Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Think I got lucky, this seems to be the worst of them, think I'll stick with OEM brakes.

Other than the 4 bolts, what's the best way to separate the hub from the rotor. Edit... Nevermind, pickle fork did the trick.

I had mine resleeved with stainless, won't have to worry about them rusting. You can buy the Datsun brake lines but new stainless ones are very reasonable. Two or three vendors have them. There's a set on ebay from datsundon, Rising Sun Racing.

Also, re brakes, must have speed bleeders, so that you can get all the air out , and bleed the brakes easily, and often enough. IMHO.
Let's make it "Fall Equinox Bleed Your Brakes" time
Linda
Bossbob asked what else to do while there, I think the stainless brake hose lines are great also. Don't get stuck with failing rubber hoses...

Thanks for all the help, I have a couple more question.

1. Looks like I took the hub and rotor apart for nothing, I'll have to put it back together to get the rotors turned. So, what is the torque rating for the bolts and should I use locktite on them.

2. I took the calipers to the wire wheel and got them as clean as I could, I like the aluminum look but they could look better, do you guys paint them?

3. Should I be able to install the piston into the caliper without the seal, seems to not want to go on the pin, is there some sort of alignment for it?

4. I've decided to order new stainless steel hard lines for the calipers, but have already ordered rubber lines from the frame to the caliper so, it is what it is. All other parts bearings, races, caliper kits, hard lines, hoses, etc. should be in this week, and I hope to complete this part of the car. I'm sure there will more questions to follow. Then hopefully the maiden voyage around the block.

Thanks again for all the help, I love this site and feel like I'm getting to know some of you, and I'm trying to give some feedback to others as I move through the process of learning how to rebuild this car.

By the way, I've also identified that I need lower ball joints as well.............

Ugh, ball joints, a bit of a PITA. But it's better than doing the spindles.

Use some brake caliper paint, works great.

The pin should line up and go in but the trickiest is getting the piston seal to feed into the bore. Really needs some persuasion and a vice will come in handy.

Don't recall the torque rating off hand but I think it's in the Wiki. I've seen no mention of locktite being used.
I painted my calipers on both cars. A soft brass wheel will make 'em shine and a coat or two of clear will keep them looking good and easier to clean if you like the metal look. Of course there are colors.
Yes, you should be able to slide the piston into the bore without the seal on it.
If you can't, chance are the pin is bent (very easy to do). There are writeups on how to check and how to straighten the pins if needed.

Now that you have the system all apart. Consider how you'll bleed it. Linda often advocates for speed bleeders and they're pretty foolproof. There are power bleeders, vacuum bleeders and the old fashioned way of pump and release with a helper. For myself, if I had the entire front braking system apart, I'd opt for a power bleeder.
Dan

Thanks for all the info...............

One step forward, two steps back.

Ordered new bearings and they don't fit. same part # that came off, but seem to be .005 off on the inner bearing. Also, seals I bought are too large??? Seal part # is 550225, bearings are 30206. Outer bearings seem to fit good.

What do I do, I'm hoping to have the front end back together this weekend.

Here is link to Tech Wiki Parts Interchange page. See info on bearings:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... nterchange

Linda

And scroll down further to seals.

Seals

Howdy - When I went to grab my spare pair of front seals, I found one empty box - they were from NAPA, but we no longer have a local store -I could not find anyone to cross the 550226 (CR#) to anything that remotely looked correct....however the NAPA seal crossed to a National # 224820 at Advance auto parts. (advance SKU#3207539). I ordered the seal and it does indeed fit, for sure on a 69 and a 70, this should fit all years.

I was just reading another link from here the other night on the tight bearings. The person used an icepack to cool the spindle and warmed the bearings in the sun (or a low heat oven would probably work too) and they slid right together. Be sure they go on all the way.
Rustbucket

I have to say this is why I bought both the front bearings, rear bearings and seals from known roadster vendors. Didn't want to take any chances with fit.

I got a second set of bearings, they're still a little tight but they do go on. Got the correct seals, stainless lines, caliper kit, rotors are being machined. So, with any luck I'll have breaks by the end of the weekend.

1. Caliper kit came with 4 metal rings that I didn't have on the originals, I'm guessing they are retainer rings for the dust seals.

2. Still a little confused on the pistons sliding into the caliper, the pins are straight, but I would think that with out a seal on the piston it should slide in easily which none of them do. So, unless you guys and Linda suggest otherwise, I'm going to put it all together with lube and press the pistons in with probably a C clamp or vise.

3. The red packet, is that lube or anti squeek.


I'll let you all know how it goes............

The piston doesn't just slide on the pin, you have use a bit of pressure. Just be careful so you don't bend it.

I did this a while back and as I recall you have to evenly press everything back together. The seal kit has some red grease,
that you use.
Here is my learning curve with this project:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... d3f2ec0b20
Linda