I am using Joe Gibbs mineral oils, similar to Brad Penn or LAT
The ZDDP content is up around 8000 ppm
The Gibbs BR30 and xp4 are the same
They do a full synthetic
I know quite a few of the drag race guys use these oils
Anyone on here had any experience?
In Australia, the oil suppliers, too, have cut right back on the ZDDP content, fine for modern sewing machine engines, not so good for older cam on rocker on lash pad engines.
My car is soon to b released from the shop. All new seals, gaskets, valves, head ported. Also new clutch, transmission seals, etc. So my question is oil viscosity - now that it has new seals and has been refreshed, what do you think? The guys at the shop said I should go pick up some rotella 15W 40, which sounds like a good choice. But I thought I'd ask for a few opinions from the peanut gallery. Either that, or I'm stirring the pot...
Isn't that a diesel oil? If so, I would be concerned about the detergents in the diesel oil. Although it has ZDDP I think. I was running a diesel oil, 15W-40 for a couple thousand miles or so. I decided the detergents were too much of a concern. Now I'm using a Lucas 10W-40 with high amounts of ZDDP.
Penrite Classic 20W50, SH classificatie this is the oil I use.
Another oil is Bardahl Classic oil SAE 20W50, SF classificatie
or Kroon Oil Classic Multigrade 10W30, SF classificatie
That are the clasic oils you can buy here in the Netherlands.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
Has anyone looked at the Porsche Classic oils? We put it in all the old cars we service and the early stuff is designed to work well with cork gaskets, lead bearing shells, etc. This is a 20W50 weight... Worried it might be too thick for a street driven car?
I would stick with a 10w30 non synthetic . For normal driving . note rope seals can gush oil on start up or after a short drive by switching brands ...Ive seen it to many times
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