cbez wrote: ↑Fri Feb 04, 2022 9:56 pm
Believe I fixed my intermittent high idle issue. I thought it might be an air leak but I think one of the dog bones was too tight and not allowing the linkage to return all the way back.
Well, that will be a good save if it is indeed the problem.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
I decided to brave the cold and take the car out for a short drive, the first since I replaced the rear axle bearings and seals. It was only 41 degrees F so I didn't want to drive too far. What a difference in the amount of noise coming from the back. I knew when I got the axles out I had a bad bearing just spinning it on the axle but on the bench the noise was nothing like what I heard in the car. I could hear the exhaust so much more it was amazing. Can't wait for warmer weather, Mar 1 is supposed to be nearly 60 will be driving it then for sure. Thanks for this site and the knowledge base it contains, amazing.
rebuilt dads 67.5 1600
1952 GMC 302ci 6cyl w/cam and 3 deuces
1965 Mustang (Wife's)
1971 Nova (Son Claimed)
Painted the steering wheel hub...which turned into replacing one of the exhaust bushings while I was out in the garage (I bought the red ones and they pretty much all turned to mud..kinda grumpy about that). Then looking at leaks...then pulling out two oil pan bolts to put some thread seal on...then said f it and took off the oil filter housing (again) and fuel pump (first time). Both had some minor leaks against the block. I've had gaskets for them from Ron but I've just been putting it off.
First piston came out easily and I was congratulating myself on an easy disassembly and then I searched it on the forum and realized there was a back piston After hours of lubing and banging master cylinder to disassemble (yes, I tried compressed air) Decided to use a grease gun and pump the back piston out. If I had done this first I could have saved at least 4 hours. Even though piston was stuck there seems to be no damage to bore. I had repeatedly lubed and depressed piston. In the picture you can see my setup I placed firewall grommets in the reservoir bore, taped in place and clamped a washer over reservoir. Then threaded a grease fitting in bleeder screw(did not over tighten just snug) A few pumps later the piston was on its way. Managed to save 2 original master cylinders.
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New addition 1959 Bugeye Sprite
68 solex rolling chassis
67 spl311 original
67 custom rotary spl311
68 spl311 donor car
Been having a long term problem getting this to seal perfectly despite getting clean, flat surfaces... so I got a second one on ebay just to see if it helped. Cleaned up nice. Right stuff on the threads to the block (btw what the hell threads are they... none of my SAE taps were right even though it is an early block).
Then right stuff lightly on both sides of one of Ron's laser cut gaskets. We'll see.
Speaking of Right stuff, what say you all as to oil pan sealing? Gasket and Right stuff or just RS alone or gasket and other permatex type sealant. And it always seems to me that factory torque value is too loose.