Next question, is there a way to really tighten the studs that hold the front turn signals to the fender? Or is there a better way to attach them?
One one on the driver's side rattles pretty good.
There's a rubber or hard plastic piece that the glove box door arm slides in.
glove box.jpg
How do you remove it? If rubber, mine has hardened so it doesn't compress nor can I get anything under the edge.
Anyone found a replacement?
Thanks.
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Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off in progress. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a pickup, and a motorcycle
ppeters914 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:07 pm
There's a rubber or hard plastic piece that the glove box door arm slides in.
glove box.jpg
How do you remove it? If rubber, mine has hardened so it doesn't compress nor can I get anything under the edge.
Anyone found a replacement?
Thanks.
Never mind. Five seconds after posting, the answer came: Heat gun! Gently warmed, and I was able to pry it out.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off in progress. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a pickup, and a motorcycle
Hoping for a quick but accurate weight of a full rear quarter panel please. It is well over 135 degrees in my walk up attic and I really do not want to drag a scale up there, uncrate one and then weigh it.
HELP
gracias
My junk pile:
71 Jeep Gladiator. Restored w/#s matching engine. My WeeBeasty
70 1600 legit 2nd owner. Stroked and bored
Several salvaged w access to a barn full of parts, part cars & whole cars
......What's in the barn is for sale. What do you need?
My ignition switch on my 67.5 had an issue so I purchased a 280zx ignition switch that I’ll install once I get it. But one of the connector wires got fried so I’m looking to replace it too. Anyone know what I should do? Do I need to buy a new harness that works for the 280zx?
Here are pics of my original switch...
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Nick
1967.5 Roadster 1600
VIN: SPL311-13038
Orange County, CA
If I'm not mistaken that is the starter motor solenoid wire.
I would just cut the old damaged connector off and re-crimp a new one.
The remainder of the wire looks OK from here.
One thing you can do to prevent a repeat of that wire overheating is to fit a START relay.
The ignition switch connects voltage to that wire when the switch is in the START position.
Add a relay to the feed so that the ignition switch operates the relay [low current circuit] and the relay energises the starter solenoid [high current circuit].
That will save the ignition switch contacts from abuse and put all the hard work on the relay contacts
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817 http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/117
McQueen!
He's on the road again!
Nissanman wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:15 pm
If I'm not mistaken that is the starter motor solenoid wire.
I would just cut the old damaged connector off and re-crimp a new one.
The remainder of the wire looks OK from here.
One thing you can do to prevent a repeat of that wire overheating is to fit a START relay.
The ignition switch connects voltage to that wire when the switch is in the START position.
Add a relay to the feed so that the ignition switch operates the relay [low current circuit] and the relay energises the starter solenoid [high current circuit].
That will save the ignition switch contacts from abuse and put all the hard work on the relay contacts
Ok great thanks. I’ll look into the START relay too. I’m not sure what type of wiring was done before me so I’ll have to check it all.
Nick
1967.5 Roadster 1600
VIN: SPL311-13038
Orange County, CA
The terminal on the starter wire is a GM Delphi Packard 56 series female blade. I have some but won't be home for another week from Japan. I buy the ones for 14-12 gauge wire.
Curtis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 02, 2018 12:56 am
The terminal on the starter wire is a GM Delphi Packard 56 series female blade. I have some but won't be home for another week from Japan. I buy the ones for 14-12 gauge wire.
Great thanks! I found a “kit” online that comes with a lot of pieces and sizes. I think I’ll just go with that just in case I need to fix more in the future. Thanks for the help.
Nick
1967.5 Roadster 1600
VIN: SPL311-13038
Orange County, CA
Curtis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 02, 2018 12:56 am
The terminal on the starter wire is a GM Delphi Packard 56 series female blade. I have some but won't be home for another week from Japan. I buy the ones for 14-12 gauge wire.
Great thanks! I found a “kit” online that comes with a lot of pieces and sizes. I think I’ll just go with that just in case I need to fix more in the future. Thanks for the help.
They should be crimped with an open barrel crimper. You have a choice of buying on one from Vintage Connections/Spark Moto or somewhere else. You can use a crimper with mulriple sizes on each part. I would put just a dab of solder on in that case.
Quick question pls , now the turnbucles , which do I measure them at . The 78mm for the back turnbucle , Or , drop the throttle levers all the way down into allotted space full close of throttle .. 78mm will rise the throttle when connected not being all the way dropped anymore .. dropped throttle levers then connect , or do 78mm then connect ?