Studs in place of bolts
Various Authors-"mraitch, JT68, mack367, curtis"
This came from a discussion regarding using studs in place of bolts for the engine mounts. The studs make it much easier to align the engine motor mounts when installing the engine. Forum Discussion
Curtis asked about using a capture nut on the backside.
JT responded.
"I never have, but you certainly could if you can get to it. just one drop of red loctite in the captive nut and it won't really try to turn. Loctite is nice since you can always remove it easily (w/heat). Or if you have a cool socket head set screw stud like Nick showed, just put an allen wrench in it. If you use new fasteners you can spin the nut on with fingers and then just final tighten with a wrench. It certainly won't loosen when tight.
There are lots of other places on roadsters when a stud+nut is more elegant than a bolt. Here are just a few:
Starter to bell housing as mentioned- (just one) I typically use a bolt in the second spot which makes removing the starter easier when you need to.
Next time you hang a door, put a couple 1/4-28 studs in the door jamb plates to temporarily support the door while you add all those bolts. Way easier to spin on a nut. Chase the captive plate threads first with a 1/4-28 tap so the stud will come back out easily. Replace the stud when installing the last few bolts.
Rear transmission mount on a 5-speed is a great place for stud/nut. I've seen SOOO many striped 5-speed rear extension housings.. no more of that.
Ground strap to frame and also negative battery cable to frame. (you don't have to try to hold things perfectly in position while starting a bolt) Just drop them on the stud and pop on a nut. (1/4-28 too). Must admit this is stolen from some other mfg's, can't remember where I saw that? maybe Mercedes?//
If you are doing a body-off resto, you can use a few studs in the body-to-frame captive nut plates. Makes easier to get them aligned.( temporarily or permanent)
Radiator cross bar-to-body (5/16 SAE). Makes it self supporting."