Need support for point, rotor and cap

[bespa]

Most of you probably are for electronic ignition. I am at the point of changing my rotor, point, and cap again and adjusting the timing.
The only reason I know is that it's stock. Is there any other reason for me to keep it this way or should I cross the track. Pros and cons would be good.

[S Allen]

The quality of the points one gets these days are pretty much crap. Going with a Gary Boone EI dizzy is the correct way to go. No more points to set or burn up. The car will start on the first crank and run smooth through all rpm ranges. Gas mileage will improve some but varies due to all the variables involved i.e.engine condition, carb adjustments as well as timing. The EI's are a little pricy but Gary produces a quality product and stands behind it totally. I say if you can afford it go EI. You will not be sorry. That is my little speel on the subject.

Steve

[Minh]

He's asking $195 for em. They went for $125 last year though.

[Russell Roach]

Minh,

Purchased two from Gary last year never paid 125 I think his asking price is around 225. Darn well worth the price! you will love dealing with Gary he is a class act.

Russell

[S Allen]

Gary's EI Dizzys have never been $125.00. Last year he ran a special for $195.00. They run around $225.00 plus a core now. Still worth the cash though. I think a rebuilt stock dizzy will cost you between $125.00 to $150.00. Please do not quote me on those prices though. It has been three plus years since I bought a stock distributor. ............and I never will again!

Steve

[oilleak]

I built my own EI distributor. Probabley saved all of about $5 when it was said and done. Gary's prices are very good and, unless you wanted to build one for the experiance of it, I'd buy one from Gary. Keep in mind if you build one that most of the A series cores out there don't have the right advance curve so you have to correct that.

[bespa]

So I take it that there isn't even a sentimental value for
the old points-rotor-cap distributor then.

[S Allen]

Yeah, I think that is pretty much a consensus-points suck!!! Scott Lindley built his own EI dizzy as well. Scott you out there?

Steve

[Minh]

Sorry guys, if I had quoted $125. My memory is in all likelyhood mot defintiely slipping.

[S Allen]

No problem Minh. Wishfull thinking on your part. The EI's are still a heck of a deal.

Steve

[70MTroadster]

Yeppir, I'm out here. I did build my own EI dizzy, but I have a lathe and mill and was able to marry the L series EI top to the roadster bottom to make it work. Not an easy project for the uninitiated. Gary is the way to go unless your a hopeless car nut gearhead like me.

In other news, the U20 crank nose is rekeyed and shortened but I am having a devil of a time threading that darned forged steel crank nose.

I also ran into a guy who runs his own one person welding shop here in Spokane that has installed 14 L series engines in Roadsters and also a VG30DE in a roadster. He's a wizard in my humble opinion.

He's got me horny to get my roadster together in time to go to Mt. Shasta in July.

Take care folks.

Scott

[ambradley]

From everything I've heard, Gary Boone makes an excellent product.

Another option is to use a Pertronix Ignitor which fits inside the stock distributor and replaces the points. Also fairly easy to install and costs about $70 (I got mine for $60 total on eBay). You reuse your cap and rotor. No more points, so no more gap, no more pitting, etc. Unlike the GB EI distributor, this still requires the ballast resistor. You'll also probably need about $1 worth of wire to extend the leads from the Ignitor to the ignition coil and resistor.

[Datsa 66]

I'll add my own kudos to Gary's product.

I put it in my 67 2000 and it looks great and works as advertised. A top quality product.

You won't go wrong with his Ei unit and Gary is a great guy.


Andrew Murphy
1967.5 2000