no spark check list
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
no spark check list
I know this is very basic but I finally got my 67.5 1600 running again after 15 years off the road(new carbs, hydraulics, brakes, clutch,points,plugs, coil,wires etc) and now once again I'm getting no spark. Can anyone give me a basic checklist to run down the problem, including if it is possible to check coil,condensers etc with a multimeter. Wiring under the dash is badly butchered as well, so and shortcuts tracking the problem there would be greatly appreiciated. Thanks, Chris
- S Allen
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RE:Basic No Spark Trouble Shooting
Chris,
A multi-meter is an invaluable device and will pay for itself the first time you use it. A 12 volt test light works okay! Pretty cheap. So I take it the starter turns over but you have no spark. Turn the ignition key to the on position. With either a multi-meter or a test light check to make sure you have voltage at the resistor and then the coil. If you have no voltage at the resistor you have a bad connection from the igniton switch to the resistor. If you have no voltage to the coil then I would suspect the resistor. If you have voltage to the coil check the connection to the distributor. If you have no voltage there it could be the coil. You can also check spark by pulling the cap and rotor off of the dizzy. With the ignition key on open the points with an insulated screw driver. If everything is working up to the distributor you should get a spark when you separate the points. You can use the Ohm Meter function to test the integrity of a wire. You will have zero resistance with a good wire and infinite resisitance with a bad wire. Corroded dirty connections can cause all kinds of intermitent problems. That should get you started.
Steve
A multi-meter is an invaluable device and will pay for itself the first time you use it. A 12 volt test light works okay! Pretty cheap. So I take it the starter turns over but you have no spark. Turn the ignition key to the on position. With either a multi-meter or a test light check to make sure you have voltage at the resistor and then the coil. If you have no voltage at the resistor you have a bad connection from the igniton switch to the resistor. If you have no voltage to the coil then I would suspect the resistor. If you have voltage to the coil check the connection to the distributor. If you have no voltage there it could be the coil. You can also check spark by pulling the cap and rotor off of the dizzy. With the ignition key on open the points with an insulated screw driver. If everything is working up to the distributor you should get a spark when you separate the points. You can use the Ohm Meter function to test the integrity of a wire. You will have zero resistance with a good wire and infinite resisitance with a bad wire. Corroded dirty connections can cause all kinds of intermitent problems. That should get you started.
Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
- Minh
- Roadsteraholic
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- Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)
If you get spark from the coil to the distrubutor and no spark from distrubutor to the plugs, then chances are the problem is in the distributor - condensor, points, ground, corroded connector.
If you get no spark from the coil, then it somewhere between the coil and the ignition switch.
If you get no spark from the coil, then it somewhere between the coil and the ignition switch.
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!