What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[notoptoy]

Looks great, and awesome that you are doing it yourself!

[Gregs672000]

Congrats! Love the color and the car looks great. Good for you on doing it yourself! Your narrative reminded me of me 38 years ago doing tne same jobs for the first time. You're damn close, just the final stage of cutting and buffing. Yes, lots of work, but VERY rewarding when you see the mirror-like finish. BE SURE to follow the paint manufacturers recommendations on how long to wait before cutting and buffing. Used to be you waited a week or more, but the last time I did my car it was supposed to be done within a day or two, as the paint I chose was designed to hardened up fast and became very resistant to the buffing process so much that I worried about getting all the scratches out of it. Took twice as long. Using the same methods but different paint, I had three other cars all painted at a cheap production shop, asking them to add a few extra coats of clear, and buffed $400 paint jobs into ones that looked like $4000 mirrors (black, metallic blue and red). Take your time, watch your edges with the buffer, and you'll be smiling a lot!

Then comes putting on all the chrome n stuff... another "big smile" time coming!

[Loy]

Today I put in some Mike Young springs a nice little ~1" drop. Wasn't to bad to put in.

[cbez]

in today's episode of, if it's stupid but it works...

[Nissanman]

Hehehehe!
"Necessity is the mother of invention"

[cbez]

now if someone would invent a modern rear main seal for us lol

[Gregs672000]

Necessity truly IS the mother of invention eh? I've used a slide hammer with a bolt secured to the end to pull the rear main...

Pre-soak your rope seals! At least per Dean this will help it not leak.

[Stick]

I received some Pipercross air filters back in early January, that I never took the time to install. I'm currently running 75MM velocity stacks which make the fitment of air filters a little tight..... The filter I ordered has a 100mm internal length which provides about 25mm of space in front of the stacks.

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[Gregs672000]

Gregs think alike... these are RamAir socks on 75 (80?)mm stacks. The longer stacks have definitely improved low end torque and give a deeper intake sound vs the 40mm ones I had... wupp wupp!

[Stick]

I’m pretty sure our prior conversations may have influenced this direction!!

[Solex68]

Do either of you have the air filter models purchased and clarify if it were for the 40s or 44s? That would help others.

[Stick]

My carbs : Solex PHH44 with 75MM Stacks.

The filters were Pipercross model PX300 Air filter system C3101. (SKU C3101 +C3004).
115MM outside depth with 100MM inside depth (Box shape) . Baseplates were also included.
Purchased from the Dellorto Shop (UK) $169. - https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/e ... ystem.html

Order processing and Shipping from UK was much faster than expected and well packed.... wouldn't hesitate to buy from these guys again.

Full disclosure with 115MM filter .... you have to compress it in a certain way to clear the stacks ... there is an internal wire mesh support that bends a bit, but once you get them around it and hooked into place, you can reshape the support and all is back to normal. Have to say I love the quick attach/detach system that mates the filter to the base plate. No tools and off in seconds.

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[Gregs672000]

That's a really nice set up. The difficult part comes from working around the stacks. My foam socks are easier given there's no internal mesh, but they DO NOT filter the air as well (at all?) for the hole on the front of the carb that feeds the jets... the socks only go over the stacks. Not an issue on my throttle bodies as it's not used, but I did have to address this with the similar RamAir set up I used on the Dellortos. Given that you have demonstrated success with the Pipercross set up and the extra stuff I had to do previously that may not work for a Mikuni, I'd chose the Pipercross. As noted, it's important to have some space in front of the stack and hopefully not touching the lip/mouth as ANYTHING that does interferes with flow. BTW, the foam socks I use will not work with fully radiused stacks as they won't fit over the mouth... I was successful with the wider Mikuni stacks. I don't recall if the the socks were sold based on mm (say a 40mm Mikuni/Weber/whatever vs a 44/45mm Mikuni/Weber etc).

P.S. Greg, I don't a see a heat shield in there. If your carbs are getting hot, you may want to consider something like what I did to add a shield. Not stock of course, but it's a plate that goes under the carbs and attaches to the body. You can kinda see it in my pics. This has greatly reduced the temperature of my throttle bodies which are insulated from the manifold via the rubber mounts (good thing!). I don't have water cooling the intake manifold anymore (likely a mistake on a street car, but I followed the Bob Sharp manual). The exhaust radiates a lot of heat, even with the ceramic coating AND a Heat Shield products blanket. The stock shield is a serious hassle when it comes to working in there or just installing the carbs... hated it, and it cracked. This plate is simple, easy to remove and does a better job. Let me know if you want a pic etc.

[Stick]

Greg,
I do have a heat shield installed ... bought it from JT after I got the Solex carbs. You're correct that it's not a stock version ... .I opted for the heavy duty version. I also "wrapped" the the header with some aluminum heat shield I had from another car. No issues with carbs heating up ... .



who I had the SU's I didn't have a heat shield for a while and I definitely noticed it then.

[Stick]

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