Wilwood Dynalite Single Front Brake Conversion by datsunrides
Published 2007 Updated 2016
Well, I finally got around to finishing my front brake conversion to all Wildwood components. This is meant more as an update to the stock brakes than a "performance" upgrade, but performance should be better than stock. My main reason to update was cost and the desire to keep the 14" wheels. The 4 piston conversions need a 15" wheel, if I recall correctly. The stock components are still available but are becoming quite expensive and are heavy. The Wilwood stuff is readily available, light weight and reasonably priced. Anyways, here is how I chose to do mine. I will start assuming everything is disassembled and ready to be put back together. First you will need to modify the dust shield, if you choose to retain it. You will need to cut the center "hub" off and cut some of the sides for clearance for the relocated caliper bracket.
Then you can mount the shield to the spindle. Note: I had to put a couple of shim washers behind this to align the caliper over the rotor. Your results may vary! Smile
Next comes the modified stock caliper bracket. I was hoping to just make a new bracket, but a flat bracket would have interferred with the rotor mounting bolts and the offset of the stock bracket put the caliper pretty close to centered on the rotor. To modify the bracket, I had to cut off the stock caliper mounting lugs (threaded bung) and weld a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate to the original bracket. I do have a template that will get you close to matching the contour and has the holes marked for the caliper. I then welded some nuts to the bracket for the new caliper to bolt to.
Next comes the installation of the rotor and hub assembly. For this, I had to modify a stock Wilwood hat to fit both the Roadster hub size (2.9") and lug bolt circle, as there was nothing available that had the right offset, center bore size and lug pattern. I had a machine shop modify the hat to work with the Roadster hub. I then mounted the rotor to the hat and this assembly to the hub just like the stock rotor, to the back of the hub. Then install this to the spindle. (new bearings and seals would be a good idea)
Next, bolt up the caliper and check clearances.
I had to grind down my caliper slightly for wheel clearance and relocate the wheel weights as the caliper is a snug fit inside the wheel. My wheels actually have a slight taper from the inside of the rim to the center. A different wheel I had around did not have a clearance issue, so be sure to double check everything.
If people are interested, I will post the part #'s and other info (bolt sizes-lengths, brake fittings, etc..) I hope this gives another option for updating our brakes.
The 4 piston conversion I was referring to was using the Wilwood 4 piston caliper, not the Volvo. I did not weight the components but using my calibrated elbow, I would say that the rotor, hat, and caliper weight about the same as the stock rotor. So the weight savings would be the weight of 2 calipers, which are pretty heavy. As far as cost, here are the part #'s and the price I paid. All items were purchased from Summit Racing.
- Rotor Hat- WIL-170-8405 $125.39 (X2)
- Rotor- WIL-160-0201 $79.95 (X2)
- Caliper- WIL-120-4062 $92.95 (X2)
- Rotor Bolts- WIL-230-8390 $16.69 (X2)
- Brake Pads- WIL-15E-6083K $51.95
- SS Brake Hose- EAR-63010122ERL $12.88 (X2)
- Npt to -3 adapter- EAR-962203ERL $8.69 (X2)
- 3/8" to -3 adapter- EAR-989543ERL $4.69 (X2)
A couple of notes, the pads are available in a variety of different compounds. The number I provided was the one recommended for street use. You also will need to include the price to have the hat machined. I had a machine shop do this work and was charged $50.00 each.
Mark