Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

C.Costine wrote:

ZeroNilNada wrote:Hi all. Is there a particular orientation that the connecting rods are placed on the crankshaft? That is, looking at the rod numbers or oil holes, are they on the left or right side of the engine?

Yes, when removed they are marked with witness marks to show both position and orientation. Most engines come with them already there, you just have to look fairly closely, If they are not there you put them on yourself. Some pistons have a little arrow or some such indicator at the top edge.

Unfortunately I did not take this engine apart, it was a basket case that I'm having put back together. I have a 1600 that is still fairly intact and the oil holes on the rods are all on the right side of the engine and the rod numbers on the left. I'm just wondering if the 2l is the same. I have all of the unique rod numbers and in their proper cylinders, I just wasn't sure what orientation the rods go on the crank.

So the fuel sending unit in my 1600 is toast. 21 years of corrosion.
Does anyone know if you can use the fuel sending unit from a Datsun 520/620?
They look very similar and are only $20 as opposed to $160.

Assuming the mounting flange is compatible with your tank, the resistance values have to be suitable to drive the gauge in some semblance of accuracy.
The arm can be shortened [bent] but lengthening will require some cutting and pasting, if required.
I managed to rewire my SP310 sender to what was required for a late model fuel gauge but you shouldn't need to do that for a 1600.
Have a look here for the gory details: -
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ce#p186023

Thanks Nissanman. I'm going to try the 520 sender. It's only $20 and looks very similar.

Let us know how that works out with the 520 sender.

S

I'm about to replace the U-Joint in my steering system. It's a stock 1968 SRL, the engine is out for an overhaul, so I figured now is the time. Do I have to dismantle the entire steering column (like inside the cockpit, ignition, etc.), or can I somehow disconnect the steering rod from the U-Joint without much extra tear down?

Here is the parts breakdown: -


You will have to push the inner steering shaft lower #101 into the steering shaft upper #84 slightly to gain enough real estate to disengage the uni joint assembly.

jheck wrote:Thanks Nissanman. I'm going to try the 520 sender. It's only $20 and looks very similar.

Where did you find the 520 sender for $20?

It's on eBay. Plus shipping of course.

nevermind

I guess two part numbers may be for LHD & RHD cables -- not sure what the 3rd might be - 310 ??

RHD P/N #
12 ASSY-WIRE ACCELERATOR
18100-25501 SP, SR - 1

13 ASSY-WIRE ACCELERATOR
18100-25501 SP - 1

14 ASSY-WIRE ACCELERATOR
18100-25501 SR - 1


LHD P/N #
20 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR
18100-26001 SPL (SU) - 1

21 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR
18100-26001 SPL (SU) - 1

22 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR (L-570)
18100-26001 SPL, SPLU (SU) - 1

23 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR
18100-26001 SPL (SOLEX) - 1

24 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR (L-685)
18100-26001 SPL (SOLEX) - 1

25 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR
18100-26001 SRL (SU) - 1

26 ASSY-WIRE, ACCELERATOR (L-685)
18100-26001 SRL, SRLU (SU & SOLEX) - 1

nevermind.

Solex air filter question.

The back plate is, a. chromed steel or b. stainless steel?

The front cover is aluminum?

Chromed steel back, aluminum lid