crank shaft oil seal
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crank shaft oil seal
rear crank shaft seal : when I sent the block to the machine shop I neglected to take note the rear seal placement . i see two grooves outboard of the bearing , which is the correct one for the seal?
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Hi. You posted this in the “Forum Problems†category, which is primarily used for technical online issues and forum software update notifications - It doesn’t get many views. If you place your question(s) in the “General Discussion†or “The Quick/ Small/ Stupid Questions†category, it will get MANY more views that can help you out.
That being said, it’s the outside one.
* Also remember to leave about 1/8†of the seal above the mating surface when you trim it down so it will seal the ends properly.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Kai
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
I moved the topic to tech discussions.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Take your time and do this right (follow directions, which includes soaking it in oil for some time). I've done at least 4, and this is the first one I've had leak, didn't soak it first. Don't know if it's a myth but the leak sucks and there's no easy fix without pulling the crank.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
I also forgot to pre-soak the rope seal.
Fortunately, the rest of the car was no where near ready so I filled the sump with oil and sat the engine on its' backside for a month or three.
I know that may not be viable for some folks but it worked!
I have recently had the transmission and engine back plate off and there is not a trace of an oil leak
Fortunately, the rest of the car was no where near ready so I filled the sump with oil and sat the engine on its' backside for a month or three.
I know that may not be viable for some folks but it worked!
I have recently had the transmission and engine back plate off and there is not a trace of an oil leak
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
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On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Ya, mine leaks a fair amount... pisses me off. To make it worse, I'd have to remove the crank scraper I put in with special sealant etc just to get started. I'd try some "engine leak" pour in stuff but I don't have a lot of hope, and I don't know what it might do to the newer gaskets throughout the engine... grrrrrr.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Slightly off topic, but when I replaced my rear seal I referred to the tech wiki & read the instructions there. Haven’t finished my engine rebuild yet, so I can’t say if I was successful.
One thing I would like to have found was a photo of correctly installed seal. Mine bulged out some against the crank but I don’t know if it’s too much. It would be much easier to take the time to replace the seal now rather than having to pull the engine again.
As an associated question, how tight should the crank be with a new seal? I assume I should be able to turn the crank by hand on the counterweights. If someone who does these seals often could put a torque wrench on the crank & post a reading it would be quite helpful.
Peace,
Pat
One thing I would like to have found was a photo of correctly installed seal. Mine bulged out some against the crank but I don’t know if it’s too much. It would be much easier to take the time to replace the seal now rather than having to pull the engine again.
As an associated question, how tight should the crank be with a new seal? I assume I should be able to turn the crank by hand on the counterweights. If someone who does these seals often could put a torque wrench on the crank & post a reading it would be quite helpful.
Peace,
Pat
67.5 SPL311 Stroker Restomod
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02 Silverado 1500 Tow vehicle
17 Camry current daily driver
Pat Horne, Near Austin, TX
We support Habitat for Humanity
A hand UP, not a hand OUT
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Have you noticed any improvement with the scraper?Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 10:01 am Ya, mine leaks a fair amount... pisses me off. To make it worse, I'd have to remove the crank scraper I put in with special sealant etc just to get started. I'd try some "engine leak" pour in stuff but I don't have a lot of hope, and I don't know what it might do to the newer gaskets throughout the engine... grrrrrr.
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Hey Greg, there is a 50/50 chance that the leak could be from the bottom half. I took the chance and got lucky. Just a pan removal, rear bearing block and new pan gasket. I was shoving rags into the void between trans /engine as a diaper until the fix.
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2010 RAV4
1969 Datsun Roadster
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Greg.Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 10:01 am Ya, mine leaks a fair amount... pisses me off. To make it worse, I'd have to remove the crank scraper I put in with special sealant etc just to get started. I'd try some "engine leak" pour in stuff but I don't have a lot of hope, and I don't know what it might do to the newer gaskets throughout the engine... grrrrrr.
If you go the route of trying a leak sealer, I recommend ‘Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer’.
Haven’t used it myself, but I personally know three people who have. Within 2-3 weeks, two of the three leaks stopped completely and the remaining one was reduced to a manageable few drips. Those were over a year ago and the seals are still holding - I know, I was surprised too. Guess it’s not just snake oil anymore
Kai
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Not for our rope seals thoBwk2000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 12:42 pmGreg.Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 10:01 am Ya, mine leaks a fair amount... pisses me off. To make it worse, I'd have to remove the crank scraper I put in with special sealant etc just to get started. I'd try some "engine leak" pour in stuff but I don't have a lot of hope, and I don't know what it might do to the newer gaskets throughout the engine... grrrrrr.
If you go the route of trying a leak sealer, I recommend ‘Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer’.
Haven’t used it myself, but I personally know three people who have. Within 2-3 weeks, two of the three leaks stopped completely and the remaining one was reduced to a manageable few drips. Those were over a year ago and the seals are still holding - I know, I was surprised too. Guess it’s not just snake oil anymore
SPL311-02085
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
Kai
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
Halifax, N.S.
’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
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Re: crank shaft oil seal
spl310 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 12:20 pmWell, it's really hard to know since so many other variables changed at near the same time. Overall I would not recommend it due to fitment issues (A LOT of clearance work). I've been hearing a very disconcerting rattle at certain rpms, but was relieved to find its my oil dip stick vibrating against the plate. Subjectively, my engine is running noticeable cooler, but I think most if not all of that is due to the fuel injection and ignition control I have. I have no objective data to support installing one. If I do the rear main seal again, I would probably elect to keep it out.Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 24, 2022 10:01 am Ya, mine leaks a fair amount... pisses me off. To make it worse, I'd have to remove the crank scraper I put in with special sealant etc just to get started. I'd try some "engine leak" pour in stuff but I don't have a lot of hope, and I don't know what it might do to the newer gaskets throughout the engine... grrrrrr.
[/quote
Have you noticed any improvement with the scraper?
Thanks all on the sealer info... I hate having to take things apart yet again, but that seems to be my only real option.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA