The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

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space
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by space »

my 67.5 has an intermittent rattle
similar to a loose exhaust heat shield
Ive checked the engine compartment and tightened up any possible causes
No Luck
Any have ideas as to where to look next?
TIA
T

C.Costine
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by C.Costine »

What RPM range? moving or stationary?
located in Chester NH
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space
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by space »

both moving and stationary

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Mainer311
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Mainer311 »

I had an RPM specific rattle. It was the heat shield under the SU's. Fairly common problem.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".

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2mAn
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by 2mAn »

Didnt get an answer about the exhaust, but I will try to figure that out on my own...

I do have a VERY important question though, and it revolves around the running lights & headlights. The running lights are a pull switch yes, with two "stopping points" for just the running lights and for turning on the headlights, correct? They were working fine until recently when Will put the correct fuse and suddenly everything stopped working. I feel the switch itself is toast. Is there anyway to test this and confirm that the switch is the problem?

ImageLight it up by 2mAn

With this said, what is the piece that is to the right of the headlight switch? haha
Simon
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Mainer311
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Mainer311 »

That's your hand throttle. Looks like the knob is broken.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".

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pebbles
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by pebbles »

AC77 wrote:If that's the case, how do I fix that?
Remove pad. Apply some crc disc brake quiet. Reinstall pad.
David




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pebbles
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by pebbles »

2mAn wrote:My car has an exhaust leak right after the header. To save myself a headache later, I plan to weld a flexjoint here along with an exhaust flange to make removal easy in the future, especially when I upgrade the exhaust system later.

My question is, roughly where should I have all of this installed? Is there a spot where the flange would be ideal and not need to be modified again later?
Depends on what your driving style is. The header collector is a very critical part of the exhaust performance. Which is often overlooked.
Aft of the collector.
David




"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."

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2mAn
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by 2mAn »

Mainer311 wrote:That's your hand throttle. Looks like the knob is broken.
Like the choke? ... so not needed?
pebbles wrote:
2mAn wrote:My car has an exhaust leak right after the header. To save myself a headache later, I plan to weld a flexjoint here along with an exhaust flange to make removal easy in the future, especially when I upgrade the exhaust system later.

My question is, roughly where should I have all of this installed? Is there a spot where the flange would be ideal and not need to be modified again later?
Depends on what your driving style is. The header collector is a very critical part of the exhaust performance. Which is often overlooked.
Aft of the collector.
I have to get under this car, to at least start the penetration of the seat bolts, so I will see what it looks like down there, I sure hope the leak is after the collector!
Simon
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-2003 Mini Cooper R50 - Daily Driver
-2002 Toyota MR2 - Dream Chaser

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Mainer311
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Mainer311 »

No, like a gas pedal, but on your dash. It's helpful in setting a high idle to help the car warm up when it's cold. Some people use it like a cruise control.

I'm currently in the process of fixing mine.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".

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2mAn
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by 2mAn »

Mainer311 wrote:No, like a gas pedal, but on your dash. It's helpful in setting a high idle to help the car warm up when it's cold. Some people use it like a cruise control.

I'm currently in the process of fixing mine.
haha thats awesome, I never knew that! What is it supposed to look like? I will have to see if its connected
Simon
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-2003 Mini Cooper R50 - Daily Driver
-2002 Toyota MR2 - Dream Chaser

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AidanDawn2000
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by AidanDawn2000 »

2mAn wrote: haha thats awesome, I never knew that! What is it supposed to look like? I will have to see if its connected
Its nice to use it to warm the engine up in the mornings but imo it's a bit sketchy using it for cruse control. In an emergency your not going to remember you had it on and then the engine will be fighting you while you're trying to brake.

As for Headlights, the '68 fuse box is a little temperamental in my experience. I usually have to give it a jiggle to get the head lights on. should be a 30A fuse.
Oil a little low? Time to get a longer dipstick:)
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Mainer311
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Mainer311 »

AidanDawn2000 wrote:
As for Headlights, the '68 fuse box is a little temperamental in my experience. I usually have to give it a jiggle to get the head lights on. should be a 30A fuse.
I recommend changing the glass fuses, even if they look okay, and sanding the contacts. They're known for corroding, causing high impedance, and heating up to the point of catching things on fire. I once had a headlight problem, and I traced it back to a fuse that looked okay, but the filament was disconnecting in the end cap where it could not be seen. Voltage on one side of the fuse, but hardly any voltage on the output side when the lights were on.

Another good solution is to replace the fuses with an ATO style fuse holder.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".

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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Curtis »

Mainer311 wrote:
AidanDawn2000 wrote:
As for Headlights, the '68 fuse box is a little temperamental in my experience. I usually have to give it a jiggle to get the head lights on. should be a 30A fuse.
I recommend changing the glass fuses, even if they look okay, and sanding the contacts. They're known for corroding, causing high impedance, and heating up to the point of catching things on fire. I once had a headlight problem, and I traced it back to a fuse that looked okay, but the filament was disconnecting in the end cap where it could not be seen. Voltage on one side of the fuse, but hardly any voltage on the output side when the lights were on.

Another good solution is to replace the fuses with an ATO style fuse holder.
Check for loose rivet on the fuse connector.
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Mainer311
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Mainer311 »

2mAn wrote:
Mainer311 wrote:No, like a gas pedal, but on your dash. It's helpful in setting a high idle to help the car warm up when it's cold. Some people use it like a cruise control.

I'm currently in the process of fixing mine.
haha thats awesome, I never knew that! What is it supposed to look like? I will have to see if its connected
Take a look at the throttle linkage. There should be the connection from the floor pedal at the bottom of the linkage, and a second, higher cable going straight back into the firewall. The higher cable is the hand throttle connection. Look in the area directly below the hood latch.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".