Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I believe you want a 510 Master no later than 1970.

Dave,
Tech Wiki! Tech Wiki-->Parts ->Datsun 311 interchange
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... nterchange
Linda

RockAuto has it from Cardone

Aha -
Ok.
So, some good info here for the next guy. I looked at the interchange and saw 510 master, went and looked on Rock Auto and saw the same master as what is on my 72 510.

The reason is, that of the 4 different vendors listing 510 masters, 3 of them have the wide spaced ports which will conflict with most Solex configurations.

The Cardone Master - has a BRUTAL picture on the Rock Auto Listing, so, if you do what I did, which is assume that it is the same as the other 3 vendors masters, you will come to the same conclusion I did - which is - that it won't fit either.

HOWEVER, if you do a wider search and find specific pics of the #11-1538 - it is the master that Will posted a pic of earlier in this thread, and obviously explains why he had no conflict.

As Greg mentions, the 111538 is listed for 68, 69, 70 until 8/71 for the 510. It is still listed for the 72 as well, but the 72 has the multiple other vendors as well. The 111538 is no longer listed by Rock Auto for the 73 510.

As Linda mentioned, regardless, if you get the 111538 510 master you will still need the adapters.

So, long story short -

111538 - from Rock Auto and a couple other vendors, should work with the adapter as mentioned...

Thanks to all who helped resolve this for me.

Datsun.David wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:57 pm So, long story short -
111538 - from Rock Auto and a couple other vendors, should work with the adapter as mentioned...
Thanks to all who helped resolve this for me.

Great work ! ! ! !
I know I was confused about this topic and just heard tidbits of information. We should add this to the Wiki.

Don't have to use the adapters if you take off the bottom nuts the lines screw into on your OEM Roadster master and use them on the 510 master. Never done it, but it is referenced in the archives. Apparently it is hard to get them off...torque needed.

Linda

My question is will the bigger lower nuts on the roadster master fit where the smaller ones are on the new 510s?

Looks like it was a swap between 240z and Roadster for the bolts by Andy Cost.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ake+master
But also Fergus did a swap Roadster to 510
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ter#p13665
Linda

Sid - I will tey and take a look when I drag my 67.5 out of storage... the only roadster I have here now... has a Z car master...

With your master cylinder set up you should be running two masters, one for front one for rear, this will also allow you to add a balance bar, I would suggest that you look at a pedal box replacement with masters that face the other direction with remote reservoirs, this would eliminate the issue you are having, and be a much better working solution for you. I run dual masters on my 67.5 race car and there are pictures at www.rcnetworksracing.com if that helps.

Thanks for the insights Ron! I will definitely surf your blog!

Dual masters are a joy to drive, as you can "tune" them to have the car react under braking as you want it to.. There is a reason my street car was designed as a dual master set-up, using a Wilwood reverse master pedal set.. And of course, the Rock Vest car is also set up with dual masters, using a Tilton reverse master pedal set.

Interestingly, when Kevin and I built the body for the green car, we decided to hide the masters in the cowl vent area. Seemed a novel approach, and clean and serviceable.. When we got the Rock Vest car home, we were going to service the brake system, and we found the reservoir under the cowl vent cover..lol

A dual master setup with balance bar is the way to go with a race car certainly- once you do that you will never look back.

An oversized master actually reduces braking force if you do the math. Would not recommend 7/8 o r 1"!for a street car - big reduction in line pressure.----most 7/8" ,1" and larger masters use vac-assist for exactly this reason (all z cars).

With a big master the pedal will feel great-very firm//, but your stopping distance may actually be longer oops.

3/4" is going to give you the most force of the three sizes listed. (as long as the travel isn't to much)

OEM brakes on the car, willwoods and vented rotors are not accepted by some sanctioning bodies as they want to see OEM or as it was raced in the day both of these will not make the grade.

Fuel pump wise, a single low pressure fuel pump should suffice I run a holley red pump and have for 15 seasons, no issues. I happen to like surge tanks if you have one, use it, make sure your bladder and foam are current in your car.

Thanks Ron! I am working through my list... I will probably build up a set of stock brakes too. As for the bladder and foam, I am having trouble getting the bladder to let go of the cell... like a chinese finger puzzle - pull up and it wants to get tighter... I think I might try to float it out by squirting water down the sides...