Yep, as Phil the geometry expert said, try a few alignment settings and even swap front wheels with a friend to try different tire sizes before making major equipment changes. Very small adjustments can change the feel dramatically.
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door
Los Alamitos, CA
Not sure what you mean by "feel".
If you keep the stock steering box and linkage, wheel size/width is the only other variable other than tire pressure.
A smaller steering wheel may help, larger wheels with lower prifile tires.
What, specifically, are you looking for?
.68 SRL311 aka "Skortch". On the road again.
'69 SPL311 aka "Scooter" terrorizing the streets
1990 Nissan 300ZX
2008 VW GTI
2017 VW Passat
Apparently Geoff is still a bit fuzzy on what he's asking.
Seriously, if it's a late steering box 69.5 or 70, better oil and synthetic grease everything, if it's an early box, really can't get much better than it left the factory unless you update to a late box. Rack and pinion is cool, except for that pesky engine being in the way.
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
Use a (edit: Screw in) Pinto lower ball joint with a bracket to adapt them to your A arm and move the ball joint forward (Caster) and outward (Camber). IIRC its ~ 0.5" per degree. edit: Set the camber according to the tire manufacture suggestion, Caster until your arm hurt.....LOL
67.5 SRL311-00148 Blue (FJ cruiser VOODOO Blue)
67.5 SPL311 FJ20E teal SDS EFI
69 SRL311 SOLD
19 Raptor SCAB
I was never happy with the way my car felt stability wise. I had replaced A arm bushings, installed stiffer springs, replaced ball joints, big fat sticky tires, replaces anti sway bar and used the urethane bushings. Than I got a coupon in the mail, (ME, Mr. cheapo who can fix anything ) for an alignment at my local Firestone. They had a hard time getting it on to their alignment rack, kept stalling it. Wouldn't let me drive it up there, insurance issues ya know. I pulled the choke to keep the revs up and success. The guy took (2) two hours to do it. I asked, "Does he normally take this long"? No was the answer. He said he had a hard time getting his big ole hands in there. A local legend known for excellent work.
After the alignment with the aggressive specs, It felt like a different car. Is your car aligned correctly?
Getting a set of 225/45/15s under the rear fenders might take a little work. I run 225/50/14s on my car and those took a lot of creativity to make fit. I wouldn't worry about replacing the ball joints just because they are ball joints. They work fine (assuming they are in good working order.) I think the rubbery/numb feeling is more due to alignment settings. A well setup roadster is the most tactile car I have ever driven. (I've driven a fair amount of Porsches, Lotus, BMWs ect.) I can't think of a more directly connected steering feel on any car. That said, it really takes a good set of race tires to bring it out. Street tires with a stiff sidewall will do it as well.
What is your suspension setup? If you are running stock springs, swaybar, and KYB dampers, that could be an issue right there.
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!