Hey Guys,
I am in need of some assistance here. SLORoadster and I are trying to get my brakes up to snuff but keep running into a problem. For some reason the front brakes will not release pressure on the rotors. We swaped over the better calipers from the ’67 and still have the same problem. In my years of doing brakes I have never seen such a thing. We bleed both the master and both front calipers. We did not bleed the back but I don’t see how that could cause an anomaly like this in front!? Any help would be appreciated…p.s. are the rear shoes a simple local parts store purchase?
Front Caliper lock down!?
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
Is it a single or dual master?
Are the brakes 'on' when the lines are dry/disconnected? I'm guessing not...If so, is only one pad touching? It sounds like you tried two sets of calipers?
Are the rear brakes 'on' too? You might want to bleed them, because maybe air pressure is actuating the fronts?
Maybe the pressure release in the master is not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir?
TR
Are the brakes 'on' when the lines are dry/disconnected? I'm guessing not...If so, is only one pad touching? It sounds like you tried two sets of calipers?
Are the rear brakes 'on' too? You might want to bleed them, because maybe air pressure is actuating the fronts?
Maybe the pressure release in the master is not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir?
TR
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
- Posts: 13241
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
Hey TR,
It is a single system for now.
Hi 310,
I did not change the hose but am now looking for steel braided. Where is the best priced? I figured someone on here would have a line on making them.
I will try bleeding the rears on my next day off. I did want to get new shoes before "going there".
Thanks!
It is a single system for now.
Hi 310,
I did not change the hose but am now looking for steel braided. Where is the best priced? I figured someone on here would have a line on making them.
I will try bleeding the rears on my next day off. I did want to get new shoes before "going there".
Thanks!
- Marky510
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 12:23 pm
- Location: Santa Barbara, CA
- Contact:
Lance,
Try cracking the bleed screw when it's locked. If it releases then pressure is being held somewhere, could be the hoses as Sid mentioned. Also check the pushrod for the master is returning all the way back in its bore, if it isn't then pressure could be held that way. Good luck.
Mark
Try cracking the bleed screw when it's locked. If it releases then pressure is being held somewhere, could be the hoses as Sid mentioned. Also check the pushrod for the master is returning all the way back in its bore, if it isn't then pressure could be held that way. Good luck.
Mark
1970 Stroked 1600
Still waiting for cylinder head.
1966 Ford Cortina MK1 Wagon
1968 Volvo 124 Wagon -- For Sale
1963 Datsun WPL312 Wagon
Still waiting for cylinder head.
1966 Ford Cortina MK1 Wagon
1968 Volvo 124 Wagon -- For Sale
1963 Datsun WPL312 Wagon
-
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 2:27 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Lance,
Mark, is on the path I was going to suggest. I have had that problem with a mis adjusted brake rod at the pedal not letting the master return to the rest position. I also had a problem using a new used/master I stored for a while, it would hold a little pressure in the brake master. The master was plugged internally. When it would lock the brakes you could open the bleeder at the master it would release the pressure, and you could turn the wheels. But every time you used the brakes it would drag a little more till they would be completely on. I played with it for quite a while before replacing the master, this fixed the problem. I hope this helps.
Crazy Backyard Builder
Mark, is on the path I was going to suggest. I have had that problem with a mis adjusted brake rod at the pedal not letting the master return to the rest position. I also had a problem using a new used/master I stored for a while, it would hold a little pressure in the brake master. The master was plugged internally. When it would lock the brakes you could open the bleeder at the master it would release the pressure, and you could turn the wheels. But every time you used the brakes it would drag a little more till they would be completely on. I played with it for quite a while before replacing the master, this fixed the problem. I hope this helps.
Crazy Backyard Builder
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
- Posts: 13241
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
I have not shopped for the stainless lines, so I cannot help with the lowest price. Here are details of what you need:
http://www.311s.org/tech/brakes/brakelines.html
Let us know what you find!
http://www.311s.org/tech/brakes/brakelines.html
Let us know what you find!
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- Minh
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 830
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:48 am
- Location: Elk Grove, CA (near Sacramento)
I believe the 510 and trucks used the identical drums (including aside form the later finned ones).
http://www.311s.org/partinterchange.html
The Early 510 1968-1973 rear brake shoes fit on the roadsters
http://www.311s.org/partinterchange.html
The Early 510 1968-1973 rear brake shoes fit on the roadsters
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!