Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Maybe test a few things in order so as to use a process of elimination. Reconnect everything after each step.
1.Test to be sure there is voltage at the coil: with ignition on (run), there should be battery voltage (12V) at the + wire coming into the coil
2.Test the coil to make sure it is okay: disconnect all wires, put volt meter on ohms, there should be 6000 to 10000 ohms between + post and high voltage out (where the wire goes to the dist) see link
3.Test the condenser: disconnect condenser follow these instructions - link
4.Test for actual spark: pull one plug, keep wire connected, touch against block and turn engine over. Spark?
These four steps should at least tell you where you can trouble shoot by process of elimination.
If 1 = no, then fix electrical, if 2 = no then replace coil, if 3 = no replace condenser, if 4 = no, but other yes, then trouble shoot distributor

Other things to check: are plugs gapped okay, is there a good connection between plug wires and plug (just had this on another members car) should have a nice snap on feel, is inside of distributor clean, how do points look? All tell tail signs.

Wiring charts here

Rustbucket

My best guess for ignition switch wires:
Black is hot, black w/ white to coil +, blue accessory, black w/ yellow start
to test switch: set your voltmeter to ohms setting
move the switch to the first clockwise position, one at a time see if any pins connect. Write them down
repeat for each key position. If there is a common pin to acc and run it is probably the hot (black pin)
If there are two different sets connected on Start the set of two pins is the actual start, the others are for Run
there are probably three that connect on Run position.
Rustbucket

Lots of helpful stuff in the wiki!

http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1969-70%20Dats ... 20rev9.pdf

I had pulled the valve cover gasket to inspect the head and hence broke the seal, so it now leaks like a sieve.

Good news is that after a little struggle and coughing, I got it running. Once the oil started leaking it started smoking, so I'll get a new v/c gasket and start the fine tuning.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5bXMq53SDU

I used an electric pump and stand alone gas can to start it. Now I have to address the fuel system, the tank smells like varnish. So, what is the best way to clean the system.

Alright!!
Try to remove the drain plug in the gas tank. If it comes out, and you dont see any pin holes, a gallon of acetone should/will break down the varnish.

bossbob wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 11:24 amNow I have to address the fuel system, the tank smells like varnish. So, what is the best way to clean the system?

pebbles wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 12:17 pmTry to remove the drain plug in the gas tank. If it comes out, and you dont see any pin holes, a gallon of acetone should/will break down the varnish.

If that doesn't work or appears good enough, pull the tank and take it to radiator shop that will boil it out. The Premium option is to take it to a Gas Tank Renu dealer. I believe Linda used the one in Bellflower:

https://www.gastankrenu.com/

The gas tank renue is too expensive IMO for what you get. It's like $500 - I had it done on my 69. You can get a good rad shop to fix up an old tank to like new condition for about half that.

I just had it done for $300. Probably overkill, but it's one thing I won't worry about again. It was just a suggestion if cleaning with acetone, etc. didn't work.

It is more expensive these days than it used to be, BUT, you get a lifetime warranty which beats having to find a new tank , get it welded, and cleaned up, as needed. They paint the outside too with this rubberized type paint which protects it. I think they are independent franchises so price could be better in some areas.
Linda

jamesw wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:48 pm The only thing past the points is the distributor cap and rotor. And the plug wires of course.

There's a little wire from the points that's wrapped in black cotton. Make sure it's not broken inside the insulation or disconnected.

Also there is a little ground wire from the breaker plate to the distributor body. there is always the Evil Condenser, which can be disconnected to test. Basically, if you have 12v to the coil + and then ground the coil -, it will spark when you remove the wire from ground. This is what the points do, ground the coil to charge it and unground it to fire it. start with that, then hook up things til it stops sparking, that's the problem.

When I hooked up the electric fuel pump directly to the carbs I had fuel pouring out of the over flow tubes, so I'm guessing the floats might be stuck, I plan on looking into that soon.

What should I be looking for other than floats that will allow the fuel to pass through the over flow or do you think the electric pump is just too much pressure for the system.

Carbs need about 3-4lbs, over 6-7lbs may overcome the float valve. Put a pressure gauge on it to see. I have one that puts out 3.5lbs consistently.

Thanks, I got to work on it yesterday. Had to drop the gas tank to clear a clogged line, once I had all the lines cleared and cleaned the carbs a bit I got it running on it's own. Sounds pretty good, it wants to idle kinda high 1500 rpms or so. I think the next project will be to clean and lubricate the throttle linkage and all the cables. It ran for over an hour in the driveway with no problems.