Easy Motor Mount Alignment (w/pix)

[mraitch]

Locating motor mounts for me is one of the biggest pains in engine r+r

This solution makes it much easier

Cut down two bolts that fit in the FRONT engine mount hole (about 1 inch) - round off one end (the slots aren't necessary ultimately) though one could grind 'sides' to use pliers to remove

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Place in forward engine mount holes.

Then manipulate engine so that it slips over the 'pins'

Align the REAR holes next and loosely insert bolt/washer/nut. (Pointer: I usually run the bolt and nut through the appropriate die/tap to make it easy to use fingers

Replace the pins with appropriate bolts/washer.

Put pins somewhere safe for the next time.
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[Curtis]

I'll give it a try. I usually put the floor jack under the oil pan and use a long punch to line them up. Maybe a long allen head set screw would work. Trouble might be getting a fine thread.

Just checked, Bolt Depot has them.

[mraitch]

Don't know what the thread dims are, 10/24 I think, but this gives one an easy 'target' for alignment.

Anyhoo, it works for me. Just wish I had thought of it earlier - like 2006 - lol

FWIW.

[JT68]

It's a great solution. All you need is a 5/16-24 (sae) stud and loctite it in place, don't really need to slot it. So much easier to align- the mount just drops in place.

Another great place for a stud is either the upper or lower starter bolt. With that, the starter will support itself while you add the fasteners.

[nismou20]

Slick trick Pete! That is one of the most annoying bolts to start especially when the captive side is missing like on mine.

[Curtis]

So the problem with a stud at this position that you don't remove is thread damage. The chance of lowering the motor on to the stud without damaging the threads at top is pretty small. Good luck getting a nut on.

[JT68]

Negative. I started using studs there in about 1998. It really works great. Decent quality studs are grade 8-10 (or you can cut off a SHCS), so there is no thread damage. The studs only stick up like 3/8" too (for nut and lockwasher) If you are really concerned about it, just leave the engine mount bolts a little loose so they can wiggle, then tighten once in place. You just wiggle the engine a little as it goes in and it drops right on. Easy. Takes 1/10 the time of searching for the captive nut with a bolt. Once you do this, you will never go back, its a great tip.

[mraitch]

I guess that there is some confusion about my post.

The 'pins/studs' are NOT supposed to be left there. They are there SOLELY for guidance.

As I originally stated, once front hole is aligned on 'pin', address the back hole 1st, then REMOVE pins and replace with appropriate bolts/washers/nuts.

Regardless of others ability to 'drop' the engine in, in one fell swoop, for people like me who need help, this has proven to be invaluable.

[JT68]

You can leave studs there too. It works great. Here are two different installs. Thread damage is a non issue. Also keeps you out of the sins of the PO thread since you can’t cross thread the captive nut. Either way, great tip.

Excuse the dust, these were done a long time ago.

Mike Young gets credit for the stud-for-starter-bolt tip. (Also avoids potential thread damage to the bell housing due to misalignment!

[Mackn367]

I use the studs with the allen head top that way I can still drill it out no problem. I have a bag of them if anyone needs some.

[Curtis]

So if you're leaving it in do you put a jam nut on the back side since there is a possibility it could spin when you're trying to tighten it?

[JT68]

So if you're leaving it in do you put a jam nut on the back side since there is a possibility it could spin when you're trying to tighten it?

I never have, but you certainly could if you can get to it. just one drop of red loctite in the captive nut and it won't really try to turn. Loctite is nice since you can always remove it easily (w/heat). Or if you have a cool socket head set screw stud like Nick showed, just put an allen wrench in it. If you use new fasteners you can spin the nut on with fingers and then just final tighten with a wrench. It certainly won't loosen when tight.


There are lots of other places on roadsters when a stud+nut is more elegant than a bolt. Here are just a few:

Starter to bell housing as mentioned- (just one) I typically use a bolt in the second spot which makes removing the starter easier when you need to.

Next time you hang a door, put a couple 1/4-28 studs in the door jamb plates to temporarily support the door while you add all those bolts. Way easier to spin on a nut. Chase the captive plate threads first with a 1/4-28 tap so the stud will come back out easily. Replace the stud when installing the last few bolts.

Rear transmission mount on a 5-speed is a great place for stud/nut. I've seen SOOO many striped 5-speed rear extension housings.. no more of that.

Ground strap to frame and also negative battery cable to frame. (you don't have to try to hold things perfectly in position while starting a bolt) Just drop them on the stud and pop on a nut. (1/4-28 too). Must admit this is stolen from some other mfg's, can't remember where I saw that? maybe Mercedes?//

If you are doing a body-off resto, you can use a few studs in the body-to-frame captive nut plates. Makes easier to get them aligned.( temporarily or permanent)

Radiator cross bar-to-body (5/16 SAE). Makes it self supporting.

This might deserve it's own thread//

[Curtis]

Radiator, I HATE mounting that stupid thing.

[S Allen]

Put in the wiki under Restoration Tips.

Studs In Place Of Bolts


Steve

[Mackn367]

Put in the wiki under Restoration Tips.

Studs In Place Of Bolts


Steve

Thanks Steve. Do you think you could add some pictures for reference too? I can take some better/more accurate pics today and post here. I always like seeing pictures on the tech wiki to help with the task.