fuel gauge voltage regulator

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Curtis
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Curtis » Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:57 am

dbrick wrote:Jon, any knowledge on the VW unit? looks close, from reading, seems to run in the same range. Datsun was notorious for copying good engineering, and the VW fuel sender runs in the same ohm range.
It is a 6 volt output based on a search for it. I had thought about trying this before. The Ford one is also 6 volts I think. Then there is the Mopar one as well.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by dbrick » Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:25 pm

Link to the functional info. Bonus...A Super Beetle uses a sender alot like a late Roadster, Ohms look right too.
http://www.netlink.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm



I edited original post, made much more sense with the link in there :D
dbrick wrote:I found this a few years ago, appears to be the same part, but no specs. Good chance it would work.

If one of you guys wants to make a few of those regulators, they would probably be bought by people here.

http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw- ... -113957099

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by caraddict » Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:10 am

That is an excellent write up Dave and it does a great job of explaining how the Roadster gauges work. I especially like the way they call it a "vibrator" as it makes the function a little easier to grasp. I'd love to get one of these in my hands so we can do a side by side comparison but from what I see here it looks to be the perfect replacement.

Has anybody priced these out?

Jon

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Curtis » Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:58 am

caraddict wrote:That is an excellent write up Dave and it does a great job of explaining how the Roadster gauges work. I especially like the way they call it a "vibrator" as it makes the function a little easier to grasp. I'd love to get one of these in my hands so we can do a side by side comparison but from what I see here it looks to be the perfect replacement.

Has anybody priced these out?

Jon

You can find them all over the web for sale. Question is will the gauge adjust enough to use this one?

At some point soon even though I don't need it I will buy one of the Nissan ones. I have a spare fuel sender I can hook up and test it with.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by prosantos » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:48 pm

I have seen a lot of new electronic voltage regulators that will step down to 6v, is there a need for the pulsating or vibrating for the gauge to read properly????

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by spyder » Mon Sep 23, 2013 12:00 am

prosantos wrote:I have seen a lot of new electronic voltage regulators that will step down to 6v, is there a need for the pulsating or vibrating for the gauge to read properly????
No need for a pulsating one for proper operation. I went with a home made 8 volt electronic regulator. The only difference I noticed is the gauges are initially slower to come up to actual value. Rock solid in fifteen seconds.

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by prosantos » Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:55 pm

Having the following problem, fuel gauge reads full, when voltage regulator is grounded it goes down to empty.
What is causing this

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by notoptoy » Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:00 pm

^Sounds like you have it wired in reverse.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by roadsterred » Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:26 pm

I installed a instrument voltage regulator from a 1966 Ford Mustang in my roadster and my fuel gauge seems to be working properly. However, my car, a '69, is currently in storage so I don't keep a full tank of gas. I do run the engine about once a month.

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Curtis » Fri May 23, 2014 1:26 pm

Curtis wrote:
prosantos wrote:have you or any one try this??
Just found it so no I haven't tried it yet.
Since I am ordering some other parts I have ordered one of the Nissan ones. Will post after I get it and test it.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Roman » Fri May 23, 2014 3:12 pm

The originals are easy to fix. a bit of solder on the riveted connections.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by mraitch » Fri May 23, 2014 3:30 pm

@roadsterred
" I do run the engine about once a month."
Don't forget to pump the brakes, and perhaps also engage the clutch. Calipers, especially, can seize if not operated over a period of time.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by mikeyfalcone » Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:32 pm

Roman,

I am dealing with the struggles of a voltage regulator that sucks the big one. When you say solder on the riveted connections, are you referring to the outer portion where the wires are also connecting? the riveted section creates an L-shape? where the "vertical" part of the "L" attaches the wire, and the "horizontal" has the rivet?

thanks
Mike

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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Roman » Mon Jun 16, 2014 6:06 pm

mikeyfalcone wrote:Roman,

I am dealing with the struggles of a voltage regulator that sucks the big one. When you say solder on the riveted connections, are you referring to the outer portion where the wires are also connecting? the riveted section creates an L-shape? where the "vertical" part of the "L" attaches the wire, and the "horizontal" has the rivet?

thanks
Been a long time since I did it. Don't remember if there is one or two rivets. But the rivet area often "moves". It can be wiggled. Over the years corrosion can build up on the electrical connection and it loses conductivity and gains resistance.
With a really small brass wire brush I cleaned in there along with some contact cleaner. Then wicked some solder in and went as far as to solder a jumper lead as well.

Solved the problem and the VR never gave me a lick of problem after that.
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Re: fuel gauge voltage regulator

Post by Roman » Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:07 am

Ok, due to some gentle prodding from a forum member in need, I took out my Instrument VR to show how it was repaired. It's old, it's dirty but it works. I figured this might be useful to some who's unit is intermittent or not working.

Image

The section going to the terminal marked IGN is hardwired ( I ran a jumper wire) to the top right rivet. The bottom right rivet is just soldered. I only had to take the unit apart to see what went to where. but to do the repair you actually don't even need to open up the canister.

It's a simple but effective repair if you cannot find a new unit.
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