New Roadster Owner Seattle area...woohoo!

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Saint & Son

New Roadster Owner Seattle area...woohoo!

Post by Saint & Son »

Hey Gang,

I just picked up a 1969 1600 locally, for my son and I to have a project to work on together...he's 11 yrs. old and already regaling his posse in the 'hood with how it's his high school car...EGADS! At any rate, as you'll soon discern from my postings...I have the mechanical apptitude of a walnut. My Dad, on the other hand was a mechanical genius...perhaps some latent gene will suddenly kick in...one can wish. We picked up a 1600 (I know, I know, I'll apply the 311-????? later) for 2000.00. Mechanically pretty sound, linkage a bit vague. Painted in the blue w/ white stripes Shelby Cobra style. Small bits of cancer, at this point, nothing major. Original white interior w/ blue piping....needs serious inside work on carpets, wiring, dash panels etc. Probably a good inital project for the two of us. Two initial immediate issues:

Brake lights stay on...was able to discern that that the pedal just needs to come "up" 'bout 1mm to disengage lights.

Doors/hinges in need of attention...some bolts actuallt sheared off...how to bore out these puppies and replace them.

At any rate you'll here from me, Steve (or "Saint" to my friends, and my son Dylan. Ilook forward to "meeting" each of you and learning from you as well.

Cheers!

The Saint

PS_ I know w/ a name like "The Saint" I should be driving a Volvo P1800...who knows, someday the Roadster may have a Swedish stable mate...oohlala, wouldn't that make an interesting hybrid!
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S Allen
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RE:New Roadster Owner

Post by S Allen »

First off, welcome! I am sure you and your son will find quite a bit of quality bonding time working on the roadster. And who knows, Dad may end up buying his own. These cars are fairly simple and easy to work on. Plus you will find this group to be very helpful. Have fun!

As to the snapped off bolts-go buy some good quality drill bits say around 1/8" and get a few easy outs. Drill out the center of the bolt with the drill bit. I drill it all the way through. If you can use some heat on the brroken bolt with a propane blow torch. Heat works wonders on rusted parts. PB Blaster works well too but do not use the torch after you have used PB Balster as it is highly flammable. Tap the easy out in place and slowly try to remove the broken bit. If you snap an easy out off you are in for alot of drilling as they are made of a very hard metal. Go slow. The heat work best. Sometimes drilling the entire broken bolt and and re-tapping may be the only recourse.

The brake light switch is located right above the pedal assembly and could be sticking itself. I would pull it out and clean it up. That may do the trick. New switches are still available and a switch from a Z car will work as well.

I am sure other will have more input for you. Glad to have you and good luck with your project.

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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Minh
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Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)

Post by Minh »

If you gonna get a P1800 try your darndest for the convertible. The P1800 looks cool, but the drop top gorgeous. I have a picture of pristine british racing green convertible of my screeen saver. Ghia did a good job this model. You wil find out that Volvo P1800 restoration is remarkably higher than a Datsun Roadster's.

But, to have have a 2nd Roadster as father-son tag team rippin the twisties on a magnicently weatherd day I imagine is priceless.

As for the Brake pedal you spring mechanism might be eihter one or all.

1) Worned down metal somewhere at or around the pinion hole

2) The spring(s)s has gone limp.

3) The Master cylinder internal spring is not fully re-extending itself.
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
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SLOroadster
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Location: Napa Ca

welcome

Post by SLOroadster »

With the brakes, you might need to reajust the pedal on the master cylinder, or the switch and or both. Make sure none of the brakes actually drag. If you take your time and think as you go, datsun did a good job of designing the cars. They are simple to work on as long as you are carefull. Your best bet is to pick up the CLAYMER repair manual it is very well thought out and easy to use.

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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DatsunBucky
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Post by DatsunBucky »

Saint and son: Welcome to the family.

Step #1. Purchase Roadster.
Step #2. Register on this forum.

Wait. Both are already done. Good move! You'll find a lot of very nice, and helpful, people here. Welcome to the wacky, wonderful world of Datsun Roadsterdom.

Step #3. Here there is no such thing as a dumb question. No matter how basic it may seem to you, if you don't know the answer, or aren't sure, go ahead and ask. No one will put you down or make fun. In fact, the easier questions allow some of us to look like we actually know something! Just kidding. We won't knowingly steer you wrong.

p.s. there are a LOT more complicated cars to work on. These cars are simple to work on, even though some of the parts are above-average in cost. Me, I'm old school. I've gotten a dead roadster running with only a 2" piece of wire. Try THAT on a computerized modern wonder!
Bucky
Gary Hudson

Post by Gary Hudson »

Saint and Son,

As another new poster I can verify the helpfulness of this group, as well as the fact that even simple questions are answered patiently and without judgment. I've learned a ton in just a few short weeks of reading.

Welcome from another "new" guy.

Gary
Saint & Son

Thanks Guys!

Post by Saint & Son »

Hey,


I...um...er...WE really appreciate both the greetings AND the useful tech tips! Thanks tons! I'll try to employ your collective wisdom, towards the brake light and bolt issues. Again...THANKS!

Saint (and son)
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