Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

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JT68
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Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:20 pm

How many of you have had the pleasure of changing a clutch in the Roadster? Oh boy, time to pull the engine...

Back in the late 90's I started using 240z clutches with the U20 because with a souped up U and hard driving, it is pretty easy to wipe out a stock clutch-cheap 510 clutches don't stand a chance and most oem Nissan clutches didn't survive past about 80k miles-that speaks volumes.

I realized that for most street roadsters, a 240 clutch could potentially be the ONLY clutch you would ever have to install. The one minor downside to the larger clutch is almost exactly one pound of additional weight. so lightening the steel FW was the solution back in the day. It worked, and it worked really well.

Now available is possibly the best Flywheel and Clutch option for any roadster with a U, R or H/Stroker engine:

New 11 lb Aluminum Flywheel with a hardened steel wear surface and machined for the 240 plate. You can use any decent 240Z clutch and forget about it. A Dakin/Exedy plate is perfect and cost less than 1/2 the price of a 2000 clutch if you shop around.

With the HD 240 plate, the assembly only weighs 22lbs, which is about 9 lbs lighter than the OEM clutch and FW. Most importantly, the 240 disc has !40%! increased surface area which equates to a 40% increase in torque capacity and terrifically improved wear characteristics.

The weight distribution for the 240 clutch is on a 1" larger diameter surface, which makes the moment of inertia higher. This means the flywheel with the 240 plate will feel a little heavier than it would with a stock clutch. The best way to think of it is the same or better performance to a very light steel FW, but not as light as a full on racing FW.

So here you have a lightened assembly that is not SO light that it difficult/annoying to drive on the street, and an ALMOST INDESTRUCTIBLE clutch with no real weight penalty - (basically the same as a radically lightened stock FW and factory plate).

Since the release levers on the 240 plate are a little longer, there is no increase in pedal effort with the substantial increase in torque capacity. You also use the commonly available 240z throw-out bearing.

You could even race with this unit since kevlar/composite 240z racing discs are available. This would also be awesome for vintage racing etc, where you aren't planning on removing the engine very often.

I HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE A 240 CLUTCH THAT WAS INSTALLED ON A ROADSTER - The same clutch was also used in 2400cc trucks, so you know it is pretty rugged.

Don't waste your money on an expensive 2L clutch that WILL ultimately wear out! I haven't bought a stock roadster clutch in probably 20 years...put one of these in and forget about it.
USA/CNC quality part. (No China parts here!!)

Intro price 450 (Flywheel only) and limited availability.


If you plan on keeping your Datsun a long time/will stay in the family - this is for you...




Disclaimer: These flywheels are manufactured by a company that builds flywheels commercially. This is a copy of a Tilton design that is intended for racing. As with all racing parts, it is not approved for street use.
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Last edited by JT68 on Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:32 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:23 pm

Here is a shot of the difference in the wearing surface for a stock clutch disc vs. the 240 plate...even the casual observer can see the huge improvement in surface area with virtually no weight penalty...
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jrusso07
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by jrusso07 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:16 am

Very cool JT68. I read that only the OEM Nissan throw out bearing can handle the heavier spring pressure of the U20 clutch plate. What bearing do you use with this set up? I have the 240Z plate, disc and bearing in the loft...left overs from my 240Z which I sold.
Joe

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1970 SPL311 - U20 mod
1970 SRL311
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JT68
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:53 am

Great question-

A regular 240z bearing presses on the roadster bearing sleeve perfectly (I love Nissan). Currently about half the price of a roadster bearing. Direct fit, no mods.

The 240 bearing is heavy duty and designed for the 240 plate. j



ps, if the disc you have is 8 7/8" (225 mm), you have everything you need. A complete 240 Dakin/Exedy clutch is only about 100$ for the whole kit w/bearing. :)
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cktrap
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by cktrap » Sat Feb 27, 2016 9:13 am

I'm bumming just bought the u20 set up a month ago. Love what you do for the roadsters. How about a web site with a list of all your products, just saying.
keith
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Linda
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by Linda » Sat Feb 27, 2016 11:22 am

JT,
Some questions:
Why wouldn't the 240 z clutch wear?
Are you saying the 240 clutch kit can work on a Roadster flywheel or is it necessary to get the flywheel you provide?
Is the pressure needed to push in the clutch the same as the U20, or how does it compare?
Is the stock slave cylinder used?
This seems like a nice little secret upgrade :)
Keeping the cars on the road with durable parts like this is useful, though I had thought the U20 clutch lasted well-- not sure how long though.
Kind of a "hot rod" part though eh JT? :wink:

Linda 8)
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fj20spl311
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by fj20spl311 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 12:26 pm

IIRC, you can also use a "1500" flywheel for a 225 mm clutch.

My FJ20E uses a 225 mm clutch and I got about 50,000 miles on the clutch before I replaced the disc.
The FJ20ET uses a 240 mm disc
Phil
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 1:00 pm

Linda wrote:JT,
Some questions:
Why wouldn't the 240 z clutch wear?
Are you saying the 240 clutch kit can work on a Roadster flywheel or is it necessary to get the flywheel you provide?
Is the pressure needed to push in the clutch the same as the U20, or how does it compare?
Is the stock slave cylinder used?
This seems like a nice little secret upgrade :)
Keeping the cars on the road with durable parts like this is useful, though I had thought the U20 clutch lasted well-- not sure how long though.
Kind of a "hot rod" part though eh JT? :wink:

Linda 8)
Yes, of course the 240 disc will wear some, but it will far outlast a 2L disc-that should be pretty obvious by looking at the two. With normal driving you may never wear it out. (of course anything can be destroyed if abused)

Yes, a 240z 225 clutch can be put on a stock roadster FW. It has to be done on a mill with a rotary table because it has to be centered precisely. The 6 bolt holes have to be relocated and the locating 3 dowel pins. It is a precision operation, and of course the unit should be balanced. But it works perfectly. (and the whole clutch kit cost around 100$)

If you do use a 240z clutch on the stock FW, it should be lightened because you have increased both the absolute weight and the moment of inertia with more outboard weight.

Using AL more than makes up for that and gets a part that is almost as light as the NISMO flywheel.

I attempted to address pedal pressure in the first post. Because the release levers on the 240 plate are longer, the increase in force really isn't felt at all. Certainly no large increase in pressure. No change to the slave cylinder.

There is no reason to debate the stock disc versus the 225mm disc. With equivalent wearing materials the 225 will handle much more torque and last much longer. A kevlar 240 disc will take far more abuse than a kevlar roadster disc.

I know you were poking fun Linda, but yes, it is a hotrod part in the same spirit as NISMO parts are..like Mikuni, comp springs, 7 quart pan, OEM Aluminum FW etc....and of course you can't see it when you lift the hood.....
Last edited by JT68 on Sat Feb 27, 2016 1:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by spyder » Sat Feb 27, 2016 1:01 pm

I have had excellent results using a stock size kevlar disk. The one on the right is after 5 years of heavy thrashing. Left one is new, just because I had the engine out and was not sure what condition the disk was in.

Image

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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 2:01 pm

This is an AL performance Flywheel,

If you want a light flywheel for performance reasons, it costs about the same as one for a stock clutch, weighs almost the same as the Tilton FW, but provides two excellent advantages:

1) A good 240z clutch assembly costs about $100. A good roadster clutch costs 3 times that....

2) Greatly improved wear (and torque) characteristics all things being equal.


If you don't mind pulling the engine sooner or later, don't want an AL FW, prefer to pay 300+ for a clutch, that's cool, just use a stock clutch - no issue.

If you want a light AL flywheel with a very tough clutch (heavier duty than ANY roadster clutch), here yah go.

To each their own!
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Linda
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by Linda » Sat Feb 27, 2016 2:19 pm

You got it, JT, always keeping it light-hearted :)
But seriously, :) this seems like another nice upgrade, so thanks for working it out!

Linda
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 4:33 pm

Thanks Linda. It is an awesome combination. Anyone who has the engine out right now, wants a tough clutch, wants a light flywheel or plans to keep their car a long time, should seriously consider it. The AL. Flywheel really helps the engines rev. The z clutch is just money well spent. J
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by Linda » Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:20 pm

Seems like this would be a good selling point for a car, and if buying a Roadster, a clutch like this would be a big plus so that you don't have to pull the engine to do a new clutch.
So many car ads fail to mention the state of the clutch.
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by fj20spl311 » Sun Feb 28, 2016 3:30 am

Pulling the engine to replace the clutch is no big deal, its all "the while you are there" distractions that add up.
Phil
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Re: Best Flywheel & Clutch - last one you will buy!

Post by JT68 » Sun Feb 28, 2016 7:32 am

fj20spl311 wrote:Pulling the engine to replace the clutch is no big deal, its all "the while you are there" distractions that add up.

Removing the engine, and especially if you have to pay someone to do it, is certainly a very big deal and a major expense for most roadster owners. Involves disassembling/ breaking into every major engine system and putting it back all back together properly. That isn't easy or cheap for most people, Just a PIA.

A light AL flywheel is certainly a desirable part for many.

A VERY heavy duty clutch with almost no weight penalty, at greatly reduced cost, that will outlast a stock clutch is a win-win.

There really isn't much not to love here....

(You can still pull the engine any time you like for fun and recreation!)
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