Unknown wires/connectors & STARTUP w/out body on

[Guest]

Guys, i know that I probably ask more than anyone at this point, but I want to start this baby, and the details.....OH! the details.

I have two things here that are part of the harness, but were loose in a box. I took pics of them and will send them if I can get an email address to send it though my AOL.

Also, I don't know which one of the wires (yellow or black that go on the fuel sending unit on the tank) goes on the brass looking terminal, and which goes on the silver one???????????


Last but not least.......If I want to start the engine, but the body is off the car still, what minimum wiring do I need to have operational for a temporary test before putting the body back on the frame?

Jorge

[Marky510]

Jorge,
Send me those pics and I'll try to help you with where they go.
I just re-did my entire harness in my '68 but I didn't get to the tank end of that small section. So I can't really help you there (at least not tonight) but I can take a peek at it tomorrow and let you know.
As far as what you need to start the engine with the body off I did that with my 70 so here goes...
You need:
to hook 12v from battery to coil positive, then wire from coil negative to dist (for short run it is not necessary to wire up ballast resistor)
hook up starter with battery positive cable and ground battery to engine
to actually turn over the engine, I used a remote starter switch, one end hooked to pigtail on starter and the other end to battery positve terminal
push the button untill it starts
make sure you have fuel too, I used a gas can with a hose stuck in it to the fuel pump, worked fine for me
and you don't need to wire up the alternator either just for a short run
I think I've covered most of it. Good Luck!
please feel free to email me with any questions at mcraw42@cox.net
I'm actually gonna work on my '68 tomorrow and get it running finally, hopefully gonna have it at Solvang this year, so it's a good time for me to check stuff for you on a mostly complete car (all I have to do is wire my EI dist and mount the alternator and it should start right up... hopefully in a prefect world)

Mark

[Guest]

Mark:

You have no idea of how helpful this has been for me!!!!!!!! I can't thank you enough. As soon as I get to it, I'll let you know what was the outcome!!

Jorge

[S Allen]

Jorge and everyone else,

You can always email me pictures of things to post if you have no other means of posting them yourself. We have done it in the past and I will be glad to continue doing it in the future. I have been kind of busy at work this past week. Email addresses 67datroad@vbbn.com or 67datroad@311s.org

Also, Jorge, do you still want the windshield and gasket or are you going to try to buy one from a local dealer? The glass may still be available.

Steve

[DatsunBucky]

I believe the gas tank sender is just a rheostat, so it varies the voltage (or ground) that goes through the gauge and the needle moves. As a rheostat, I don't think it matters which side of the sender either wire goes on. I could be wrong, but if you can get the sender out, try the wires connected each way and see if it makes a difference.

[Minh]

Bucky,

I remember Spreadbury using an Acura fuel pump and sending unit inside the Roadster gas tank in his KA swap...

Thought this little piece of info might mean something to you.

[TR]

The yellow wire is the signal wire and the black is a ground. The black ground goes to the lug without an insulator, the yellow goes to the clip with the insulator. An extra ground is run to the tank because it is mounted in such a way that it might not be well grounded. Good Luck! TR