Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Has anyone documented a 280z live rear axle conversion to a roadster?

dbrick wrote:The mounting point is at the center of the wheel arch about 1 inch above the shelf. There is a small raised portion. Bolt goes in horizontally. I think it's 7/16-20 threaded.

Couldn't you be more specific?

I found the mounting locations, thanks! I've seen a few discussions about belts on here, but I haven't seen any recommendations for where to get the seat belts. I see that the originals are available from a roadster vendor for about $220 each - anyone have any suggestions for cheaper, DOT approved alternatives? I can certainly find the bolt of the right size (thanks to dbrick) if I can get the right seat belt.

JC Whipme and Advance Auto Parts have them.

duff me wrote:I've seen a few discussions about belts on here, but I haven't seen any recommendations for where to get the seat belts. I see that the originals are available from a roadster vendor for about $220 each - anyone have any suggestions for cheaper, DOT approved alternatives?

Although this was for a 510, check the folks mentioned in this thread:

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=7949

GeoffM wrote:Has anyone documented a 280z live rear axle conversion to a roadster?

I assume that you mean independent rear from a Z to a Roadster. The Roadster is a live axle. I have not heard of one, but Carl Jaeger did an independent swap into a Roadster - it required a new rear frame section.

Man, some of those ratsun guys are quite rude!

If you want a lower price, check eBay. There is a 3 point retractable set there for $30 plus shipping. Here is the photo:



Click to buy!

Here are some other options. I'm going with the classic lift latch belt. Pretty close to stock.

http://www.Julianos.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Go to their online store and click on "Lap Blets".

Kyle

I used surplus 747 aircraft belts. Not DOT, but FAA approved, so I'm not legal
They look just like the ones Kyle posted, but shorter.
That's a great website, BTW.

"I used surplus 747 aircraft belts."

Surplus...meaning you were able to unbolt them during the flight.

nats226ny wrote:"I used surplus 747 aircraft belts."

Surplus...meaning you were able to unbolt them during the flight.

No, that would be unsafe. I waited until we landed. Figured after I used them, they weren't needed anymore. Tough getting a socket set on a plane
They were from a rebuilder who converts passenger planes to cargo use. In reality, they do just unclip, spring loaded latch and an eybolt for mounting. They are kind of short, not a problem for me, but larger people may find they won't go long enough.

Now for the price of the DOT approved belts posted above, I would have gotten them instead of the 747 belts.

A buddy of mine gripped some from a military transport that he was on iirc. I picked some up at the Sun and Fun fly in several years ago, but have no idea where they have gotten off to...

At the risk of turning this into the seat belt thread (if a moderator wants to move this to a separate thread go ahead ), here is something I'm considering.
http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/mm5/mercha ... Seat-Belts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyone have the retractable type seat belts with the retractor mounted behind/beside the seat? Trying to figure out if it will fit.

You would need a solid anchor point, like a properly installed roll bar to use that type of belt. A sturdy mounting on the roll bar tube itself is also required, like Jeep used for years. The pivot needs to be at or above shoulder level, otherwise the forward force of an impact becomes downward force on your shoulder, which is bad, although the factory belt had a low mount, and would do about the same.

Using a pivot mounted in the sheetmetal would be worse. If the pivot tore out, you now have a slack belt, shoulder and lap, so it's less effective than a simple 2 point lap belt that is tight. The factory belts were independent, so a loose shoulder belt didn't affect the lap.

If you are going through all the work, make it better than factory, or just use OEM. There are also possible liability issues if a passenger gets hurt because someone did a halfassed job putting in seatbelts.

Anyone replace the gas filler neck hose with an aftermarket part? Maybe a silicone hose or heater hose? What size did you use?

How about the fuel filler trunk floor grommet? Anyone have a less expensive alternative for that?

I bought the piece of hose from one of the vendors, but IIRC my local NAPA mentioned he had it in stock.

I need to stop by there tomorrow so I'll ask.

Word of caution though; heater hose is simply not a good replacement for any hose dealing with gasoline. It WILL deteriorate and usually starts spewing fumes/liquid at a very inopportune time... sometimes disastrously. Kind of like putting your fingers in and out of the fan blade path.... if you do it quickly enough.. i.e. just to get you home... you'll be fine, but DO replace it PDFQ.

A friend of mine is a retired Fireman Inspector from L.A. and you should see him go supersonic nuclear ballistic on a short fuse with the Z guys and those funky hoses in the back. There are two coming from the tank to the evaporation tank as well as a a couple of vent hoses to the evap tank from the filler neck. The 5/8" FUEL line requires a 180° bend which in fuel hose is a very tight bend without collapsling, whereas heater hose can make the bend. You get the picture.

I'll post the results (P/N; SKU, etc.) when I get them back.

E