oils , fluids...etc

[roadsterdude]

Hello Everyone,

Im planning on changing the fluids on the roaster..
Im wondering what type of oil and tranny fluids everyone recommends..

Im thinking of going synthetic also..any thoughts on synthetics..??

Thanks for the info,

Raul

[SLOroadster]

Synthetic is the way to go. I run Redline MT90 in the transmission, I will be running Redline motor oil with the next oil change, in the rear diff, the I am told the Redline gear lube is also good unless you have an LSD then it is too slipery and the LSD won't lock. I also happen to be a redline dealer. Synthetic costs more, but I think its worth it seeing as how parts for our cars are becoming hard to find and synthetic seems to make things last longer.
See ya at Shasta,

Will

[Minh]

I use ProSyn for the brake fluid. It is DOT 3 and 4 compatible.

The ProSyn exceeds both DOT 3 and 4 specs. It has a much higher temp rating. The best thing about you can pour it into your existing DOT 3 or 4 and not have to drain out the old stuff. (Of course if the old fluid so old it's become black - drain it).

The engine crankcase oil can really use the synthetics.

I would also highly recommend a really good filter. It will really prolongs the oil's protective viscosity. Oil viscosity does not ever break down. It just seems that way because what actually happens is that buildup and muck counters the viscosity at micro particle level. (Imagine murky/muddy water)

If you were to drain the oil pan and then strain that oil through a really good paper fiber filtration what would eventually come out is the same exact oil that you poured from the bottle. I am not kidding.

[Datzoom]

While the viscosity and the lubrication qualities of an oil does not break down very quickly; the limiting factor for engine oils is the detergent lifespan. Detergents are used in all motor oils to cleanse and break down crank-case deposits. They also keep the oil from turning dangerously corrosive (acid) as the oil is subjected to use. One cannot simply micro-filtrate used motor oil to regain the chemical qualities of fresh motor oil. The changes occur at the most basic, molecular level.
I believe in the use of synthetic oils and swear by Redline products. I still change synthetics at 4000 mile intervals as they use the same detergents as dino. While they retain there lubricant qualities longer (to ~8000 miles) than conventional oils; they still become increasing acidic and lose there ability to cleanse engine components. Sorry about the rambling, a friend of mine develops detergents for Chevron and frequently talks about the subject...

Dan
67.5 2000's

[Minh]

My co-worker swears on a particular high temp grease. I forget name and he is on vacation... I get the manufacturer's name when he returns.

Dan... does the lifespan of the detergent far exceeds the prescribed 3/month, 3,000 miles? I am guessing around at 6 month, 6,000 miles if properly filtered.

[Datzoom]

Minh,

As for oil detergent lifespan, it is somewhat variable. Most often it is expressed as the TBN (total base number). This is a measure of the alkalinity of a oil. This represents an oils ability to counteract acids that are produced as a by-product of combustion. Most motor oils carry a TBN of 6-8 which equates to a detergent lifespan of about 3-4000 miles; hence most oil manufacturers' recommended oil change interval of 3k miles. Oils with higher TBN have longer lasting detergent cycles and therefore the oil change interval can be extended.

As for filters the usually have a lifespan of 5-6k miles. If running a quality synthetic like redline or AMSOIL which both have high TBN it is possible to change the filter while leaving the oil in the crankcase, only replacing the oil lost in the filter change process.


Dan

[roadsterdude]

thanks for all that replied...

So whats a good brand of oil filter for our roadsters...

And which synthetic should I use..

and which weight?

[Guest]

thanks for all that replied...

So whats a good brand of oil filter for our roadsters...

And which synthetic should I use..

and which weight?

A really good oil filter is not gonna be cheap. K&N has a pricy nice dual external setup. Mike Kerr has (I don't know where he get's it) a manufactured screw-on adaptor where your oil filter goes. (At the same time you can setup an oil cooler)

I'm in the midst of patenting an oil filter that works 500x better and only pennies to change the filter. (Don't hold your breath)

As far as over the counter filters go I can only suggest based on what I know. Do not use Fram they don't filter anything. Cost wise on a regular intervals a good one would be Wix or Napa. They are the same; Wix manufactures both filters. www.rockauto.com has them listed at $4.45. Print the screen somehow and take to Kragen. They will price match.

K&N makes a screw on type a but it's pricer than Wix.

However ask around if someone knows better.

I am currently adding the high mileage 10W-40 formula oil for daily driver in the crankcase until I find something or someone suggests better.

I'm considering going to heavier weight after I tweek the oil pump for more pressure.

[Minh]

That was me... I timed out somehow...

[Chris Coker]

I've been using Amsoil 20W-50 for the past three seasons in my race car. This was my first experience with synthetics, and I'm convinced in the advantages of synthetics, and that not all synthetics are created alike. I have oil samples tested on a regular basis, and use that to tell me when to change the oil, or if there is abnormal wear taking place inside the engine.

In my street car, I don't put that many miles on it, but I still change the oil once a year. That car has only had Valvoline non-synthetic since new. When I lived in Texas, I'd use 10W-40 in the winter, and 20W-50 in the summer. Since I only drive the car in the summer here in Michigan, I use 20W-50.

I use enough Amsoil products that I became a dealer. Saves me money in the long run. But I really like Redline MTL and MT-90 for transmissions.

Happy Roadstering,
Chris Coker

http://www.risensonracing.com
'69 SPL-311
'66 SPL-311 SCCA GP Racer

[Mr Camouflage]

Ok. so what grade of oil should you put in the diff.

I have a csp 311, like a roadster - with a roof.

(I read 90w GL5 for a diff, but that was for a Z diff).