Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

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sfdaugherty
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Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by sfdaugherty » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:42 am

I just purchased urethane tie rod boots, ball joint boots, and bump stops from zpartshouse. I purchased enough for both cars for about $100 for both cars. The original boots have turned to mush.

I have a set of original tie rods and a center link (with original rubber boots) so I was able to test fit the urethane boots and noticed that the design is quite different. The original boots snap into a groove on the tie rod ends but the urethane boots just slide over.

Any comments or concerns over this design?

By the way, I got them in RED.

Shannon
69 2000 SRL311-10088 (Type 4 Solexes)
68 SR20DE SPL311-18735 (SR20DE S15 Autech)
68 2000 SRL311-01179 (Waiting patiently for restoration)
69 2000 SRL311-10485 (1/2 owner) (Type 2 Solexes)
68 1600 SPL311-20462 SOLD! After 41 years in the family

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Linda
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by Linda » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:55 am

Maybe you could post a pic so that it is easier to visualize the difference.
Thanks,

Linda
68 1600
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sfdaugherty
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by sfdaugherty » Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:02 pm

Linda:

Good idea. I'll test out my photography skills tonight.

Shannon
69 2000 SRL311-10088 (Type 4 Solexes)
68 SR20DE SPL311-18735 (SR20DE S15 Autech)
68 2000 SRL311-01179 (Waiting patiently for restoration)
69 2000 SRL311-10485 (1/2 owner) (Type 2 Solexes)
68 1600 SPL311-20462 SOLD! After 41 years in the family

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Skyman
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by Skyman » Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:12 pm

Shannon, they are different. I went with urethane boots. They do not use the clips like the old rubber boots. I was a bit skeptical at first. After a short time, they conformed well. One good thing is, you don't need to worry about blowing out the boot by over greasing.

Kyle
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ppeters914
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by ppeters914 » Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:47 pm

Skyman wrote:One good thing is, you don't need to worry about blowing out the boot by over greasing.
Damn. Now I learn that...... :oops:
Pete
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It's a D-A-T-S-U-N
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by It's a D-A-T-S-U-N » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:09 pm

Installed the Energy Suspension urethane ball joint and tie rod boots on our 1970 SPL during the brake and suspension renovation. Although the design is different (no snap ring/clamp), they seem to work OK, keeping the grease in and the elements out. If you started with components in good condition and grease the chassis @ every engine oil change interval, should be OK.
1968 SPL311
2000 Acura Integra GSR
2002 Honda S2000

het976

Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by het976 » Fri Jun 05, 2009 10:08 am

I have the same items from Dean at Datsun Parts and the same concern. When I assembled them this week I put a thin washer on the top. When everything is bolted together the boots do seem to seal fine.

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sfdaugherty
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by sfdaugherty » Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:50 pm

Here are the photos of the pieces. I hope they are clear enough to show the differences.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
69 2000 SRL311-10088 (Type 4 Solexes)
68 SR20DE SPL311-18735 (SR20DE S15 Autech)
68 2000 SRL311-01179 (Waiting patiently for restoration)
69 2000 SRL311-10485 (1/2 owner) (Type 2 Solexes)
68 1600 SPL311-20462 SOLD! After 41 years in the family

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dbrick
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by dbrick » Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:56 am

ppeters914 wrote:
Skyman wrote:One good thing is, you don't need to worry about blowing out the boot by over greasing.
Damn. Now I learn that...... :oops:
I usually add a vent hole or two with the pickle fork, so blowout is not an issue. :D
I got the same urethanes at Solvang, I'll find out soon how they work. My "brand new" Nissan joints are so old the rubber boots turned to very sticky black goo in the box.

Dave Brisco

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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by bikermike » Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:19 pm

Reviving an old thread...

How large a vent hole is recommended?
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring

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K1200 GT
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by K1200 GT » Sun Jul 21, 2013 9:03 pm

He was joking...hope anyway. Dont put any holes in them. Thats a good place for water and dirt to get in.
The old ones could be tore with a pickle fork just taking them off.

Rich
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by bikermike » Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:29 pm

Doh! That went over my head. Makes sense. My old ones have turned to mush.
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring

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eastmedia
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by eastmedia » Mon Jul 22, 2013 12:19 pm

My original post on this.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2435&hilit=boots+option" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My website from my initial installation.
http://higenki.com/roadster/suspension.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ron
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zippy67roadster
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by zippy67roadster » Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:01 pm

Did installing these tighten up the front a little. I mean the originals were soft pliable rubber and these are hard urethane. I have a set and am planning on putting them on in the next few weeks and I was just wondering if there is a noticeable difference.
1967 Datsun SPL311-08935-vintage race car
1967 Datsun SPL311-10123 project
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots

Post by FergO2k » Tue Jul 23, 2013 12:04 am

No, no handling difference, the urethane is a lot softer than you are thinking, not like urethane suspension bushings.

Its all about the Shore scale.
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
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