Choke Cable Rebuild

Place to put all stickies after a month.

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exit64
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Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by exit64 »

My choke cables were too short after years of being cut by previous owners. I was going to buy a new assembly but decided to see if mine could be repaired first. I'm glad I did as changing the cable and housings cost me a whopping $9.50 and two hours of time. Here's how I did it.
1. Remove choke assembly form the radio console. Watch for the spacer that falls off when you pull the assembly out of the back of the console. About 1/8th in thick and tends to roll to a hard to reach spot.
2. Remove the end of the assembly where the two cables exit. I did this by putting the choke assembly in a vise and gently working the end off with channel locks. It is swedged to the housing but can be slid off with very little effort. Once off, the choke slide can be pulled out the end of the housing. Don't pull it all the way out until you take a digital pic of make a drawing of how it all goes back together.. Don't ask me how I know. Once you do that, pull the slide out the end of the assembly and push the square plate that holds cable out of the slide assembly.
3. Cut the cable and remove from the housing.
4. Go to the local bicycle shop and get a brake cable for a tandem bike. It is plenty long so if you fray the cable you can cut it shorter again and still have plenty to work with. Get new housing also. The cable should be the bigger size. 1.5 mm and I like the Shimano housing. A little bit more money but worth it in the long run. I know this from building and riding mountian bikes. Use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the cable. Wrap the cable with masking tape and cut thru the tape and the cable won't fray.
5. Unscrew the old cables from the housing by turning them counter clock wise. Mine came right out but left the old plasic in the hole. I just drilled it out on the drill press. Cut the new housing to the right length and put them into the metal housing. If they are a bit loose that's OK they get glued into the housing. Stand housing on end in a vise with the cablehousing sticking out and then use JB Weld quick set to glue them in place. The JB should go around the out side of the metal housing and around the cable housing about a half inch up. Then put a wrap of masking tape around the uncured JB Weld to hold it in place while it cures. Make for a nice neat look and the tape comes right off once the Weld is cured.
6. Take the new cable and cut the metal ends off and then halve the cable and put each end into sqaure metal plate with the two holes. There is will be a short side and a long side. Once you adjust the length, push the cable down flat to the sqaure plate. Put the plate back in the slide assembly and pull the slide assembly all the way back into the choke assembly. This will leave some play in the cable when you put the end back on the choke assembly.
7. Thread the cable ends into the new housings and push them thru the being careful not to fray the ends. Now slide the end over the choke assembly. DO NOT kink the cable or it will not slide thru its full range once reassembled. Once the end is on and working freely take an punch and swedge the end back onto the choke assembly. Reinstall in the car.
Hope this helps someone save some money and have a smoother choke set up.
Mike
1967.5 SPL 311-14542 Pieces-parts
1969 SRL 311-09979
1966 411 Blackbird....Stay tuned.
1971 B110 757213 About to unleash 69 HP @6000 RPM
A carburetor man in a fuel injection world.
"Ripping the Bring* and sanding it round"
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ppeters914
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Post by ppeters914 »

Nice write up!

Hey, Steve, I'm thinking this shouldn't end up buried in the forums, but be an article in the Restoration Tips or Engine Tech Info.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off in progress. What a stupid idea. :smt021
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S Allen
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RE:Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by S Allen »

Yep, I will add it along with all of his other great info he keeps posting of late. Keep 'em coming. 8)

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
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dbrick
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Post by dbrick »

Just to clarify, was the outer casing too short, the inner wire too short, or both?

Dave Brisco

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exit64
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Post by exit64 »

Outer casing was cracked and on the verge of being too short. The inner cable was so short that there no way not to have at least 1/4 inch of choke pulled all the time. The cable also looked like used dental floss it was so frayed. I just got back from my first good drive in this car after owning it since April. There's a hole in the exhaust pipe and the rear has a little growl in hard cornering to the right but it still put a grin on my face. So to sum it up, there were 3 problems that has been keeping this one from running well, carbs needed to be tuned up, choke cables were too short, and the distributor was shot. Problems solved and she's a runner now! :D
Mike
AKA Exit64
1967.5 SPL 311-14542 Pieces-parts
1969 SRL 311-09979
1966 411 Blackbird....Stay tuned.
1971 B110 757213 About to unleash 69 HP @6000 RPM
A carburetor man in a fuel injection world.
"Ripping the Bring* and sanding it round"
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S Allen
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RE:Choke cable rebuild

Post by S Allen »

Put it in the wiki. This is for the early choke cable.

http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... ChokeCable

Thanks Mike.

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67.5 Stroker-Purple-gifting to my daughter
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
Jimmers74
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by Jimmers74 »

What is the correct length of each housing? I understand it can be cut to fit, but what is the standard dimension?
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spl310
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by spl310 »

Jimmers74 wrote: Thu Dec 03, 2020 10:18 pm What is the correct length of each housing? I understand it can be cut to fit, but what is the standard dimension?
If someone has NOS choke cables, the dimensions would be a welcome addition to the Tech Wiki.
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little

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1967.5 2000
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1964 1500
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1968 chassis
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C.Costine
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by C.Costine »

I have a set of cables from a '68 that hasn't been driven since 1975. The housings measure 31 and 37.25, and the cables are both 2.75" inches longer withy the knob all the way in. The ends have nearly no fraying.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
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spl310
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by spl310 »

C.Costine wrote: Fri Dec 04, 2020 11:23 am I have a set of cables from a '68 that hasn't been driven since 1975. The housings measure 31 and 37.25, and the cables are both 2.75" inches longer withy the knob all the way in. The ends have nearly no fraying.
1600 or 2000?
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little

1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2000 Durango
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
todd lorber
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by todd lorber »

There was a choke rebuild post in the tech wiki which I found extremely helpful-saved me like $190.00 on one choke cable.
Also, I had one cable that was a bit frayed at the end. I was able to use some flux, solder, a micro torch to stick the strands together-kind of like the end of a shoe lace. It was a bit difficult holding the cable twisted while soldering without a 3rd hand, but it was doable. The cable now goes through the carb easily.
C.Costine
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by C.Costine »

spl310 wrote: Fri Dec 04, 2020 1:34 pm
C.Costine wrote: Fri Dec 04, 2020 11:23 am I have a set of cables from a '68 that hasn't been driven since 1975. The housings measure 31 and 37.25, and the cables are both 2.75" inches longer withy the knob all the way in. The ends have nearly no fraying.
1600 or 2000?


It is a 1600.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
User avatar
spl310
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Re: Choke Cable Rebuild

Post by spl310 »

Anyone with a 2000?
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little

1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2000 Durango
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...