DELETED

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:52 pm

DELETED

Post by **spl310** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:54 pm

I got one at my local ACE hardware store. Cheap too!

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:10 pm

DELETED

Minh · Post by **Minh** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:46 pm

Heh... I got mine at True Value in Stainless.

Whatever you buy, just make sure the thread spacing is the same...

Post by **spl310** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:00 pm

It has been long enough that I don't recall. It also depends on which alternator mount that you have. The 1600 alternator mounts (right side) use a smaller bolt than the 2000 alternator mounts (right side) due to the design. The 2000 had the weight supported by a single lug. As I recall, it was the longest one that they stocked. I will try to figure out what length it is. As far as the thread, just buy the matching nut and washers and it can be whatever you want. I went with standard threads.

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:27 pm

DELETED

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:48 pm

DELETED

67 1/2 1600 · Post by **67 1/2 1600** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:58 am

Do you still need the long bolt? I have a spare

.

Joaquin

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 1:15 am

I gotta quick and easy fix, its called "ALL THREAD" and double nuts on each end.

Will

Post by **spl310** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 6:57 am

That is what Brian Hollands used on his. As I recall, he is having problems with it snapping. A regular bolt should be easy to source. I have not measured (sorry Alvin!), but I got mine at Ace Hardware. Another thing to keep in mind - the later version r/h mount used a larger bolt than the early 1600s. The single mount with the triangular support apparently puts more shear on the bolt than the older mount. Or so I have been led to believe...

oilleak · Post by **oilleak** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 9:38 pm

Yes, threaded does fail as an alternator mount. the caveat is that the failures occur at 7000+ RPM while autocrossing. Prior to thrashing my car that hard, the threaded rod solution lasted for more than a decade. I still like it, just not strong enough to handle racing. How I did mine is on my web site http://web.tampabay.rr.com/oilleak/
Best to make some sort of bushing for the ID of the alternator so the treads of the rod don't chew up the alternator pivot/ear/thing/ whatever...

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:15 pm

I'm using all-thread right now, but yes I do agree that it is not strong enough for full race use. Mine hasn't broken yet (but I won't hold my breath after looking at the pile of broken parts in my car...) It does work in a pinch however.

Will

dynaguy · Post by **dynaguy** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:46 pm

Most locally available threaded rod is, at best, a grade 2 spec. Not very good stuff. If you ask for B-7 threaded rod, and it is available, you are getting at least a grade 5 spec. This should hold up for the alternator bolt. This what I used for my alternator relocation pivot. Just a little info from the bolt guy. Pat Mahoney '69 2000 scattered about the garage

Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

DELETED

Long bolt for alternator

threaded rod