1966 1600 Cannot get the blasted thermo housing off!!

Z3BigDaddy · Post by **Z3BigDaddy** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 8:35 pm

I'm trying to be Mr NiceGuy here, and have been dousing with PB Blaster and have the heavy "plastic" hammer out but it will not budge. I've tried to pound a putty knife blade in b/w the housing and motor to no avail.... Next step will be the RBFH and maybe a torch? Anyone every use a puller of some sort perhaps....

Signed,

Overheated in Oregon

Post by **S Allen** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:47 pm

It may take several days to a week to get the darn thing off in one piece. That was a really poor design with the dis-similar metals. Patience is a true virtue when it comes to getting the tower off without breaking it. You can put a couple of nuts on the studs so you can wack it with a hammer and not bugger up the threads. I have been successfull 5 out of 5 times but do not expect it to come off in even a couple of hours. Those things can literally be welded to each other.

Take it easy or you will be asking for a replacement real soon! I know this is not much help right now but use plenty of anti-sieze compound on it when you put it back together. That makes it easier to take apart later on. Patience my man!

Steve

Z3BigDaddy · Post by **Z3BigDaddy** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 11:10 pm

Well I'm into day three so I will continue to be patient.............

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 11:36 pm

Try drilling small holes (1/16") in a couple of places on each "stud cavity" and injecting your preffered brand of penatrating lube into the holes.After letting them soak for a bit,start tapping the sides to loosen the gunk in there.(sometimes it does it right away,most often a couple of applications.)Once you get it off you can close off the holes with a 2 part epoxy.Most likely once you do get it off you will probably find the corrosion has not only eaten the housing,but the studs too.In either case,like steve said,anti seize is a good idea and also use a good teflon thread sealant on the threads that go into the head to prevent water from getting into that area in the first place!FYI, when I did mine the studs (what was left of them) were froze in the head so I had to drill them out and install heli-coils(very easy to do)

Minh · Post by **Minh** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 12:42 am

Anyone ever try using a air compressor, 6-point impact socket, and a Thunder Gun?

The Thunder Gun will unbolt any nur or twist off the stud like twist-off-cap on a beer bottle.

ambradley · Post by **ambradley** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 10:15 am

Have you tried double-nutting the studs and removing them? Then you could whack the housing pretty hard and it should pop completely off.

Z3BigDaddy · Post by **Z3BigDaddy** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 11:32 am

If I do the double nutter thing... Then I just back it out lefty loosee rightee tightee? No reverse threads or anything?

Post by **S Allen** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 2:55 pm

Yes, they are standard-righty tighty and lefty lossey. The studs are most likey so corroded they may snap off. No biggie as it should bust some of the corrosion loose. I had heard of the small drill bit trick but never had to try it. They are quite simply a pain in the backside to get off. Did you break it yet?

Steve

ambradley · Post by **ambradley** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:07 pm

By double nutting, I mean put one nut on but don't tighten it down, then put another nut on after it and tighten the two nuts together, then loosen using the bottom nut. If you're lucky this will act like a bolt head and will let you remove the studs. If unlucky it might not turn the studs at all, or you might break the studs off part-way.

I've always had luck with a screwdriver driven between the head and housing, but admittedly I haven't done that many.

Z3BigDaddy · Post by **Z3BigDaddy** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:13 pm

Did you break it yet? Kinda personal question there spiffy?? LOL Nope I haven't broke nuttin yet... But after work I'm hittin her again... With the hammer and spray and what ever else......

Daryl Smith · Post by **Daryl Smith** » Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:28 pm

I have taken Two of these things off in the last couple months.
Steps I took were:

1) drench with penetrating oil, let soak.

2) Heat with propane torch. (type plumbers use) Heat it quite a bit. making sure to hit all sides. You will have the penetrating oil bubbling out around the gasket at the bottom as well as around the bolts.

3) Whack it with the hammer while still hot. I didn't have a plastic or rubber hammer so put a 2x4 against the housing and hit that. Put the 2x4 against the bottom edge & hit it upwards as well.

4) Not loose? Repeat steps 1-3. I drenched it with the penetrating oil while it was still warm.

I got them both off with no damage. Just takes time(2-3times through above steps).

Good luck
Daryl

TR · Post by TR » Thu Sep 09, 2004 12:27 am

Being the impatient type, I removed mine with a sawzall and bought the replacement from Fairlady Products that eliminates the extra cap.

Better design and the mating surface was so corroded on the original, it probably wouldn't seal anyways...

Takes about five minutes to cut through and replace...TR

impinhigh · Post by **impinhigh** » Thu Sep 09, 2004 11:03 am

I took the "Konan" approach, clamped down hard on the top of the thread of the stud with a "vice grip" and backed out the stud from the head. The studs are toast but needed to be changed anyway.

Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

1966 1600 Cannot get the blasted thermo housing off!!

1966 1600 Cannot get the blasted thermo housing off!!

RE:Thermostat Housing

RE:Stuck Thermo Tower

66 1600 thermo housing