Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Great news

I have the issue of no (or occasional) brake lights. Have replacement brake light switch and snubber in hand.

Anyone have a photo of where that rubber snubber goes? My '68 has never to my knowledge had a snubber installed.

Thanks.

Early Christmas here today! after waiting for a month, my brake parts have arrived. NOTOPTOY reminded me in an earlier post to get a firewall brace as well and I included it in my order. Its been a long time since I installed one and I cant find a tutorial in the tech wiki. Anyone got a link?If I remember, it was a bit of a pain on my 68 2000 but that was YEARS ago.

Firewall brace turned out to be pretty simple. Not sure why I recalled it being such a pain last time. BUT, after waiting better than a month for parts because of my remote location, I realized that I don't know which brake line goes to the front reservoir and which goes to the rear. I thought I had taken a picture but cannot find it in my gallery. Adding to the confusion is the fact that because the old master cylinder was metric, I had to cut off the old brake line flares and replace the metric fittings with SAE fittings and then reflare the lines. All of that reconfiguring has moved the brake line locations around just enough that I can no longer tell which goes where with just a visual inspection. Can some one tell me which line is which in relation to where the lines run to the junction on the passenger side of the firewall. One line runs over and connects to the side of the junction, the other to the top of the junction.

Glad to hear you got your parts, finally. Check out the link below. Good write up and pictures.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23650
The line from the R reservoir should go to the rear axle where there is a T.
The line from the F reservoir should go into the top of the block. The line on the right side of the block as you are looking at it will go to the driver side front, the line on the Left side of the block as you are looking at it will go to the passenger front.

Master cylinder from Mike Young at Datsun Sports has been installed and has solved my ongoing brake problem. Many thanks to Mike for going above and beyond in helping me get parts to my remote location and being patient and informative with all my many inquiries. Also, thanks to all the members that helped with suggestions and info on this project and several others. Its great to have the car back on the road. Heres a pic of the car at the boat launch near my house. Our recent full moon overlooking the Sea of Cortes.

Linda wrote: ↑Wed May 20, 2020 9:53 pm Here is a nice video someone posted on the Tech Wiki about the Datsun 510 master, including the adapter and push rod info.
picture is worth a 1000 words. Never knew this existed.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... rakeMaster
And the original Karl Payne info on the 510:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... lMasterAlt

Linda

I was able to use the OE push rod with the following 68-73 510 MC:
Raybestos 800-1252, MC39561 $99 at Z CarDepot.
The MC did not come with a push rod. As mentioned in the video I did install the OE push rod using the new 510 snap ring. This took a bit of very fine adjustment on the OE washer. It has a very slight cup profile in the center. I noticed when installing the snap ring that it touches the outer circle edge of the cup so it does not lay 100% flat, and it was not completely seated on one side. With a screw driver I lightly tapped around the outer edge of the cup circumference then polished both surfaces of the washer with the Dremmel. Flattening just that bit of the cup profile caused the diameter of the washer to now be larger, enough to make it too tight to fit in it's position. With a very fine grit on the Dremmel I went around the circumference several times, testing as I went along until it would fit correctly. This is for a project restoration and I cannot test drive with the new MC at this time but the fit seems just like OE (reused OE reservoirs as the too tall rear brake 510 one will not clear the hood as others have mentioned). If there is an easier approach to an reasonably priced master, I'd still be curious to hear about it).

By when hard braking I think your saying going fast and need to stop quick ?
Sounds as if you have good lite speed braking
This sounds like classic glazed rotors and or lite rust ,corrosion on pads or rotors from sitting also rotors not parallel ( turning may not be an option as they would be under limits )
On mine I use a air wizzer with the grit in the flex fingers pads it litely will remove the glaze . Drums can do the same although they are known for a corroded area where the shoe was and held moisture