Console Lid Repair Tip

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itsa68
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Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by itsa68 »

If you are installing a new cap to your console cover lid, try to salvage the vinyl skins on the sides of the console.

The salvaged side material can be used to repair the underside of the lid.
Unfortunately, my salvaged console sides weren't in the best of shape, but would do as I don't drive around with the lid open.

Use low heat and keep the heat gun/hair dryer moving to form the vinyl into the lid channels with the aid of a dull edged putty knife.

Note: When installing the lid and masking off edges, do not use too strong of a masking tape on the original vinyl as it may pull off the surface grain. Perform a tape test on a scrap piece of original vinyl to confirm the tape adhesion will not create damage.

lid damage.jpg
Lid.jpg
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Thats not a R16 death rattle....its a dried leaf hitting my heater blower fan.
1968 SPL311 non-smog

C.Costine
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by C.Costine »

I am in the process of installing the new top on my '67. I needed to put new vinyl on the inside of the front bow as well as recover my console. I ordered doeskin from JoAnn fabrics. It was very reasonable and their shipping was a lot less than some others. I have done the front bow and that doeskin was an absolute pleasure to work with, because it stretches very well. I will have plenty to do the console and lid.


This pic shows how I masked for spraying the contact cement. The left is the surface of one half of the bow, the right is the underside of the vinyl. I do any thing like this in sections which is way easier than trying to get the whole thing lined up and stuck without wrinkles. I did this piece in six sections: right middle, left middle, left end, right end, bottom front, and top front.

1MWP9wWkQkOS61u13B1eNw.jpg
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located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
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Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

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Linda
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by Linda »

What is the preferred glue, and brand, if specific, for attaching the pieces?
Linda
68 1600 Los Angeles, CA
New owners must read: the ultimate road trip, by Scott- roadsterroadtrip.com-http://www.roadsterroadtrip.com/index.php/readfromstart

C.Costine
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by C.Costine »

Linda, The recommended cement from here, five years ago, was "Barge" contact cement. Here is what I have been using:

FB4tUFRCSfKT6tQnDFQLfQ.jpg

The 3M aerosol goes on the larger areas, and then where I have to fold over an edge in sections I use the brush-on Weldwood. I used them for all of the vinyl that I glued on the interior in between where the kit panel pieces cover.
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located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

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Linda
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by Linda »

Great. I like the specifics on these products for projects. For instance it seems the 3M products always get good reviews.
So using a good product (paint too) can make all the difference.
Seems like you and Ray have got the process down, and thanks for the tips!
Still debating on whether to do the center console myself. I had done the lid previously. It is the pieces near the ash tray that look tricky. I have to use some kind of foam repair. Would like to see a little how-to on that.
Linda
68 1600 Los Angeles, CA
New owners must read: the ultimate road trip, by Scott- roadsterroadtrip.com-http://www.roadsterroadtrip.com/index.php/readfromstart

todd lorber
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by todd lorber »

Would that vinyl product work well for the metal trim piece that screws that goes around the rear of the cockpit? (Sorry, not sure what it is called).

Also, I've had issues with that 3M spray in high heat. Since it can get over 100* here, I had it come loose in certain spots. That prompted me to buy a gallon of some contact adhesive-I believe it is called Weldwood- that I had to order from out of state (out of California). I'm hoping the stuff is still good since I will need to use it again. The only hassle was that I needed to use a brush-I didn't want to clog up my spray gun.

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itsa68
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by itsa68 »

Area near the ash can be tricky.
You can cut plywood rectangular filler plugs, (with sharp corners rounded off), that fit into the space in the ash tray area when the cover is on the console body. The plug/s will keep the new cover against the console body when your rtv sealant/adhesive is curing.

If you fill the ash tray area high enough, you will able to use large rubber bands to hold in the area plugs, and hold the new cover to the the outer body of the console.
Rubber bands can be made by cutting pieces from a car tire tube. ( Hardest part is getting the tube out of the neighbors wheel :wink: )

Dry fit everything a couple times to make sure all plugs are firmly held in place and verify bands are not overly tight and create localized distortion.
To spread the banding clamping force over the outside surface of the console, some bendable plywood, or other material, can be also be placed between the banding and cover. You can place wood shims anywhere under the rubber bands if you feel you might some additional clamping in the area.
You might want to number or mark the plugs..etc in the desired placement order to facilitate final assembly after application of the adhesive on console body and cover.

(The shift area can also be plugged and rubber banded if required.)

Mask off any new cover surfaces where you do want to have adhesive on.

Console might look like a rubber banded mummy, but everything will be held firmly in place.
20170128_141503.jpg


I'm sure with all the covers that have been installed, there many other ways to clamp and hold things together.
The method above is just one of them.

Unfortunately I lost most of my installation pictures so I'm going from memory. :smt017

Cheers
Ray B.
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Thats not a R16 death rattle....its a dried leaf hitting my heater blower fan.
1968 SPL311 non-smog

C.Costine
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Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by C.Costine »

Linda wrote:
Fri May 29, 2020 12:27 pm
Great. I like the specifics on these products for projects. For instance it seems the 3M products always get good reviews.
So using a good product (paint too) can make all the difference.
Seems like you and Ray have got the process down, and thanks for the tips!
Still debating on whether to do the center console myself. I had done the lid previously. It is the pieces near the ash tray that look tricky. I have to use some kind of foam repair. Would like to see a little how-to on that.
Linda
Keep in mind that my roadster is a low windshield with a much less complicated console. I do have an original '68 console. I haven't been able to find a crack in it.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

C.Costine
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Posts: 1335
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:08 pm

Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by C.Costine »

Ray, what did you use for adhesive? You said rtv sealant /adhesive so I am thinking RTV silicone?
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

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itsa68
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Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Console Lid Repair Tip

Post by itsa68 »

Used GOOP brand Automotive Black Adhesive.
Looks same as a RTV Silicone,but seems to have more bonding strength when I tested both. Most of the RTV's around here seem to be primarily labelled as sealant but can be used as an adhesive.

My dash cap was installed using RTV sealant about 25+ years ago. It seems to have held on not too bad, but who knows what the formula was back then.

All inside cover surfaces should be abraded.

Cheers
Ray B.
Thats not a R16 death rattle....its a dried leaf hitting my heater blower fan.
1968 SPL311 non-smog