U20 lower intake manifold washers

Tech tips and how to's

Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68

Post Reply
User avatar
Minh
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 830
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:48 am
Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)

U20 lower intake manifold washers

Post by Minh »

Hey my intake is leaking water after I had added coolant into it for the 1st time, and it is leaking at the intake manifold.

After checking the head bolts are being bent. the brand new head studs tilting. I am using a plain thick flat stainless steel washers.

It is becase the intake and exhauset manifold have diffferent thicknesses. The exhaust manifold is a bit thicker than the intake manifold.

I am using the non-free flowing exhaust with the wider dual square exhaust port in the middle. (it's all i got)

Is there a special washer I am supposed to use? The original washers were lost when I got the car.

If so what is the part #?

Please help... I'm so close to getting ready to turn it over.
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
User avatar
SLOroadster
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 5360
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2002 2:53 am
Location: Napa Ca

leak

Post by SLOroadster »

You have to get ALL the lower intake bolts tight. The only way that I have been able to do this is with the engine out. Every U20 that I have had to pull the intake off without pulling the engine has leaked when I put it back together. The problem is that it is nearly impossible to torque those rear nuts down tight due to a lack of wrench/hand room. You can get it with the engine out, but unless you have really skinny arms that are really long, you are in for an uphill battle.

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
User avatar
Minh
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 830
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:48 am
Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)

Post by Minh »

Thanks Will. will do.

I gonna dig around and see what I can buy.

I will have to try to tighten up again with the motor in. I don't have the cherry picker handy at my house. Course that mean I have disconnect the chokes from the carbs. And, remove the carbs.

I have aleady started stripping the nuts the 1st time I put em in. This time I wil buy a new 6-point socket instead of the 12-point.

It is not so bad if you use the right tool. Depending on which nut I had good luck with swivle joint, wobble extension", and the "S" and "C" wrenchs.

Glad there's a Harbor Freght Hardware store in town. It is not craftsman, but for the price I can't really complain. I also have smaller hands being 5'5 and all :)
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
oilleak

Post by oilleak »

If you're running SU's and a stock exhaust manifold, you can get to all the lower nuts by removing the carb heatshield and using a socket and a couple of extensions. That can be difficult with a header as the tubes are often in the way somewhat although a swivel may give you enough clearance to get to the nuts.
I've relocated the alternator and just go at them with an open end wrench from the front underneath the header. You should use the stock washers - convex side out. if there is a large differance between the flange thickness of the manifolds, you can grind down one side of the washer to make it sit flat.
Tighten the lower nuts before final tightening of the upper bolts.
User avatar
Minh
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 830
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:48 am
Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)

Post by Minh »

Got it... Thanks Brian.

Of course It wil have to wait... I'm about toe list my house for sale today. which means my house and yards needs to be looking pretty for absolute stangers, ASAP.

:(

I was so close... :evil:
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
TR

Post by TR »

Hey Minh,

Check schulderm on ebay, he has the nuts and washers you need. When you buy that 6 point socket, get a good one, not the harbor freight issue. A wimpy socket can lead to just as many problems. You can get away with cheaper ones elsewhere, but engine bolts and especially ones that get hot need tender care...TR
User avatar
Minh
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 830
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:48 am
Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)

Post by Minh »

I would grind the ones I have, but I am using 4 stainless steel washers stacked on top of each other. But hey, if I can notch 2 of em enough to slide past the higher exhaust manifold that might work. I'll try that 1st... After I move into the ranchette.

I thought Matt Schluder only sells stuff in sets... Well,.. I have had good experience with him in the past. It guess won't hurt to ask. The only thing is he (and Carl Jaeger) charges "Buy It Now" prices whenever you ask them direct.

Thanks Travis...

(BTW: I still need that bumper. See you in Shasta) :)
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
Ratster

Post by Ratster »

That's Bruce Schluderman in Texas (shluderm is his Ebay handle). Really good guy to deal with. Even sells to a Canuck! :)
TR

Post by TR »

Minh,

That's right, Bruce is the guy you want. He typically sells a set of exhaust manifold stuff, just make sure it is the std or metric that you need. I would suggest using the thick washers from the NOS set and not messing with the thinner ones, they will just get soft and flex in the heat of the exhaust system and be a real pain. The thick washers have curved heads so that the bolts sit flat even if the washers are crooked...

TR
TR

Post by TR »

Speaking of...

eBay item #2468548124

TR
Post Reply