After market gauges-There are many available but I used the Autometer black face in my 67.5. I plan to use the white face in my '66. Not stock but the cost is reasonable and the performance more reliable than the stock gauges in my opinion. It costs a lot of dinero to have the stock gauges refurbished. Plus parts are getting harder to get as the cars get older. Some have used VDO gauges successfully as well.

• Mechanical speedometer 3-3/4" 120 MPH-roadster speedo cable hooks right up.
• Electric tachometer 3-3/4" 8,000 RPM-hooks up to - side of coil-I had a cap machined to block off the fitting where the tach cable hooked up to the distributor body.
• Water temp-mechanical 2-5/8"-hooked into pass side of water pump(to keep away from header heat)I had my water pump fitted with a threaded insert to accept the adapter.
• Oil pressure 2-5/8"-connected directly to block
• Amp gauge 2-5/8"-hooked up to stock wiring-single wire alt screwed that up. More on that later.
• Fuel gauge 2-5/8"-used Ford unit as it has correct ohms and works well-not 100% below a 1/2 tank. I believe I used the fuel gauge with a Fuel Level (73 ohm empty/ 8-12 ohm full) This application is for most Fords before 1989 & Chrysler vehicles. If you want to be 100% positive check the roadster sender by measuring resistance (ohms) using an ohmmeter with tank empty and full. I used the Sport-Comp gauges. The fuel gauge PN for a 2-1/16" is 3315 and 3515 for a 2-5/8".

You could use the 5" speedometer and tachometer. It really is personal choice. There are also some smaller water, temp, oil, amp/volt and fuel gauges. 2-1/16" I believe. There are a variety of styles to choose from. I stuck with the Sport-Comp series of gauges. For more information on Autometer gauges go to Summit Racing's Web Site. Click here to check them out!

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