Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

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Mainer311
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by Mainer311 »

Munxcub wrote:Is your inline fuel filter after the fuel pump?
There's actually 2. One before the pump, and one after. That's how it was when I bought it, and not knowing any better, that's how I kept it (but with new filters of course). Easily changed though. The original fuel filter before the pump was filled with sand...

Guys, I haven't been on here in a long time. The engine is back in the car, and filled with all fluids. The driveline is back together, and the only thing remaining on the to-do list before firing it up is to fill the transmission with oil, and hook up the two grounds to the starter/engine block.

Once it moves on it's own power, I'm immediately jumping over to checking everything out on the brakes. I also picked up a bunch of new wheel studs and lug nuts for the Appliance wheels. I have a right front wheel that leaks like a sieve (but the other 3 don't leak at all). Soapy water test resulted in leaking beads on both sides of the tire. Need to have a tire service place check it out.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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dbrick
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by dbrick »

Good to see you back.

Dave Brisco

Take my advice, I'm not using it"

66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
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Mainer311
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

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I haven't posted in here in a while. I jump around between here, diyAudio and my Xterra off-road clubs.

Anyways, the car has been running great all summer. The recurve really cleared things up for me! Lately I've been tinkering around here and there and fixing/upgrading as I get time.

Replaced the float bowl gaskets (finally):
Image

New rubber and lug nuts all around!
Image

New mirrors in the "JDM" location:
Image

Also, a quick question: I was running conventional 15W-40 for the break-in (with some zinc additive) and a few weekends ago I switched to 20W-50. The cars feels much more sluggish now with the heavier weight oil, when I didn't think it would make much of a difference. Do you guys suggest going back to the 15W-40?
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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dbrick
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by dbrick »

I really can't see it making that much difference, anything else change?

Dave Brisco

Take my advice, I'm not using it"

66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
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Mainer311
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Location: Methuen, MA, USA

Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by Mainer311 »

dbrick wrote:I really can't see it making that much difference, anything else change?
Oil pressure stays much higher during idle, which seems normal with the heavier weight. I also noticed that when I was filling it back up with the 20W-50, the oil was barely draining out of the head. The entire valve cover filled with oil and I had to wait for it to sink down to the oil pan.

I think next oil change I'm going to revert back to the 10W-40 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic oil with high zinc.

My hood also keeps popping open by itself on bumpy roads. I adjusted it a little, and now it keeps getting stuck closed. :x
I removed the grill to refinish it, and will adjust the hood bolts with the grill off like I've seen people do on here. Hopefully that clears it up.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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pebbles
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by pebbles »

68 owners manual from the wiki suggests 20 wt.
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/OM1968DatsunSportsSML.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Im running strait 30 in an "older" engine and its working well.
20/50 imo seems a bit heavy.

Is there any way you can get someone to pull the release cable while you drop (gently) the pin in the hole, to ensure that there is no interference?
David




"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
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spl310
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread

Post by spl310 »

After the oil has drained down, pull the valve cover and check to see if there is trash in the drain hole.
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little

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