Soft top installation tips?

[Linda]

I read thru the WIKI guide for the convertible top install, any other tips?
Is the metal strip screwed on with the top on the car, or would you mark the edge and screw on the strip off the car, then tightening as required?
Doing the install to save bucks and because the top will never be up anyway.
Thx
Linda

[cktrap]

Try this
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... TopInstall
Keith

[Linda]

Yes, I read that. I thought there might be additional tips that I could use.

Linda

[DivinDave]

Before you start punching holes and the like, set the top onto the frame and car and see that it will actuall fit the frame , etc. evaluate it to make sure it is stitched up right and is what you ordered. Cant send it back once you punch holes in it.

I first set up the center points of the bow and the top, both front and rear, marking them with chalk or marker tape. Then install all the fasteners. With the top attached and the frame in postion, pull the top material tight and make it look balanced on the frame. Mark the front edge with your chalk where it breaks across the front of the bow.

You will have to remove frame and top and lay it upside down. Then use your chalk marks to guide where to roll it over the bow and then use the metal clamp strip to screw it down. Start in the middle and work out, the screws will generally punch thru the top material and if you use a power driver set the torque low. The outside ends will be more difficult to bend around the end of the bow smoothly, but take time and work them down. You may have to adjust how much of the material is pulled back under the clamp strip after you fit the frame and top on the car. You want the top fairly tight by the final fitting. Once its all fit up the best you can, then the gasket gets glued on last.

The whole thing takes time and patience, probably four to six hours. I get faster with every top, but i also have all the punch tools and the like. Measure for the centers carefully on car, bow and the top. Measure and check twice before you punch the holes for the fasteners or you will he sewing on some patches...

[Linda]

Thanks Dave. Good to hear some actual experience.
I did not install the postie and Twisties hardware yet, I did the bow first. It seems pretty centered and fairly snug. I am going to leave it up to see how much the top will stretch.Once I am happy with it I will do the postie/twistie hardware.
It sure does take quite a while. The ends are the hardest. I got a heat gun in case I needed it. I am glad I did not get canvas I think that would be harder to do. Upholsterers earn their money doing these installations, but it feels good to be able to do this even if not perfect. All part of the personal investment in the car.
Guess you sure need a top with a Hurricane coming at you. You guys on the east coast are tough! :shock
Linda

[shifty]

Linda,

One tip is to slightly stretch the material for each postie working from the back (an extra 1/8" or so) - the idea is to leave enough material for the last twisty at the doors.

Also the best gauge of how far forward to stretch the top is the inside flap that attaches to the tabs at just behind the header - if that makes no sense, let me know!

[Linda]

Hi Leigh,
Timely info, I was wondering if the hardware postie/Twisties was done from the back to front, or the reverse. There seems to be enough material.
Do you have the front bow clamps undone when fitting, or clamped?
Thx
Linda

[shifty]

From back to front - the trick is stretch the material a bit for each postie - so that you have enough material at the door.

Front clamps were undone when fitting - don't get it too tight, which is what I did - really hard to put the top up when it is cold!

[Linda]

With the front clamps undone I marked each Twisties and postie to be sure there was enough material for the last Twisties at the door. Then I decided to see where the marks would be if the front clamps were latched, turns out all marks were off. So now I am confused. I want the Twisties and posties to be where they are with the top up, but not sure if that is correct.
Any other thoughts ?
Thx
Linda

[shifty]

Now that I think about it, I had the top mounted with the bar at the rear, then punched the holes and mounted the hardware for the first twisty on each side (working from the back). Then I did the front bow clamps, and kept them latched for the rest of the install.

Then do the next twisty on each side. Then the first set of posties (still working from the back). Stretch the material a bit between each set of posties. You have to work your way around, installing each piece as you go - just marking and then doing them all at once would not work as well (IMHO).

[Linda]

That sounds like a good plan. Like you mentioned, having enough vinyl for the last Twistie at the door is vital.
It also seemed that you went back and forth from one side to the other rather than 1 side all at once.
Waiting for some warmer weather as I am a little leary of the heat gun....
Linda

[dbrick]

I found centering is the key, and having the top warm in the sun. 3 people is best, 2 minimum. When you setup the front bow, err on the side of loose, you can always pull it tighter and won't see the hole. I put the bar in, set the adjuster to the middle or longest and clip it in the back, set up the bows and pull the warm top forward and mark it, like Dave said. I attached the center of the roof with 2 screws and stretched it both ways toward the doors, then pulled the corners down and forward to get it tight as it goes around the corner and then one screw at each end. You can judge how well centered it is by how the seems on the top line up with the top of the vent window. If it looks good, then take out the 4 screws, put the metal strip on and re-install the 4 screws. Final chance for fine adjustment and then put the remaining screws in. An old soldering iron is good for holes for the screws and later for twisties and posties. I fit them all with just a hole over the postie. If it looks good, then put the metal parts over the holes. Just mark the holes using the prongs, but cut them through with an Exacto knife. A metal tube, like a small pipe can be sharpened on a grinder used as a hollow punch for the twistie holes. Ifthe twisties/posties are too high, there is some adjustment on the pivots

As you said, it will hardly ever be up, so a nice and straight, but loose fit will let it go up easily after being folded for a year or two, as it will shrink when folded.

[Skyman]

Another helpful tip if it has not been mentioned is to have the frame tightness adjustments completely in the down or contracted position. You can tighten up the top using these adjustments if the top is a little loose. You can also take out any slack as the top gets looser with use. Oh, wait, you're in like LA or something. It never rains there.

[Linda]

What I wound up doing was securing the top to the bow snugly with some screws and the metal bar. Then I adjusted the clamps so they all worked correctly. With the top up and latched, rear bar secured as well, I started stretching and marking the hardware locations over the Twisties and posties. It seemed the top had to be up to get an accurate location but it was hard to stretch the material and line up the hardware. I have to do the last one on each side at the door. I used a hole punch, utility knife, a soldering iron, and a heat gun for spot work.
There are wrinkles but I am pretty satisfied, it won't flap at least, lol.
Hope that helps the next person
Linda

[Linda]

Finished using the plan mentioned. Top is up to let it stretch. Some wrinkles but it is OK for my purposes.
Plan on plenty of time to do.
Linda

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