What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[Chilly Willy]

Installed new rear cylinders as well as brake shoes on rear end . It was a learning experience having never done it before. Cant say I enjoyed the shims that hold on the cylinder's

Chilly

[zippy67roadster]

So the O ring failed on my 67 1600 race car just as I finished the last race of the weekend at Eagles Canyon Raceway just outside of Ft. Worth last month. It started to really leak as I go about half way back to the trailer and I saw the oil pressure start to drop. I got it in the trailer and there was a mess under the car! It only lost about a quart of oil and only did it when the car was running so once shut off it slowed to a drip. It is amazing that getting an O ring is so difficult! Not one of the 4 auto parts shops locally had it and neither did a local hardware store. It really makes me long for the days of living in Vegas when I could run to McFadden Dales and get anything I needed! I ordered a dozen online to make sure I have plenty of spares. I removed the oil cooler and Accusump lines today and should have the O rings later this week. Once I get it back together she will get a very expensive oil change and will be ready for the next CVAR race in February.

[v8_ranch]

Took the float bowls and fuel line assemblies apart. Discovered I was missing one of the banjo bolt filters. Got a rebuild kit sourced. Still waiting on my "new" fuel pump pieces to arrive so I can complete putting my fuel pump back together. Also spent a little time on my front valance straightening attempt... I will be most likely posting in this thread for some time to come, haha

[notoptoy]

You are making good steady progress, keep it up!

[C.Costine]

You are coming along well but I think that you would find that you can make much better progress on the front by removing the fenders. Divide and conquer. You can bend each part much more readily when it is not tied to the part beside it.

[Linda]

You are coming along well but I think that you would find that you can make much better progress on the front by removing the fenders. Divide and conquer. You can bend each part much more readily when it is not tied to the part beside it.

That is the slippery slope that can result in years of restoration.
Question comes down to whether to drive sooner or later. I prefer the fix, drive,fix, drive approach. But “ doing it right” often encourages the whole resto and then it can take a long time. Any approach is fine, of course, just want to review your preferences from time to time.
My .02

Linda

[notoptoy]

The only wrinkle with completely removing the fenders is that you need to remove the doors (or try a few suggested methods without), a slippery slope of "while I'm there". I chose to loosen the fenders enough that I could work the center section of the apron out for finishing. That was only after I had worked to straighten them as a unit, thinking I might not have to fight as hard to get things to line up. In some places it was helpful to have the adjoining pieces for reference and to brace against. At least that is what I found, YMMV, find what works best for you! Since you are also working to get it running at the same time, I would stay on the track you are so that you can be mobile as soon as you are mechanically able.

[v8_ranch]

All good advice you guys, thank you. I am at doing the small bits and pieces as I can in-between things (that was the commitment to the wife). Have had some remodeling going on as well, and that has to get done. But on the car, I am at the point of waiting on parts again (my extra fuel pump pieces have been sitting at USPS in Memphis since the 4th, not sure what the hold up is... also have a carb rebuild kit on the way tomorrow, so going to go ahead and do that). I have the points and condenser to install still, but have replaced the plugs already - wires are OK, but will probably replace those too at some point. My next big mechanical tasks when I have time in the upcoming couple of weeks, will be to get the clutch and brake system gone through.

[RICHR]

I just purchased a 67 1600 CA car little rust but not driven for 10 years. Fortunately all gas was drained but clutch is frozen. I need parts. Car is at current owners awaiting shipment. He is mechanical and will try to replace slave cylinder! Where can I get one quickly? Suggestions for electric fuel pump? Would like to have running as transportation company is being difficult! Other ideas welcome. We have Kroil in cylinders... new plugs fresh clean gas from tank...I’m new to this car... so doing what I know but always can learn

[Linda]

See this page for info on clutch slave you can get right away, as well as other substitute parts. Bookmark it for down the line.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... nterchange

Linda

[v8_ranch]

Figured out I am missing my hood prop rod, and that the driver side hinge mount is loose (weld broke maybe). Also determined the PO's at some point while desmogged the car from hoses, etc, did not recurve dizzy. It is a 17.5 cam. Looks like more parts to buy.

[C.Costine]

I just purchased a 67 1600 CA car little rust but not driven for 10 years. Fortunately all gas was drained but clutch is frozen. I need parts. Car is at current owners awaiting shipment. He is mechanical and will try to replace slave cylinder! Where can I get one quickly? Suggestions for electric fuel pump? Would like to have running as transportation company is being difficult! Other ideas welcome. We have Kroil in cylinders... new plugs fresh clean gas from tank...I’m new to this car... so doing what I know but always can learn

Rich, I don't want to rain on your parade but it sounds like you are being over optimistic. It is hard to see the seller really getting involved to the degree that he needs to be to make the car drive onto a truck. A new slave cylinder may fix a frozen clutch maybe 30% chance. There are numerous potential problems in the fuel system besides the pump. I suggest that you re-evaluate the deal based on non-running transport. Another avenue is to find a shop in the area based on recommendations from members here and have them get it in and make it drive-able and loaded.

[Gregs672000]

I just purchased a 67 1600 CA car little rust but not driven for 10 years. Fortunately all gas was drained but clutch is frozen. I need parts. Car is at current owners awaiting shipment. He is mechanical and will try to replace slave cylinder! Where can I get one quickly? Suggestions for electric fuel pump? Would like to have running as transportation company is being difficult! Other ideas welcome. We have Kroil in cylinders... new plugs fresh clean gas from tank...I’m new to this car... so doing what I know but always can learn

A 42s fuel pump will do the job. However, you will need to cut the fuel line and route power to it. Alternatively to could just run temporary fuel lines to it and decide later. Best mounting place is in front of the passenger rear wheel on the frame if you plan to continue to use it long term. They don't pull well and need to be lower than the middle of the tank and near it. If needed, bypass the stock pump fuel lines up front. A fuel pump blocking plate for a Chevy will cover the hole in the block if you decide to remove the stock pump. However, as noted, there may be many issues involved before she starts and runs well enough for transport.

[Linda]

I don’t see what the problem for transport is. Everyday dead cars are winched on to flatbeds. Might be easier to look for new transport service.
Linda

[RICHR]

Thanks to all who replied all helpful comments! Linda the cross reference is very helpful and FYI to some who haven’t transported across country, some of the transport co’s must move the cars frequently to load and unload. So a car that doesn’t run costs more and provides fewer choices. If anyone can point me to a reputable service shop near Sandy Utah.. I’m in for have some work done before the trip!