Door limiter- question-installation
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Door limiter- question-installation
I need help reinstalling the driver side door limiter. I think I have it figured out from the previous posts and pictures. But I am not 100% sure. I am inserting the limiter through the small access hole in the foot well. Running the limiter horizontally through a small notch inside the pillar and attaching the limiter to the door by way of a pin. Is that it ? What is to keep the limiter in place ? The small notch does not appear to be substantial enough to hold it up. I assume the limiter is free moving inside the footwell panel.. but...it doesn't seem right. Am I missing something here?
Thank you for your help.
Tim
Akron, Ohio
Thank you for your help.
Tim
Akron, Ohio
1968 1600 Roadster
Link to pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20862891@N07/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Link to pictures:
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
You don't mention if you have the big thick cushion block on it.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
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1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Key #37 is the limiter and has a rubber "donut" around the shaft.
Be careful with the pin length, key #38: too long and it will foul on the hole in the "A" pillar
Rallye has a good pic. of it: -
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Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Where does one get part #38?
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
It is a standard clevis pin. I bought a blister pack of various sizes and used two for the limiters.
As I said, make sure the replacement pin doesn't drop down too far it will foul on the pillar sheet metal.
I cut them off with just enough pin exposed to drill a hole and fit an "R" clip to retain it.
As I said, make sure the replacement pin doesn't drop down too far it will foul on the pillar sheet metal.
I cut them off with just enough pin exposed to drill a hole and fit an "R" clip to retain it.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Isn't the bottom hole on the door mount smaller than the top hole?
Did you drill the holes the same size or was the bottom hole wallowed out?
Did you drill the holes the same size or was the bottom hole wallowed out?
'69 1600 with SR20DE
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
The door holes were ovalled out so I re-drilled to take a slightly larger diameter clevis pin.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Hi everybody,
I figured out my problem. In the door pillar there is or should be a heavy wire guide held in place by what appear to be two screws. The flat part of the limiter passes in between the two heavy wire gauge guides. The guides, not only support the limiter, but also engage with the clips on the limiter to hold the door open. I have this setup on the passenger door, but the heavy wire guide is missing on the drivers door. Thus there is no provision for holding the door open. The limiter will keep the door from hyper extending, but will flop around so to speak, since it is not being held in place by the guides. The one screw/bolt has been torn off, while I don't think there is any way to get the other unscrewed. I am absolutely open to any suggestions. Is it even possible to get some type of guide in place.
Tim
I figured out my problem. In the door pillar there is or should be a heavy wire guide held in place by what appear to be two screws. The flat part of the limiter passes in between the two heavy wire gauge guides. The guides, not only support the limiter, but also engage with the clips on the limiter to hold the door open. I have this setup on the passenger door, but the heavy wire guide is missing on the drivers door. Thus there is no provision for holding the door open. The limiter will keep the door from hyper extending, but will flop around so to speak, since it is not being held in place by the guides. The one screw/bolt has been torn off, while I don't think there is any way to get the other unscrewed. I am absolutely open to any suggestions. Is it even possible to get some type of guide in place.
Tim
1968 1600 Roadster
Link to pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20862891@N07/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Link to pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20862891@N07/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
I couldn't find a clevis with an exact match - so I drilled the hole on the limiter to 1/4, and as mentioned appropriately shortened the clevis.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
I'm going to reply to this old thread.
Three things.
Instead of using clevis pins I used Binding barrels, McMaster-Carr 94887A359. The length needed to be reduced by about 1/16" bu it worked fine. The smaller screw fit through the smaller bottom hole & tightened down on the bottom metal jsut fine. I added a touch of blue locktite to the screw.
As Tim asked, what do you do to repair the guide inside the body that holds the door open? One of mine is also pulled free. Without the part on place the limiter can bond on he body, keeping the door from closing. Anyone know the best way to reattach it?
Finally, on the door limiter that is still intact, even greasing the limiter when I open the door fully, there is horrendous noise from the limiter sliding up onto the guide in the body. Is there something better than wheel bearing grease or any other way to kill the noise?
Three things.
Instead of using clevis pins I used Binding barrels, McMaster-Carr 94887A359. The length needed to be reduced by about 1/16" bu it worked fine. The smaller screw fit through the smaller bottom hole & tightened down on the bottom metal jsut fine. I added a touch of blue locktite to the screw.
As Tim asked, what do you do to repair the guide inside the body that holds the door open? One of mine is also pulled free. Without the part on place the limiter can bond on he body, keeping the door from closing. Anyone know the best way to reattach it?
Finally, on the door limiter that is still intact, even greasing the limiter when I open the door fully, there is horrendous noise from the limiter sliding up onto the guide in the body. Is there something better than wheel bearing grease or any other way to kill the noise?
67.5 SPL311 Stroker Restomod
02 Silverado 1500 Tow vehicle
17 Camry current daily driver
Pat Horne, Near Austin, TX
We support Habitat for Humanity
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02 Silverado 1500 Tow vehicle
17 Camry current daily driver
Pat Horne, Near Austin, TX
We support Habitat for Humanity
A hand UP, not a hand OUT
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
I used the binding barrels as well. Bought a stainless one from McMaster Carr that fit perfectly.
99637A30
18-8 Stainless Steel Binding Barrel and Screw, 10-24 Thread Size, for 1/4"-3/8" Material Thickness
99637A30
18-8 Stainless Steel Binding Barrel and Screw, 10-24 Thread Size, for 1/4"-3/8" Material Thickness
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Great info on the binding barrels. I added both Pat and Curtis's comments here in the wiki--
Door stops
Thanks.
Steve
Door stops
Thanks.
Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
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67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
My car had a pair of canvas straps acting as limiters. Was that ever factory, or a previous owner's fix based on the rust in those areas?
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
No. Most likely, the triangle brackets ripped out of the door.
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
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Re: Door limiter- question-installation
Ooo, sins of previous owners. One of mine was gone and the body guy had to cut it open to fix it.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.