Stroker Poll

Tech tips and how to's

Moderators: notoptoy, garth, S Allen

Any interest in gathering stroker data to share with all?

Yes, I will submit information soon.
30
65%
Maybe, let me get back to you.
14
30%
Naw, a big waste of time-move on.
2
4%
 
Total votes: 46

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S Allen
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Stroker Poll

Post by S Allen » Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:02 am

So Mike Hudson came up with a cool idea to see if we could gather data from the different stroker builds out there. There is more than one way to approach this project for sure. Mike's questions follow:

1. Head, valves, intake manifold modifications
2. Pistons (custom, H20 dished, U20 flat tops, or other)
3. Camshaft grind and by what company; any and all specs you can provide: intake duration, exhaust duration (if different), and lift. These
specs are often given with an advertised lift number such as .050", or some other number by the grinder)
4. Valve lash
5. Carburetors 1600 or 2000 (or other, FI, etc.)
6. Carb jet size .090 or .010
7. Carb needle designation (this NOT the needle and seat in the float chamber)
8. Ignition distributor (stock or electronic, Gary Boone EI, etc.)
9. Timing settings
10. Cooling system (stock R16, U20, or custom radiators) thermostat temperature, and average running temperature
11. Any other additional comments or info that maybe useful, relevant, or just want to share

This information could be collected into a database and made available to other Roadster / Stroker owners for tuning and performance info.


So this sounds like a great idea to me. Any interest?

Steve
66 Stroker-Viper Blue Eventually
67.5 Stroker-Purple
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth

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23yrRebuild
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Post by 23yrRebuild » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:15 pm

Okay, I guess I'll get the ball rolling. It's a lot of info to put down but that's what could make this poll useful.

1. Head, valves, intake manifold modifications---Stock R16 Head - 3.216 thick, stock valves,
stock intake manifold, no porting or polishing. Combustion chambers cc'd at about 48 cc's.

2. Pistons, rods, and crankshaft---New, standard bore U20 pistons w/Perfect Circle rings and
used U20 rods, New NISMO stroker crankshaft with std main and rod bearings. Block has not
been decked providing a stock deck clearance of .023. Various calculator programs
estimate the compression ratio is about 9.4:1. An ARP Head Stud kit allowed a tight
clamping force of 70 ft/lbs.

3. Camshaft grind---Isky DR-66, Isky specs: Duration=266, Duration @ .050 = 228, Intake =
24 - 62, Exhaust = 62 - 24, Overlap = 48 deg., Cam lift = .298, Valve lift = .420 (this would
indicate a rocker ratio of about 1.41:1, stock is ratio is 1.46:1), different cam companies
use different ratios for this spec as well as using 0 deg. valve lash or normal running lash.
This is a tricky one, and I can only verify actual movement of the top of the spring retainer
with a dial indicator. Readings from two valves were .436 and .444.

4. Valve lash --- .020 hot

5. Carburetors --- Stock 1600, no mods, ATF damper oil

6. Carb jet size .090 or .010 --- stock .090 jet, adjusted .026 down from top of bridge (a
little over a full turn out from full lean)

7. Carb needle designation --- ADQ needle as recommended by Keith Williams for stock R16.
Needle shoulder is set .015 out from pistons.

8. Ignition distributor (stock or electronic, Gary Boone EI, etc.)----Gary Boone EI Distributor

9. Timing settings --- 20 degrees static, and running with vacuum advance

10. Cooling system--- U20 Radiator with lower air scoop/deflector, 14" Imperial (Hayden
electric fan, Derale adjustable thermostat (set to apporoximately 160*), 160*
thermostat. It actually does run at 160* even on 100 degree summer temps idling at the
light. I am also using Redline water wetter and water with no antifreeze. That stuff really
does run cooler.

11. Exhaust System - 4 to 1 header (1 1/2" dia.) into completely stock for 1967
pipes,muffler, and resonator.

12. Additional comments:
The entire rotating and reciprocating mass of the engine was balanced before assembly. Idle is relatively smooth with a mild lope at cold idle of 850 rpms and idles much smoother when it warms up and idle comes up to 1000 - 1100 rpms where I've got it now. Prolonged idling will show a rich condition on the plugs, dark tan, but not excessive. Acceleration is smooth and strong and revs easily to 5500+ rpms in all gears up to fifth (I have a 5-speed). After installing a narrow band Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, I appear to be running about 12.5 to 13.1.
Some of these narrow band gauges are supposed to be notoriously inaccurate and are mainly useful to tell if you're rich or lean. Well, it does that. At about 5000 rpms, up a medium grade in 5th, it goes off-the-gauge lean, no leds at all. I'm guessing I need a richer mixture at this needle position. Ocassionally I can hear faint pinging on 92 octane, around 4000 or so rpm under certain loads. I could probably set the timing back some more. I've put 3500 miles on the engine so far and my enjoyment continues to grow with every drive. I'm really glad I did it. I used H20 forklift parts for everything else not listed in the short block assembly. How many head gaskets can you get for $22? How about three! I kept meticulous expense records and the bill for short block parts and machine work was $1828.97. But my labor was free! ? I can't think of anything else to add.

Hopefully this topic will generate enough interest from other stroker owners or new builders to add their experience as well. I've talked with Steve and we agree that a detailed collection of data could be at the very least some interesting reading.
Last edited by 23yrRebuild on Sat Aug 28, 2010 6:22 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Mike - '67 Stroker / 5-Speed

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SLOroadster
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Post by SLOroadster » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:31 pm

I think this is a great idea, however personally it will never do me any good. To everyone else who might be messing with a R16 however this is as good as gold. It is a way to tell what works and what doesn't, and different combos . What would be even better is if people were to dyno their cars and post the results of each individual setup. If enough people post, I'm sure someone will look everything over and come up with the "ultimate stroker" combo.

I'd love to see the same thing done for the U20 but since hot U20s are few and far between, I don't think its really worth it.

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!

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Post by SlowBoy » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:49 pm

What would be even better is if people were to dyno their cars and post the results of each individual setup.
That would be nice.

I'll be thrilled just to see what it is people have done to their strokers in one thread. It's sure gonna beat sifting through all the old posts and sorting them out. :)

I've got enough parts for a variety of setups, but this fence is soooo damn comfortable. Besides, I'm not done sifting the old stroker posts yet.
SlowBoy
(Jim)

66, 67 SPLs

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S Allen
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RE:Stroker Poll

Post by S Allen » Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:52 pm

1. Head early cast iron ported and polished, small block Chevy valves, hogged R16 intake to accept 2 liter carbies
2. Crank-H20 drop in
3. Pistons-H20 dished with U20 rods
4. Camshaft Isky DR66 228 duration with a .350 lift
5. Valve lash-not sure on this one-need to check my cam spec sheet
6. Carburetors 2 liter on a hogged out 1600 intake
7. Carb jet size .010
8. Carb needle designation RB from Joe Curto
9. Ignition distributor Gary Boone EI
10. Timing settings-20 degree using vacuum advance
11. Cooling system-custom Griffin aluminum radiator-180 thermo-runs a wee bit hot 195 degrees-sitting tends to run hotter-
12. 2 liter 5 speed tranny with the stock 1600 rear end.
13. 2-1/2" custom exhaust,mega-flow muffler, flex coupling, on a vendor available R16 header.

Runs a tad rich at idle but runs very well at WOT. I started with the stock N17 needles and had issues. I got some RH and RB needles from Joe Curto and settled on the RB's. Freeway averages around 29-30 MPG-City driving 21 MPG.

Seat of the pants dyno-very fast and very fun to drive on twisty roads alone or in a group.:shock:

More to come later!!!!!!!

Steve
Last edited by S Allen on Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
66 Stroker-Viper Blue Eventually
67.5 Stroker-Purple
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth

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Post by Daryl Smith » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:07 pm

Don't forget to add your exhaust system, it is a big part of the performance equation!

This is an 1800cc stroker!! :lol:

1. Head, valves, intake manifold modifications :
Aluminum head, shaved .020", ported. 1.70" intake valves, 1.35" exhaust valves. Custom EFI intake manifold, 1 3/8" id runners, ~10.5" long to 3" plenum.
** The intake ports actually flow quite well (190 cfm), but the exhaust ports are, I'm told, quite restrictive (140 cfm). If I were to do this again, I would leave the intake valve size stock and increase the exhaust valve as much as I could. Minimal work would be required on the intake port (minor cleanup), and a fair amount to make the exhaust port flow better.
(Sept. - Nov. 2008 Crushed valve seals required head removal from the engine. I used the opportunity to weld up the combustion chamber for better 'squish' area, added a 'Singh' groove, machined down the valve guides {Chevy valve seals used} to accomodate higher valve lift, and added roller rockers with 1.55:1 (?) ratio. The current intake is not real good for flow, I will be cutting it open to improve it somewhat, but have a second, much better version in progress. )
2. Pistons, rods, block, and crankshaft :
Custom flat top pistons, 88 mm. R16 rods. G15 crankshaft. R16 block.
The block was decked .010", and the pistons run .010" ABOVE the top of the block. This was to maximize the quench/squish area. It may be too much, I'll find out soon enough. :twisted: Compression ratio should be about 9.5:1

3. Camshaft grind and by what company;
Shadbolt Cams, Vancouver BC. (M-462 grind) Duration @ .050" - 224* intake, 220* exhaust. .265" camlift (.387" valve lift) and 108* lobe C/L
**I had a very good talk with a fellow at Colt Cams, unfortunately AFTER I got my cam from Shadbolt. Colt Cams (Langley, BC) would be my first stop should I do this again.
(June 2008 - This may change somewhat. I have been told that the 108* lobe C/L is probably too close for an EFI engine and may be contributing to my idle problems (900 rpm rough idle). Haven't decided yet but may go to 110* or 112* lobe C/L and possibly down to a 260* or 266* advertised duration.) (Sept. 2008 when the engine came apart to replace the valve seals I installed the new cam: 270* duration [.221" @ .050"], .282" lobe lift [~.437 valve lift], 112* LSA. From Geoff at Colt Cams)
4. Valve lash
.014" Intake and .015" Exhaust. Recomended range from Shadbolt cams was .012"-.015" for the intake valve, and .013"-.016" for the exhaust valve.
(Nov. 2008 New cam from Colt. Set per Geoff @ stock setting of .017" with roller rockers.)

5. Carburetors 1600 or 2000 (or other, FI, etc.):
50 mm single Throttle body and Megasquirt EFI

6. Carb jet size:
17 lb/hr injectors, high impedance.
(May 2008 - Lean at high rpm, Changed to 21 lb/hr.....)
7. Carb needle designation :
N/A

8. Ignition :
Ford EDIS wasted spark system (No dizzy),programmed thru Megasquirt. NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs regapped at .054"
(June 2008 - Chasing a miss in the ignition system, Trying Bosch Platinum +2 plugs #4303. 1 heat range higher than stock)
9. Timing settings:
Programmed through Megasquirt ECU. Cranks over for starting @ 12*, idles nicely @ 20*, max WOT at 38*. max timing at low load could go as high as 45 - 50*............
These #s are all subject to change as I haven't done any major tuning yet.
(June 2008 - All things considered, I backed off the timing to a max of 30* @WOT until I get things dialed in better. Idle a bit lower also @ 18*)

10. Cooling system:
Rebuilt R16 radiator (3 core) with U20 filler added. "Zirgo" 14" electric fan in puller position. Controlled through Megasquirt ECU. Set at and runs between 185 and 195 degrees. Using an unknown Ford thermostat housing.

11. Exhaust System:
Custom 4-2-1 header (1 5/8" - 1 7/8" - 2")* to a 2" x 6" long flex pipe to 2" pipe. feeds to Flowmaster resonator (coming out) then over the axle to Magnaflow straight thru muffler. It is very quiet. Much more intake noise than exhaust.
This is an interim setup. I will be building another 4-2-1 header @ 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" - 1 7/8". The Flowmaster is coming out to be replaced with a true "resonator" (basically a hollow can of a certain volume), The Flowmaster is just a fancy muffler, and is restrictive :evil: .
(June 2008 - The above header had a stubborn gasket leak, I've swapped in (for now) the Ceramic coated 4-1 header available from the vendors and Gutted the Flowmaster resonator - now just an empty can. Sound is still very quiet at idle, more induction noise than exhaust at speed.)(Nov. 2008 I have read where a 'bellmouth' on both the input and output of the resonator can aid exhaust flow, so will be cutting up the resonator to add those to both ends. Also that a megaphone or bellmouth at the end of the exhaust can also help flow.)

12. Other Comments:
I am also using an Innovate LC-1 wideband oxygen sensor so I can tell (and tune to) what my air/fuel ratios are/should be.

3:90 rear diff, 240SX 5 spd with .833:1 OD, 185/65/15 Falken tires.

This engine was built with four things in mind (1) I wanted a decent increase in power (2) It had to be very streetable, expected to idle @ about 700 -750 rpm (3) it had to pass emmissions testing (4) I wanted to get CLOSE to 40 mpg on a regular basis, not just on the odd highway trip.

So far I am very happy with the power. :D It pulls hard till you let off the gas. My max so far is 5700 rpm on a rough tune. 95 mph (uncalibrated speedo) was pretty easy to get to. 2, 3, and 4 are works in progress. So far I've only had it out for one day of tuning by feel/computer. I'll spend a few more days at it to get it as good as I can, then take it to a dyno for a good go over. :)

Nov. 4th, 2008 Still haven't been to a dyno. Sorting out several minor issues, and making changes as I go. Hope to have the engine back in the car soon and try some more tuning....
Last edited by Daryl Smith on Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:24 pm, edited 10 times in total.
Daryl
'66 2065cc Stroker "Frankie", EFI and GM D585 ignition
she aint pretty, she just looks that way...
http://www.311s.org/registry/1966/spl311-01605.html

PPCLINDL

stroker poll

Post by PPCLINDL » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:57 pm

Hi, Scott Lindley here. I wrote an article on my stroker so I hope it is still somewhere on the site but I'll hit the high spots here.

totally stock 70 head port matched to the stock exaust manifold and stock 1600 carbs. Stock 1600 exaust system.

American Cam Regrinding (Joe) reground cam.

stock R16 radiator gone through

Electric puller fan 13 inch, basically I turn it on from the cockpit when in town and off on the highway. Only runs "hot" in the summer here when it's 95 out.

2 liter crank and rods.

H20 pistons .030 over 5.6cc dish

head shaved .020, ARP headbolts from Dean torqued to 65 ft/lbs.

block shaved .055

Pistons "out of the hole" for best quench and about 9.2 compression
Engine runs fine and does not ping on regular gas........hell, who knew? I ran premium in it until I dynoed it and my dyno guy said the slower burning premium (used when dynoed) would actually hurt hp.

K&N air cleaner mod as detailed on this site.

Electronic ignition off a 1980 200sx that I installed myself. Not recurved.
matching coil off the same car.

whole thing balanced

everything to rebuild the engine came from Motor Power; gaskets, seals, freeze plugs, timing chain, bearings, pistons....the works.

2 liter clutch from Dean, 2 liter 5 speed

3.90 1600 rearend.

Dynoed 83 hp to the rear wheels, about 106 at the flywheel. Even though that figure was taken at 5000 ft., the Dynojet dyno automatically corrects hp to sea level. If you figure 3.5% loss per 1000 ft. increase in elevation I am only getting 68 hp to the rear wheels up here. It's a blast to drive and seat of the pants is much better than the dyno figures reveal.

Car is currently sitting awaiting a new front seal and the end of winter.

It is Octorber 6, 2010 and we are driving the roadster again!! I went to O'Reileys auto parts and told them I had a 70 Roadster and be darned if they didn't have a front crank seal. Installed it and no more leak. Just put 260 miles on it, all highway and got 29 mpg on 85.5 octane regular.
Last edited by PPCLINDL on Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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S Allen
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RE:Stroker Write-up

Post by S Allen » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:47 pm

Scott,

Your write-up is in the tech wiki section-direct link
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... eysStroker

Steve
66 Stroker-Viper Blue Eventually
67.5 Stroker-Purple
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth

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RE:Dennis Loutham's Stroker Via Mike

Post by S Allen » Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:50 pm

Mike, here is the Stroker info...hope it helps.
>
> I'll start from the top....
>
> 1. Head was ported, polished, cc'd, .50 taken off.
> 2. Rockers were stock, but matched, lightened, weight balanced.
> 3. Chevy valves (dont know what type)
> 4. Intake and exhaust matched to the intake and headers.
> 5. Cam is M-13 grind from American Cams
> 5. U-20 carbs with n17 needles.
> 6. Titaniam pushrods
> 7. U20 rods matched weight, U20 crank 10/10 balanced,rebalanced with
> rods and pistons attached. Pistons were flycut for bigger valves.
> 8. Block was surfaced .10
> 9. Arp head bolts.
> 10. Oil pump modified per Bob Sharp manual.
> 11. 16lb flywheel with U20 clutch plate.
> 12. U20 5 speed, rear end
> 13. Gary Boone dizzy, timing set to 18degrees
> 14. Blaster2 coil.
> 15. 8mm wires
> 16. r16 radiator 3 cored, 160 thermostat, usually runs at 180-190
> 17. Headers, 2"exhaust to Dynamax race muffler, 2 1/4 to exit
>
> A good friend did the head work, I did the computer work inside
> their Alcohol Funny Car Trailer and they worked on the head. I
> don't know which Chevy Valves were used, the made up the Titaniun
> pushrods to match the stock ones. I live at 4800ft, so couldnt go
> to much on the cam...no air here.
>
> Dennis
> 68 Stroker
> Minden, NV
66 Stroker-Viper Blue Eventually
67.5 Stroker-Purple
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth

frank in ga

Re: Stroker Poll

Post by frank in ga » Wed Sep 10, 2008 4:05 pm

I could use stroker information. Such as where to get a crank? Are they forged? Where to get rods? WHat cam andcarbs to use? Etc.

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Re: Stroker Poll

Post by dbrick » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:26 pm

frank in ga wrote:I could use stroker information. Such as where to get a crank? Are they forged? Where to get rods? WHat cam andcarbs to use? Etc.
Most of it's here http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... ion.Engine

Dave

Dave Brisco

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66 2000 The Bobster
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Re: Stroker Poll

Post by st3ph3nm » Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:20 pm

Okay, here's my U22. Note that in Australia, all the locally delivered U20's were the competition spec solex setup.

1. Head, valves, intake manifold modifications
Standard head, valves have been re-profiled, ports matched to manifolds, but not a lot taken out - U20's flow well to begin with.

2. Pistons (custom, H20 dished, U20 flat tops, or other)
Due to the crank being horribly undersized on the big ends, crankshaft has been off-set ground to give more stroke, allowing Mitsubishi EVO rods and 300ZX pistons (which required the block to be bored out to suit). Motor's now 2175cc.

3. Camshaft grind and by what company; any and all specs you can provide: intake duration, exhaust duration (if different), and lift. These
specs are often given with an advertised lift number such as .050", or some other number by the grinder)

Standard factory (Solex) cam, but rocker arms have higher radius seats (L series spec) that give about 6deg more duration @ .050"

4. Valve lash

Darn, can't remember! :)

5. Carburetors 1600 or 2000 (or other, FI, etc.)

44phh Solex's. These had suffered a fire a while back, so they've been bored out slightly, bigger throttle plates fitted, and 37mm chokes (up from standard 34mm)

6. Carb jet size .090 or .010
7. Carb needle designation (this NOT the needle and seat in the float chamber)
8. Ignition distributor (stock or electronic, Gary Boone EI, etc.)

Standard, with Pertronix electronic kit installed.

9. Timing settings

I'll edit this in.

10. Cooling system (stock R16, U20, or custom radiators) thermostat temperature, and average running temperature

Standard U20.

11. Any other additional comments or info that maybe useful, relevant, or just want to share

Just finishing running her in, but initial dyno run to tune the carbs showed 140hp at the wheels at ~5500rpm. And a good 120 ~4000rpm. Very torquey. About 6 kg or so has been taken out of rotating mass.

Cheers,
Steve

This information could be collected into a database and made available to other Roadster / Stroker owners for tuning and performance info.


So this sounds like a great idea to me. Any interest?

Steve[/quote]
SR311-01113 U22

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Re: Stroker Poll

Post by 70datsun » Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:15 am

Here's the info about my stroker motor:

1. R16 block bored .040 over with .040 dished pistons. Block was decked .045 to essentially zero decked.

2. U20 crank. I did not modify the crank except to relocate the keys on the nose. To make up for the longer crank nose, I cut the center collar from an old U20 harmonic balancer and then shortened it make up the one inch difference. It slid on to butt up against the crank pulley and then I installed the crank bolt. So far it's working very well. U20 oil pump.

3. U20 rods lightened, polished and balanced within 1 gram.

4. R16 aluminum head milled .040. Ported intake ports and ported and polished exhaust ports. Polished combustion chambers. ARP head bolts from Dean.
Valves are new H20 units (not as nice quality as the original Nissan valves). Valve springs are new H20 outer springs, U20 inner springs. Though they're only a little heavier than 1600 inner springs, I hope they'll help against valve float at high RPM.
Through some unsophisticated (plastic plate and syringe) ccing and measurements, I figured the CR at about 9.5:1.

5. Cam is an M13 from American Cam Regrinding (purchased from Dean). 276 duration, 440 lift. Valve lash set at .017 intake, .019
exhaust.

6. Carbs are Weber MCHH 45s, which are single throat sidedrafts. I purchased a conversion kit that was designed for Triumph TR6 and they bolted up to the factory intake manifold. The manifold was ported fairly extensively to match the larger diameter of the new carbs and the porting on the head. The carbs still need more tuning, (you tune them with the same jets as DCOEs) but they run good and sound great.

7. 2000 clutch and pressure plate to stock four speed.

8. Tubular header (not a very good one, I would say), currently stock exhaust. I will have a 2 inch exhaust installed soon.

9. Stock dizzy, recurved with kit from Rallye, plus a Pertronix. Timing set to 16 BTDC.

10. Stock cooling, though the hood has two rows of 9 louvers, which probably helps under hood temp. Temp has been around 185-190 driving, 190-200 sitting in traffic.

The motor feels great. Very strong throughout the rev range, though with great restraint, I haven't taken it above 4500 yet. I intend to have it dynoed once it's broken in some more. For some kind of perspective, it's nearly as fast as my brothers tr6, which has a built motor with triple webers (we had this car dynoed at 116 rwhp and 146 fp torque). Also, with the previous motor and 205/60 AVS Intemediates, it had grip at all times. Now, the tires will spin from a stop and power oversteer in a second gear turn is fairly easy. Needless to say, it's been causing some mischief. :twisted:
Jeremy Mayne
1970 SPL stroker
1985 Volvo 245 Turbo
2001 VW Jetta Wagon 5spd VR6

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Re: Stroker Poll

Post by datsun_sp310 » Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:08 pm

Here is a cool link on the Australian OzDat forums, its an engine builder and lets you mix and match all the nissan engine parts and tells you what works and what doesn't.
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
This is where i got my next engine build idea from which will a L16 stroked to a 2lt and a whole lot more.

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Re: Stroker Poll

Post by 23yrRebuild » Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:28 pm

That looks like it has some potential as a useful database. It needs to get our engines in there, R16 & U20's.
Mike - '67 Stroker / 5-Speed