Wilwood Dynalite Single front brake conversion

Place to put all stickies after a month.

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datsunrides
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Wilwood Dynalite Single front brake conversion

Post by datsunrides » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:20 pm

Well, I finally got around to finishing my front brake conversion to all Wilwood components. This is meant more as an update to the stock brakes than a "performance" upgrade, but performance should be better than stock. My main reason to update was cost and the desire to keep the 14" wheels. The 4 piston conversions need a 15" wheel, if I recall correctly. The stock components are still available but are becoming quite expensive and are heavy. The Wilwood stuff is readily available, light weight and reasonably priced. Anyways, here is how I chose to do mine. I will start assuming everything is disassembled and ready to be put back together. First you will need to modify the dust shield, if you choose to retain it. You will need to cut the center "hub" off and cut some of the sides for clearance for the relocated caliper bracket.

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Then you can mount the shield to the spindle. Note: I had to put a couple of shim washers behind this to align the caliper over the rotor. Your results may vary! :)

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Next comes the modified stock caliper bracket. I was hoping to just make a new bracket, but a flat bracket would have interferred with the rotor mounting bolts and the offset of the stock bracket put the caliper pretty close to centered on the rotor. To modify the bracket, I had to cut off the stock caliper mounting lugs (threaded bung) and weld a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate to the original bracket. I do have a template that will get you close to matching the contour and has the holes marked for the caliper. I then welded some nuts to the bracket for the new caliper to bolt to.

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Next comes the installation of the rotor and hub assembly. For this, I had to modify a stock Wilwood hat to fit both the Roadster hub size (2.9") and lug bolt circle, as there was nothing available that had the right offset, center bore size and lug pattern. I had a machine shop modify the hat to work with the Roadster hub. I then mounted the rotor to the hat and this assembly to the hub just like the stock rotor, to the back of the hub. Then install this to the spindle. (new bearings ans seals would be a good idea)

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Next, bolt up the caliper and check clearances.

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I had to grind down my caliper slightly for wheel clearance and relocate the wheel weights as the caliper is a snug fit inside the wheel. My wheels actually have a slight taper from the inside of the rim to the center. A different wheel I had around did not have a clearance issue, so be sure to double check everything.

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If people are interested, I will post the part #'s and other info (bolt sizes-lenghts, brake fittings, etc..) I hope this gives another option for updating our brakes.

Mark
1966 Roadster
Turbo / EFI U20 (T25 w/ SDS EMU.)

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S Allen
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RE:Your Wildwood Brake Setup

Post by S Allen » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:48 pm

Very nice write-up. If you would not mind I would like to post it on the main site. Thanks.

Steve
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Myphisto

Post by Myphisto » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:22 pm

Thanks for the info. I would like to keep my 14" wheels also so this would be a great conversion.

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Re: Wilwood Dynalite Single front brake conversion

Post by ppeters914 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:44 pm

datsunrides wrote:The 4 piston conversions need a 15" wheel, if I recall correctly.
My understanding is that the 4-piston Volvo brake conversion will work with 14-inch wheels.
datsunrides wrote:The Wilwood stuff is readily available, light weight and reasonably priced.
Weight comparison? Price?

Thanks.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off in progress. What a stupid idea. :smt021
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 - no engine or trans. If I was smart, I would sell it.
A couple of Porsches, a pickup, and a motorcycle

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Post by datsunrides » Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:49 pm

This can be posted to the main site, no problem. The 4 piston conversion I was referring to was using the Wilwood 4 piston caliper, not the Volvo. I did not weight the components but using my calibrated elbow, I would say that the rotor, hat, and caliper weight about the same as the stock rotor. So the weight savings would be the weight of 2 calipers, which are pretty heavy.
As far as cost, here are the part #'s and the price I paid. All items were purchased from Summit Racing.

Rotor Hat- WIL-170-8405 $125.39 (X2)
Rotor- WIL-160-0201 $79.95 (X2)
Caliper- WIL-120-4062 $92.95 (X2)
Rotor Bolts- WIL-230-8390 $16.69 (X2)
Brake Pads- WIL-15E-6083K $51.95
SS Brake Hose- EAR-63010122ERL $12.88 (X2)
Npt to -3 adapter- EAR-962203ERL $8.69 (X2)
3/8" to -3 adapter- EAR-989543ERL $4.69 (X2)

A couple of notes, the pads are available in a variety of different compounds. The number I provided was the one recommended for street use. You also will need to include the price to have the hat machined. I had a machine shop do this work and was charged $50.00 each.

Mark
1966 Roadster
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datsunrides
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Post by datsunrides » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:38 am

True, however, I was looking farther down the line. Most parts, while still available, are steadily rising in price and will become more difficult to source. My reasoning was simply to avoid future supply issues. Since in my case I was doing a frame up resto, it made sense to me to just update during the build up. I look at it like so, strickly from a replacement cost basis.

Stock rotor- $115 ea. Wilwood rotor- $80 ea
Stock calipers- $328 for 4 Wilwood caliper $190 pr.
Pads are pretty much a wash
What will the stock stuff cost in 5-10 years?

You do have the one time cost of buying the rotor hat and having it machined but if you consider the high probability of replacing brake hoses and the metal caliper lines, I feel it is a pretty good deal, if you are not concerned with originality. I would agree it is not for everyone as it does require fabrication and stock parts are still available. Just letting others know of another alternate.

Mark
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Linda
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Post by Linda » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:57 am

Mark,
How many hours would you say it takes to do the conversion?
I like the idea of a conversion if it saves money down the road. And a car that had the conversion would be appealing to me for that reason also.
Could the conversion be done for less, in other words is this a top-of-the-line conversion?

Thanks,
Linda

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datsunrides
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Post by datsunrides » Tue Nov 28, 2006 4:35 pm

Once the hat is machined, someone who can weld and has the tools could do this over a weekend as the hardest part is welding the extension to the existing bracket. The rest is simple assembly and clearance checking. This is not a top of the line conversion, the parts I used are the least expensive offered by Wilwood. Keep in mind that Wilwood stuff is designed primarily for racing purposes and even their lower level stuff is top notch.
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Linda
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Post by Linda » Fri Dec 01, 2006 5:20 pm

Mark,
Good point about the components lasting a long time, especially since I don't drive my car much. I have to watch out for the brakes going bad from lack of use more than overuse.... Fortunately the calipers and rotors are good from the last brake job, and I even have a spare set of calipers to resleeve if I wanted.
But I am always interested in new ideas and ways to save money and this seems like a nice modification.

Linda
68 1600

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Post by datsunrides » Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:37 pm

Funny, I was just thinking today of calling them and seeing if they could supply them with the cerrect center bore and lug bolt pattern. I am going to give them a call Monday and see 1) If they can do it and 2) What the minimum order would be.

Mark
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Post by mgslayer » Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:54 am

Don't have a clue :D
Mark
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Post by Linda » Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:09 am

I am going to give them a call Monday and see 1) If they can do it and 2) What the minimum order would be.
Sounds like a group Wilwood brake project is on the way.
Mark my words... :)

Linda
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Post by datsunrides » Sat Dec 02, 2006 4:48 pm

In my best Beavis voice- Mark's are cool! :lol: Stickerman, what holes are you talking about? The hat, as supplied from Wilwood has a center bore of 2.5" or something like that and the lug patern is 4 on 4. Wilwood does offer this hat in the same offset with no lug holes drilled. This is what got me thinking about asking if they can supply it with a center bore of 2.9-3" and drill the lug pattern for 4 on 4 1/2". A group buy may not be a bad idea. If we can put together enough orders, they may be willing to do the machining and sell to us for the list price and we would save the cost and problem of having it machined after purchase. I will ask if this is a possibility on Monday. The other stuff is off the shelf stuff, so is not an issue. Linda, care to head up the group buy? :shock: :P j/k

Mark
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Post by datsunrides » Sat Dec 02, 2006 6:47 pm

Ok, I got you now. On the Wilwood calipers, 1) the "ears" are not long enough to reach where the stock caliper bolts up and 2) If it did, there is not enough material to close up the centers. I would imagine they would have to cast a new caliper half to make it work. I will ask the question, but I'm not holding my breath. I wonder how hard it would be to find someone to either stamp or cast a complete new bracket for a reasonable price?

Mark
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Post by Linda » Sat Dec 02, 2006 6:59 pm

Linda, care to head up the group buy? Shocked Razz j/k
No way, it's all ball joints, all-the-time with me.....
Besides I barely know what a caliper is and I already went thru one steep learning curve--
Mark, you're on!

Linda
(cheering from the sidelines)