looking for a rodster

Roadster lover · Post by **Roadster lover** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:21 am

I have begun looking for a roadsster, but don't know how much I should pay for one. Is there a guideline to go by on price?

Post by **spl310** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:36 am

You have asked one of the most nebulous questions that could have been asked! Prices range from free to $50k. (OK, that last price is for a full on restoration of a Roadster, but that has to be considered as well). I think that you should study the market. Check the club website classifieds, check collector car trader online, other on line car sales sites, Ebay and so forth. You need to decide if you want a 1500, 1600, 2000, single carb, SU carbs, Solex carbs, 2 seater, 3 seater, high windshield, low windshield, side marker lights, no side marker lights, stock, modified, 4 speed, 5 speed, full synchro, non-synchro first gear, headrests, no headrests, and so forth. That is before you get to the color question. There is a plethora of possible Roadsters out there. Take your time and save your money to buy the best, most complete, restored car that you can find. I wish I had taken that advice. I would be driving instead of clogging up a garage and driveway with yard art....

roadster lover · Post by **roadster lover** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:53 am

Like most things I didn't expect a dead on answer. Thank you for your quick response.
I was just looking for a basic guideline to help me in my journey through classified and internet sights.
I did find some info on what prices to pay but didn't know if they were up to date and true to the market.

Post by **spl310** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:20 am

I did not mean to sound caustic, so I apologize if I did. If you can narrow things down a bit with regards to what you want as well as where you are located, that will help. As a rule of thumb, project cars go for free up to about $1500 - 2000 or so. Drivers range from $2000 - $12000 or so depending on condition and model. I could start a firestorm by saying this model is more desireable than that model, but no need to go there. The most cost effective way to get into a roadster is a high windshield 1600. All other things being equal, they tend to go for a little less than a similar condition low windshield car or a 2000. The 1600 engines are plenty gutsy for most folks, and are rock solid dependable. The 2000s have more performance, but are much more pricey when engine rebuild time comes around. Most folks love the 5 speeds, but if you are just doing to drive around town, the 4 speed is fine (probably better for autocrosses, but that is another good subject for debate)

From what I have seen, a really nice driver with little to no issues generally goes for $5000 or so up. A good daily driver goes for between $3000 and $5000. West coast cars are generally less expensive than east coast cars due to their increased availability over there, but there are some bargains to be had on the east coast as well.

Are you looking for a project or a driver or a ready to show car?

roadster lover · Post by **roadster lover** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:42 am

I am looking for something nice but not necessarily a show car. I have drive both the 1600 and the 2000's and enjoyed them both. Didin't really get a chance to take them out on open stretch of highway but both had gutsy motors.
I know people put a lot of work into their roadsters and want to get the most they can for their cars, that is why I have concerns on price. Since I am a novice at these cars' values I just want to find whatever info I can.
Oh by the way I did not think your remark was caustic in any way. I realize my question was quite broad.
Thanks again

I have checked a lot of classified areas and have found cars ranging from very cheap to expensive. I guess there really is no concrete price level out there.

Minh · Post by **Minh** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 11:19 am

I suggest studying up and understanding what your buying. Get to to know the little charachteristic and nuances that pertain to each year's car from 1962-1970. This way you can decide on whcih model is suitable to your tastes.

If you can't than pick the year model than get the one with the most basic and non-swappable features that you can not screw on. Many parts are interchangle; many parts are not; some parts you may have tinker to make it fit on another; sometimes you may have to fabricate or swap from another car all together.

Each year and model have an approximate production number, so the price will dictate its rarity and cost to restore/maintain. 1967 1/2 is the rarest most sought after. Really early are rare just by age because of anti-corrosion stuff was unavailable at the time.

Get to know the costs to fix/restore and the availibility of replacement parts. This way you can see if it is fair value or determine what your aree gettting into.

Here are some sites to broaden your mind to get you started:

http://www.datsunroadster.com/ORIG_5_PA ... rallye.htm
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/info/buyers_guide.html
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/info/mod ... efault.htm
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roadster lover · Post by **roadster lover** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 1:43 pm

I know some of the things that are important to me. I guess I am looking for some satisfaction in pricing them so I know what is fair.
You have three roadsters I am guessing, so how much do you think they are worth? I hope that isn't too personal a question.
I know you are not selling but let say you were how much would you ask.

Russell Roach · Post by **Russell Roach** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 7:55 pm

If You would like Roadster LoverI can email you some pics of a roadster I know is priced right. I have struggled with putting it up for sale

I have just come to the realization I love racing these cars more than restoring them. I have a 67 low windshield that I am selling it is a surviver that is an original car in unrestored very nice shape. Let me know if you would like photos.

Russell

311TONY423 · Post by **311TONY423** » Thu Jul 24, 2003 8:31 pm

CONSIDER THIS: THE PARTS FOR THE 1600 ARE MORE PLENTIFUL AND LESS EXPENSIVE. TIMING CHAINS AND GEARS FOR THE 2000 ARE RUNNING ABOUT $1400.00. ASK YOURSELF, OR BETTER YET, SEE IF YOU CAN GET A CHANCE TO DRIVE A 1600. IF YOUR HAPPY WITH THAT, CONSIDER 1600. YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE WHAT THE PARTS COST WHEN REBUILDING A 2000 ENGINE. I LIKE THE STYLE OF THE MODELS PRIOR TO 1968 WITH THE LOW WINDSHIELD. THE DASH IS MORE NASTALGIC. IF YOU ARE A TALL PERSON, GET A 1968 OR LATER. IT'LL HAVE A TALLER WINDSHIELD. I'D SAY THAT IF YOU ARE PATIENT FOR THE RIGHT DEAL, YOU'D PAY ABOUT $3000 - $5000 FOR ONE THAT WOULD BE CONSIDERED A DAILY DRIVER. IF YOU ARE CONSIDERING A 2000, TAKE OFF THE VALVE COVER AND THE COVER ABOVE THE WATERPUMP TO EXAMINE THE CAMSHAFT, ROCKERS, TIMING CHAINS, AND PARTICULARLY THE "L" BRACKET DIRECTLY BELOW THE UPPER TIMING GEAR. IF IT'S BEEN CHEWED UP BY A LOOSE CHAIN, OR FRACTURED (READY TO SNAP OFF) BE WARNED THAT IT'LL NEED ATTENTION SOON. I ENJOY MY 2000, BUT I'D NOT OPPOSED TO OWNING A 1600 EITHER. PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT THESE ENGINES ARE TOUGH, AND NOT AS HARD TO MAINTAIN AS THEIR EUROPEAN COUNTERPARTS. YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THE RIGHT SPORTS CAR

PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT YOU GET, WE'D BE INTERESTED TO KNOW.

Post by **spl310** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 9:57 am

Tony is right on. I reread the post and I think that you were asking me to price my cars. That is a loaded question! I am not actively looking to sell mine (but I do have a potential buyer for one....), so I really would not feel comfortable throwing out prices.

If you drive a 1600 and decide you want more power, keep in mind that an H20 from a forklift can be installed boosting the car to a 2000 pushod motor...

roadster lover · Post by **roadster lover** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 10:52 am

Thank you both for your responses. I am actively looking but being patient at the same time.
Judging from what you and otheres have said I think the 1600 is more in my ballpark. I have driven both and probably wouldn't notice any difference unless I was out on the open road somewhere.
Pardon me if I ask for what exactly certain terms might mean or if I ask a question that may be toopersonal, but I am trrying to get as much information as possible to help me through this journey of Roadster ownership.
When you say "daily driver" how much of a car is that. I have heard people use percenategs to describe their cars. Saying it is 85% restored and such. When you talk of a daily driver what percentage might that fit in?
If I am looking to pay between 3000-5000 and it is a daily driver how much work should I expect to do?
If someone is selling for more maybe 7000-8000 what should I expect?
Please if these questions are stupid don't hesitate to tell me so.
Thank you again

Post by **spl310** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 11:27 am

None of your questions are stupid. I think that everyone recognizes that you are doing your homework.

For $7000 to $8000, I would expect a roadster that needs nothing. Since the cars are all thirty to forty something years old, I would expect some of the patina of age to show through even at that price, but I would not expect that anything needed replacing. For the $3000 - $5000 price, I would anticipate some refinishing needed (most likely interior bits) and perhaps a good cleaning.

I don't use percentages in describing cars too often, but will give it a shot. A $3000 - $5000 car should be at least 70% or more. A $7000 - $8000 car should be 90% or so in my opinion.

The only 100% cars are fresh from restoration and their price will reflect it....

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 11:42 am

I could say that my car (69 2000) is about 75% restored. I have done the engine, the suspension the bodywork and some of the interior. I have built the car to be a racable daily driver, someday it will have paint on it. I think I am into the car about $5000 including buying it. I have not done a frame off, but I have replaced many parts with high performance ones. The only parts that are hard to get are the timing gears. The chains are easy to find, even at Napa Autoparts. The tensioners are harder to find, but they can be reused as long as they aren't torn up. The U20 is a superb engine, I think too many people fear the cost of a rebuild on one. The biggest cost is the gears, and as long as you change the chains before they stretch horribly, the gears could last a very very long time.
Just my $.02

Will

roadster lover · Post by **roadster lover** » Sat Jul 26, 2003 11:13 am

Ok one more silly question.
How do you know if a car is a solex car.
Is that something that a lot of people did afterward with all the solex equipment or was it something Datsun did too.
Are the solex cars worth more or better.
I told you I had stupid questions.
Thanks

311TONY423 · Post by **311TONY423** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 12:29 am

Hey! I saw a sweet '66 1600 on ebay, you might check it out! looks real nice. It's in Texas.

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