DelSol radiator, Info needed ASAP

Post by **dbrick** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:11 pm

There are some old posts on this, but has anyone actually installed one? My 1600 needs a radiator, was going to put the 2000 rad in 1600 (more stock looking) and Del Sol in 2000.
Also, fans are avail too, now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/honda-ci ... dZViewItem

Ldino21 · Post by **Ldino21** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:49 pm

Most people who have the Del Sol Radiator, have it because they have done an engine swap...

First and foremost DO NOT by an aftermarket Del Sol Radiator.. I bought one for my 66 with a KA24DE and after one hundred miles it cracked. After spending $60 it cost me about $3000 to rebuild the engine. If you want to by one get an aluminum radiator.

I bought a Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator for the Honda Del Sol from Summit Racing, make sure you ask for the VTEC version which has larger hose fittings that work better for the roadster.

Good Luck

Lou Smaldino
64-1500
65-1500
66-1600
67-1600
67-2000

Post by **dbrick** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:03 pm

Most of the ones I'm seeing are aluminum.. I checked Summit, but for $340.00 it sort of negates the whole economy aspect. For that cost I can get a custom made, or get a three row rebuild from Dean for $252.00and have $80.00 left over for all new hoses.

Ldino21 · Post by **Ldino21** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:45 pm

Yes you can!!!

It all goes to what you are looking for??

Lou Smaldino

Post by **dbrick** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:53 pm

What is the advantage of the DelSol unit, other than cost. I'm guessing it can't be much more efficient than a 2000 radiator in good condition, or am I missing something? My main reason was $35.00, no chopping up the car and I'm on the road til I can find a good 2000 rad.

datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:46 am

If you are running a stock drivetrain, stick with a stock roadster radiator (but make sure it is a 3-row).

The VTEC Fluidyne unit looks real good, but it is a very tight fit. The cost of the fluidyne is about $340. From a cost perspective, the stock radiator may be a less costly option.

Also..The fluidyne will require a bit of welding and small plates on either side of the radiator (not as wide as the stock radiator) to ensure the air flow goes through the radiator (rather than being deflected to the sides).

Dan

Post by **Datrock** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:17 pm

Dave, I recently installed one of Deans 3 row radiators in a stroker, it solved the running hot issue.. It ended up costing about $400.00...don't forget the $125 core charge he adds on, plus the core must be a 2000 one, the same as what you purchase, no holes for a electric fan, or no refund... Plus the shipping costs for the radiator was $34 dollars, funny the core only cost me $14 to send... Bill

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:15 pm

The other benefit of the Honduh radiator is that it lets you run one of their OEM electric fans/shroud assemblies.

I second the opinion previously stated that if you buy the Honda radiator, get an OEM one. I went down the aftermarket road and ended up replacing mine with the Fluidyne unit. I did have to build a shroud around the radiator to keep temps in check.

My recommendation would be to just replace your stock radiator with another stock one. You don't have the cooling issues that require the Fluidyne unit and the OEM electric fan. Swapping over to an OEM Honda unit may save you $100 on the front end but how much will you spend on the back end fabricating mounts, hoses, shrouds, etc.?

Post by **dbrick** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 4:58 pm

Thanks, those are the answers I was looking for. BTW, Dean now does a 3 row 1600 rad, didn't mention the core on web catalog.
I'll check locally first, but nobody here wants to touch a 40 yr old radiator.

If that knocking noise is what I think it is, then I may have a stroker too in the future.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:59 pm

If that knocking noise is what I think it is, then I may have a stroker too in the future.

Oh no!

I hope for you sake it doesnt sound like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niHvQ-P00gA

67 1/2 1600 · Post by **67 1/2 1600** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:42 pm

Dave wrote:Oh no!

I hope for you sake it doesnt sound like this:

Ouch!!

The orange car did not sound like that?? It had a knock under weight?? or under quick acceleration. Odd. What type of noise are you getting dave? A constant knock or????

Post by **spl310** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:53 pm

Locally, a recore with a 3 row costs about $150. Don't tell them how old it is and they will be ok.

If your bottom end is knocking, I still have a complete engine in the garage....

Post by **dbrick** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:49 pm

Sounds like a bad valve tap, just "heavier". I did a fast valve adjustment in the rain, got a bit better. I set them at .017 hot, seems a little too loose. Bad news is sound about the same with the valve cover off. If it would ever stop raining, I'll get into it a bit deeer, but hurricane this weekend, so not till Sat afternoon at the earliest. Anyone ever hear of a noisey fuel pump( I hope I hope I hope)
From deep in my memory banks, I think if you short out each cylinder one at a time, the knock will change when you get to that cylinder. We will see, I'm pretty famous for buying other peoples problems, get all excited and don't check as thoroughly as I should. Funny, if I check a car for someone else, I pick apart every detail, if it's for me I tend to gloss over alot. Have to rewire the dash too, dash fire 2 owners back, but that's fun work.
http://www.311s.org/registry/1966/spl311-00546.html

Sid, I'll keep the engine in mind, but if it comes out, a stroker goes in. Is mine a 3 main or 5 main, 66 alum head chassis #00546 I'll check engine # later. On the H20 crankin r16 block, , do you use the r16 rods and then h20 or u20 pistons?
If I am 3 main, the 1500 crank stroker sounds interesting.

Post by **spl310** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:29 pm

Check to see if the fuel pump has the spacer installed. If someone put a new pump on, folks often leave off the spacer (the new pump has a thick flange which they assume means that they can chuck the spacer - not true though) Without the spacer, the pump can be self destructing. It actually is beating the pump with the lever. I would give even odds that this could be your issue. The official answer is that when you replace the pump with the new type, you need to put in longer studs. The truth of the matter is that you can just leave off the lock washer and flat washer and be good.

If you do a stroker, do the H20 thing. Cheaper and easier in the long run. 1500 cranks and rods are pretty scarce.

Denis Lane in Georgia can clue you in on the stroker. Oh, I have two 5 main blocks here if you need one to play with...

Post by **dbrick** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:32 pm

Thanks, Sid