Recommended Tip on Opening ‘67.5 Dash to Access Wiring Connections

[Linda]

The guages and toggles ground to the dash, correct? Maybe an issue.
Linda

[Curtis]

The guages and toggles ground to the dash, correct? Maybe an issue.
Linda

None of the gauges except the clock need to ground but the lights do through the gauge casing. The fuel, temp, oil, amp are all in and out gauges. Toggles need no ground. A couple have ground wires that go to the main ground that connects to the frame.

[Pjackb]

Follow up question on this topic I'm not clear on
can the gauges be removed without removing the dash ?
I plan on replacing the gauges on my car but wanted to do it without removing the dash if possible

[S Allen]

Pat,

Too darned funny. Will find a spot in the tech wiki for your humor. Thanks.

Steve

[Curtis]

Follow up question on this topic I'm not clear on
can the gauges be removed without removing the dash ?
I plan on replacing the gauges on my car but wanted to do it without removing the dash if possible

Up to 67.5 all gauges can be removed without taking out the dash. Of course 68-70 the dash doesn't come out. Not sure what part the dash pad plays in that. Someone?

[S Allen]

Pat,

You have been published in the wiki.

Pat's dash removal humor

Steve

[dynaguy]

Pat,

You have been published in the wiki.

Pat's dash removal humor

Steve

Happy you appreciated it.

After spending some time under the dash of "survivor" yesterday, I made an amendment to that post. Step #1a has been included.

Pat

[S Allen]

Added Step #1A

S

[C.Costine]

I had to go back under the dash of my '67 recently. I discourage removing the pad. They are so fragile. I get mine up in the air and match the height of my shop stool, which is actually an old office chair with arms and back removed. I removed the tach and speedo. They aren't hard to get in and out, and access to other things like the directional indicators is much enhanced with them out. I did this without removing the seat.

[SP3]

Thanks C. Costume,

I hadn’t considered removing the two big gauges but will try this as my next step.

I am also going to pull the Ammeter and see if it is possible to swap out the spade lug connectors for a threaded type. I have been plagued several times by the 12V push-on connectors coming off.

[C.Costine]

Thanks C. Costume,

I hadn’t considered removing the two big gauges but will try this as my next step.

I am also going to pull the Ammeter and see if it is possible to swap out the spade lug connectors for a threaded type. I have been plagued several times by the 12V push-on connectors coming off.

SP3, those wires to the ammeter are prone to working loose simply because they are such large gauge that they will pull tension away from the connector. If you can get them secured to something else to hold a little tension towards the connector you should be OK.

[Curtis]

The stock terminal connectors for the ammeter should be the spring type. This keeps it from coming apart. You probably won't have any converting to screw terminal. The bezel is pressed on and very hard to remove without ruining it. I had mine converted to a voltmeter.



On the right is the spring type and left a regular female blade terminal. Packard Delphi 56 female terminal.

IMG_2811.JPG

IMG_2812.JPG

[C.Costine]

Curtis, I can see the difference, but within a given type of terminal I have found a lot of difference mainly in the thickness of the metal that they are stamped and formed from. I got some that I would call only "almost" terminals that I just couldn't trust anywhere except for low current and where I could check them at a glance.

[Curtis]

I buy these spring terminals from a couple sources and use them on 10 gauge wire. They work well. After crimping which is important I seal them with a touch of solder. For the regular terminal I buy some from Japan that have bigger crimp tangs for larger wire.