Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

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Cochecita
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Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by Cochecita » Sun May 12, 2019 5:14 pm

Good afternoon to everyone,
Long time, no see. :)

In previous years, it only took about an hour in the Spring to get the roadster fired up and rolling. Part of this has always been pumping the clutch 5-10 times to build pressure back in the hydraulic system. For various reasons, Cochecita sat for almost 2 years and last week I finally got back to it. Some time on the charger, aired up the tires, sprayed a bit of starter fluid in the carbs and we were running.

Unfortunately, pumping the clutch pedal wasn't helping to build pressure. I tried some tips of banging on the master cylinder and slave cylinder while pumping it and that didn't make a difference. The fluid gets bubbly and a little frothy after working it, not sure if that's relevant. Should I be looking at replacing the slave cylinder, clutch master, or both? Anything else I should try before tearing into it?

Thank you for all your help and suggestions.

Eddie

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mraitch
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by mraitch » Sun May 12, 2019 6:44 pm

bleed, change fluid, check!
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California

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jhayden
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by jhayden » Sun May 12, 2019 6:51 pm

Welcome back!

You’ve obviously been bonded with Cochecita for a long time, so she’s not just another Fairlady. I would: replace master, slave and hose. Blow out the hard line with compressed air, then refill with SILICONE. You’re done, and you won’t be bothered with annual bleeding.

Others will no doubt chime in with reasons why NOT to do this (leaks, seal deterioration, whatever), so it’s your choice. Having done this with numerous vintage motorcycles (their brake systems are far more finicky than Fairladys) in addition to my own Fairladys, and having experienced bugerall in the way of problems, I will NEVER return to paint-eating brake fluid (except for ABS).

Floor is now open to comments from nattering nabobs of negativism.

Jon

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mraitch
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by mraitch » Sun May 12, 2019 7:01 pm

Just nattering <g> but why not take easy route, then take your advice about silicone.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California

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Linda
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by Linda » Sun May 12, 2019 7:21 pm

Clutch slave is dirt cheap from AutoZone. Or you can check the inside of yours for rust...but I wouldn't even bother.
Linda
68 1600
Los Angeles, CA
Tech Wiki->Parts->Parts Interchange
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Cochecita
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by Cochecita » Mon May 13, 2019 11:20 am

Thanks everyone, now I just need to find another window of time to dig in. This is a great group, I can't imagine owning a roadster without it.

Cheers!
Eddie and Cochecita

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FergO2k
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by FergO2k » Mon May 13, 2019 12:37 pm

OK, here's my story.
On consecutive Solvang trips, I blew the clutch master and then the clutch slave, with a roadtrip in between where I blew the hose.
If in doubt, I recommend replacing all 3 at once, and going with the braided steel / Teflon lined hose, that is one of those, "do it once, never coming back here again" kind of parts. (and at the time, there was 2 different adaptors needed at each end to go shop for, now the vendors have them complete kitted.
Then just keep an eye on the color of the fluid, and when it turns black then flush it thru (about every 1-2 years).
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door
Los Alamitos, CA

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Cochecita
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by Cochecita » Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:59 pm

Update and another thank you to the group!
I finally got a chance to tear into things. It's been quite awhile since I was really elbow deep working on the Datsun, so I have to re-remember quite a bit. I decided that replacing the slave cylinder was cheap and easy enough so I found one for a Datsun 521 and went at it. While trying to take off the rubber hose, I managed to break the hardline. :evil:

So we won't be rolling for a bit longer. I'm off to try and figure that one out before posting again. :D

Thanks Everyone

Eddie

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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both

Post by C.Costine » Sun Jun 02, 2019 5:45 am

Cochecita wrote:
Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:59 pm
Update and another thank you to the group!
I finally got a chance to tear into things. It's been quite awhile since I was really elbow deep working on the Datsun, so I have to re-remember quite a bit. I decided that replacing the slave cylinder was cheap and easy enough so I found one for a Datsun 521 and went at it. While trying to take off the rubber hose, I managed to break the hardline. :evil:

So we won't be rolling for a bit longer. I'm off to try and figure that one out before posting again. :D

Thanks Everyone

Eddie

Eddie, from my recent experience with brakes and clutch I think that chances are good that the slave cylinder will solve your problem. My '67 sat for 4-5 years before I bought it in 2000. I drove it around a little then it sat inside for 13 years before I started work on it in early '15. I have replaced all four front wheel cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder due to the water that accumulated in them. The water works its way down into the cylinders, and appears to leave the fluid in the masters in good condition thus sparing them from corrosion. I recently installed silicone brake fluid in both systems and they appear to be holding pressure just fine. I will take any opportunity now to urge owners of any old vehicles that don't get driven to bleed their brakes and get the water out.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn