Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Got my engine test stand built and ready to go. I need a little help. I'm looking for the basic wiring diagram to wire up the r16 to get it running on the stand.
Battery - ballast resistor - coil - distributer - starter, whatever's needed to get it running.

another question for you all while I got your attention. I was going throught the carbs today and noticed that one of the free-floating float's pushed in on the bottom, the other was not. Will this effect the carb?
Are the floats from the U20 and R16 interchangeable if I swap floats and float bowl tops? My U20 floats are the hinged type.

Wire diagrams http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... ngDiagrams
On the top of page 6 in these instructions is the basic wiring diagram http://www.311s.org/PDFs/InstallRoadsterEIDizzyrev6.pdf

It's alive! Wired it up. Checked the ignition for spark. and started it up on starter fluid. Yesterday I replaced the fuel lines and cranked it up on gas. It ran, but idled at 3000 rpms. The question is, the carbs or throttle were closed or at low idle, so why was it racing? I'm heading to the WIKI page after this to see what I find about carb rebuild and adjustment.

Congrats on getting her to run! However, it is impossible for it to run at 3000 rpms without having SOME source for air, so either you have a linkage problem, a carb way out of balance, or a major intake leak. Put your hand in front of each carb and compare how hard they suck and if they are equal. What happens if you put your hands close to or completely over the carb throat? If your idle adjustment screws are all the way off the stop, and your chokes are not sticking (pulling the cable drops the fuel nozzles under the carbs and moves the linkage to open the throttle plates slightly, this often sticks) disconnect your linkage at the dog bones (ball and socket rods) by rolling them off one side with a screw driver so the throttle plates can shut all the way. If it can still run, especially at high rpm you have a major intake leak... spraying carb cleaner or starter fluid will locate it.

Thanks for the tips Greg. I'll try this tomorrow. I didn't check the carbs that close when it was running. To be honest, I was shocked that it started up. I didn't want to run it too long because I hadn't added coolant yet. The new thermostat and gasket comes in tomorrow. After I get the coolant toped off, I'll put your advice to work. thanks again.

In your advice above, "spraying carb cleaner or starter fluid will locate it." where am I spaying the carb cleaner or starter fluid? In the throat or somewhere else?

You are spraying anywhere there is a possibility of an air leak, so at the gaskets between the carb and manifold, and between the manifold and block. You may also want to spray right at the throttle shafts to see if there is a leak there.

Ya, what notoptoy said! My pleasure... we're all here to help and encourage! I'm gonna guess that the linkage is sticking, but the throttle shafts often leak too. How much they are leaking will determine if they need to be rebuilt or if they can be cleaned up and run as is. That may not be clear to you right away but we can guide you, especially those who really know SU carbs. Actuate the linkage etc so you can see how it all works together, and move the choke system up and down. The nozzles stick down frequently, or the linkage doesn't move the throttle plates, which normally open slightly to hold idle and warm the car up when stone cold. There will be things to learn about balancing the air flow and using a unisyn type flow tool to check, but we'll cross that when you get there...

check the service screw, back it off a half turn or more.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... sNewSuTech" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Tests on hold - When I went to give it a try, I noticed the water pump was shot. I have it getting rebuild as we speak. In the meantime I'll check the valve clearance and the point gap.

just read the valve clearance info - will wait until after engine runs again to adjust valves after getting the engine hot.

Does anyone know how the gauge voltage regulator is wired? Which post does the yellow wire go to? Which post does the yellow green wire go to? Dash was pulled out of the car when I got it.

I need some electrical help. The proper wiring has got me stumped. I followed the wiring schematic for 1966-1967 and I'm not getting 12 volts at the ignition switch. Has anyone every noticed any errors with the wiring schematic matching the stock wiring harness? On the stock, unmodified, wiring harness, a thick black wire comes off the starter, then after a disconnect changes to a thick white wire. I pulled the wire wrap off the harness near where the ignition switch would be connected and noticed that the blue wire for the radio is tapped into the black wire, not white as depicted in the schematic.

I was able to pull 12 volts from the white wire (as described above) where it connects to the ammeter and start and run the motor but when it's all connected as described I the schematic, I don't get 12 volts at the black wire for the ignition switch.

I also don't have 2 white wires to go to the 30A fuse in the fuse block. Just a white and a black. Any thoughts from anybody?

No voltage at the ignition switch. Did some post reading. Is it possible that the ammeter went bad?

A lot has happened since my last post, or at least I think it's a lot...

I got the rebuild water pump back, buttoned up the engine on the test stand, and it ran good. Good oil pressure. Even compression across all cylinders.

So I moved back to working on the suspension. Cleaned up 4 good balls joints and ordered some rubber parts from datsunparts.com. Attached the rear and front suspension, as well as the steering.

Now I've turned my attention to the brakes. When did these parts get so expensive? Things seemed a lot cheaper in the roadster posts from 5-10 years ago. Anyway, I rebuilt the rear brake cylinders and the front calipers. Tonight I worked on bending and flaring brake lines for the calipers. I think they turned out good. Thought I'd give it a try before buying pricey replacement ones.

Wow, lookin great! Sorry I can't help on the electrical... That's why my friend Curtis redid all my wiring last year... I just don't get this stuff... I'll stick to engines and carbs!