One small step...

[SLOroadster]

SRL311-09380 just took a giant leap toward going to Solvang. The engine is in . On that note, a U20 CAN be installed with the headers and intake on the engine. You need to remove the rear carb (with solexs at least) in order to clear the brake master cylinder. It is best to use atleast 3 people for the job, but is very fast and easy. I have the TRI-MILL/CDM headers on and the flange clears the frame rail no problem. Ignition will happen later this afternoon (currently 2:37 AM as I post this). Will keep progress posted.
Will

[SLOroadster]

On March 30 at 10:40 Pm the silence was suddnely shattered by the bark of a U20 solex with open headers.... For the first time since last August SRL311-09380 shows signs of life. Now for the suspension and new exhaust system. Solvang will be attended.

Will

[S Allen]

Nothing like a little progress to spur one on. Especially after putting a fair amout of time ad money into the project.

Steve

[Minh]

You got that right !!!!

I already almost 30 days into mine and I just rounding the final lap for the brake system and just started the first lap on the fuel system. Damn the rain!

Many kudos dude... You must be getting wood just knowing your that close to be completed.

I would.

I'll see you in Solvang as a spectator if not an attendee. This will be my firt one. However, it also depends on how my pregant wife feels that weekend.

[SLOroadster]

Hell has frozen over. It left the garage last night under its own power. I think it was only running on one cylinder however. I have spark to all four, but only one seems to be running. I will figure it out later tonight. The ultra light flywheel seems to be pretty cool. I had a steady idle on one cylinder last night (the other 3 were unpluged one by one trying to find which ones were firing.) I had a similar problem when I got it running about this time last year.

Will

[SLOroadster]

The roadster went to the gas station tonight. Most of the gremlins were driven off (disributor problems mostly) the carbs are semi-balanced, and the engine revs like a video game. I have a feeling that I have created one fast 2L. It is going to be very fast, I'm guessing very low or sub 15 second 1/4s at a good trap speed . Power delivery appears to be almost instant. I will be installing the new suspension this weekend, and the exhaust some time before Solvang. I am going to get into way to much trouble with this

Will

[S Allen]

Will,

You are getting real close now. You will have to give me a ride in your rocket ship at Solvang.

Steve

[SLOroadster]

Steve,
you might look into a lightweight flywheel for the race car. This thing is cool on the street, but I can see how it is an advantage in a road course. As far as being a rocket, I have to admit I have created the Give-Me-A-Ticket mobile.
Will

[S Allen]

I have a lightened flywheel for the race car. It is not a Nissan competiton but it was professionally lightened. I will put it in the next time I have the motor pulled.
So you got yourself a ticket magnet huh? What color is it? Red always attracts the constabulary types interest.

Steve

[SLOroadster]

Currently my car is grey primer with black primer racing stripes. It will remain that way until I have access to a paint booth to finish it.
This weekend saw the installation of the new compititon springs and KONI shocks both front and rear. I got the front anti-sway bar on as well, it was a serious pain in the behind. As ususal a simple project turns into a 6 hour battle with what should be a straight forward instalation. The rear sway bar looks to be even more fun. As far as driving impressions so far, it is a rocket. I need to add some negitive camber to the front end, but it feels good. I have a major oil leak that appears to be coming from the timing cover . I really don't want to pull the engine, but I havent figured out a better way to fix it. Good thing I have the big oil pan. I think by Solvang I should have everything sorted out.

Will

[spl310]

From what I understand, the rear bar is made for race cars rather than street bars and as such it tries to occupy the same space used by the exhaust. All accounts are that it is a monsterous PITA if you keep anything close to an original exhaust format.

Sid

[SLOroadster]

OK here is what I have done...
MIKUNI SOLEX carbs, NISMO aluminum flywheel, MSD 6AL ignition, NISMO compitition rod bearings, nissan main bearings, new rear main seal, new 650 kg clutch, NISMO compititon front and rear springs, NISMO polyurathane bushings and spring seats (rear), and NISMO 23mm front swaybar with a rear sway bar. I plan to run a 2 or 2.25 inch exhaust with a long glasspack and a supertrapp exhaust from a set of TRI-MILL/ CDM ceramic coated headers with a flex pipe, this will happen later this week.
I have a few things to sort out, I have a massive oil leak from the top of the timing chain cover (my newly repainted block, polished timing cover and valve cover have a thick sheen of syntec motor oil covering it.), and I have created the MEGA-OVERSTEERING FIEND. This is due to the fact that the mounts for the rear sway bar bottom on the frame, and the rear bumps are to long as well. I will cut these as short as I can tomorrow.
This thing oversteers so much that it is scary . Last night I had the plow, tonight it wants to swap ends faster than the engine revs. However it goes like rocket and doesn't stop. I wish I knew someone with a dyno to find out what kind of power I am actually pulling.
This thing is unreal,

Will

[SLOroadster]

I think I have calmed the oversteer. I cut the rear bumpstops so they are about 1 inch tall, and replaced the rear mount of the sway bar with a shorter bolt and removed one of the bushings lowering the stack height. It will still oversteer but no where near as much as what it was last night. It is almost neutral. I am still sorting things out, tomorrow it will get the new exhaust, and an alignment. The ride is not a bone-jarring as I thought it would be, it is stiff, but not quite harsh. (IMO anyway, I am used to a stiff aluminum bicycle with 130 psi in the tires, now that is harsh.) I think ground clearance is a minor issue, as long as I am carefull, life should be good, however I am a little concerned about the big oil pan, I really don't want to have to buy another.

Will

[S Allen]

Will,

I want to see how you mounted your rear sway bar. I may or may not put one on the race car. Many racer types run without one. If you do a write up with pics I would like to post it on the web site. Solvang is getting real close.

Steve

[SLOroadster]

Steve,
I will do a write up with pictures and send it to you. I am running a 2 inch exhaust and have no clearance issues with the swaybar. It is a really easy instalation. You do have to drill holes in the frame, but that is the most diffucult thing. With the holes drilled it will take one person about 15 minutes to put it in. If I decide that it is too twitchy for street use, I think I will still keep it for autoXing and install it on site.
I don't know if my car will make it to Solvang due to its massive timing cover/head interface oil leak. I think I will have to pull the engine and the head, replace the headgasket and re-replace the timing cover gasket . I don't have any of the gaskets needed at this point. . If its not one thing its another. I also discovered I need new lower ball joints last night, with all the new suspension it brought out problems that were previously unkknown.

Will