The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[tjp]

Bleeding my brakes after new brake master install. I bled the master in the car. Then rear brakes bled just fine. Now I cannot get fluid to flow to the front--am still on the front left. It just looks to me like there is air just bubbling in the reservoir when I pump the pedal with the front left speed bleeder open. If I open the bleeder for the reservoir the fluid drains out by gravity so assume no blockage.

If I did't get all the air of out the master would that cause what I am seeing?

Thanks

[msampsel]

You probably know all this ...

If dual master, which I do not have, one of the circuits is rear and the other front.
It could be the master in that if dual the front and rear are separate.

If so does the fluid flow from master to the (five way going on other posts not expert knowledge on the existence of a 5 way) union?
Do either of the front brakes bleed?

got some of my info here

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ne#p211409

[svwilbur]

Bleeding my brakes after new brake master install. I bled the master in the car. Then rear brakes bled just fine. Now I cannot get fluid to flow to the front--am still on the front left. It just looks to me like there is air just bubbling in the reservoir when I pump the pedal with the front left speed bleeder open. If I open the bleeder for the reservoir the fluid drains out by gravity so assume no blockage.

If I did't get all the air of out the master would that cause what I am seeing?

Thanks

on my 1970 2000 i believe it has two bleed valves on the master. did you bleed them both?
Mine has the little light that tells you when one of the masters has failed or that part of the system is failing, low or no pressure, in one side of the master cylinder. Either the front or the back.

I bleed the rears then the master and then the fronts but I did not have any issues. I did not use speed bleeders just the two person open, down, close, down synchronization method.

Maybe your speed bleeders got some gunk in it and is not closing?

Since this is a new master install is it possible that the front side is not sealing well in the master?
Did you try bleeding that side of the master with pressure instead of gravity to see if it bubbles too?

[tjp]

did you bleed them both?

yes. But what are the chances that, if I didn't get all the air out of the reservoir for the rears, that it would cause the reservoir for the front to not pump?

Maybe your speed bleeders got some gunk in it and is not closing?

I removed the speed bleeder. It didn't change anything.

Since this is a new master install is it possible that the front side is not sealing well in the master?

If this is the case what are my options? Is this master shot out of the box?

Did you try bleeding that side of the master with pressure instead of gravity to see if it bubbles too?

I tried gravity and got fluid out of the bleeder for the rear reservoir. I also loosened the hard line fitting under the rear reservoir and got gravity drip. There is no blockage in the system: I was able to blast air through the system all the way to the reservoir.

I'm stumped.

[svwilbur]

"I tried gravity and got fluid out of the bleeder for the rear reservoir. I also loosened the hard line fitting under the rear reservoir and got gravity drip. There is no blockage in the system: I was able to blast air through the system all the way to the reservoir. "

I am assuming the rear reservoir (usually the larger one) in your case goes to the front brakes so you should be able to push the pedal and get fluid to go out to the caliper when you loosen the bleed valve enough. just dont let the reservoir get empty. Did you try the right side? does it have the same issue?

I would think that since the two systems are separate that one (rear and front) should not interfere with the other. But most people recommend rears first.

by bikermike » Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:39 pm

My suggestion on bleed sequence is to start with the longest brake line 1st. For a stock brake line routing on a LHD car that sequence would be:
1. rear driver
2. rear passenger
3. front driver
4. front passenger

[svwilbur]

Bleeding my brakes after new brake master install. I bled the master in the car. Then rear brakes bled just fine. Now I cannot get fluid to flow to the front--am still on the front left. It just looks to me like there is air just bubbling in the reservoir when I pump the pedal with the front left speed bleeder open. If I open the bleeder for the reservoir the fluid drains out by gravity so assume no blockage.

If I did't get all the air of out the master would that cause what I am seeing?

Thanks

Just reading this over again.
This part just sounds really strange:
"It just looks to me like there is air just bubbling in the reservoir when I pump the pedal with the front left speed bleeder open. "

Why would air ever bubble in the reservoir???
It should just push fluid down the brake line and bubbles come out of the caliper bleeder.
Maybe something is wrong with the pistons or the seals when it was assembled?
or it is blocked and just pushing stuff backwards past the seals and piston.
But you say it can drip out and bleed.

I'm stumped. Just does not sound right at all. Blowing air back up the system may not have helped. but i assume you had this problem prior to that.

If you can get an assistant I would try the old way and re-bleed the master and try the fronts again using the old way of bleeding, down pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, up pedal, repeat. There should be no bubbles in the reservoir. after running a couple reservoirs of fluid out it should be bubble free at the caliper.

[tjp]

"I tried gravity and got fluid out of the bleeder for the rear reservoir. I also loosened the hard line fitting under the rear reservoir and got gravity drip. There is no blockage in the system: I was able to blast air through the system all the way to the reservoir. "

I am assuming the rear reservoir (usually the larger one) in your case goes to the front brakes so you should be able to push the pedal and get fluid to go out to the caliper when you loosen the bleed valve enough. just dont let the reservoir get empty. Did you try the right side? does it have the same issue?

I would think that since the two systems are separate that one (rear and front) should not interfere with the other. But most people recommend rears first.

by bikermike » Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:39 pm

My suggestion on bleed sequence is to start with the longest brake line 1st. For a stock brake line routing on a LHD car that sequence would be:
1. rear driver
2. rear passenger
3. front driver
4. front passenger

Please scan up and read my initial post on this. I did bleed the back and had no problems. maybe I need to move this to it's own thread.....

[svwilbur]

"Please scan up and read my initial post on this. I did bleed the back and had no problems. maybe I need to move this to it's own thread....."
Yup I did. see the post just before you last one?


Maybe someone else has some ideas.....

Looks like TJP posted a separate post for this issue here for follow-up:

Is this a bad brake master?
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26377

[toplessdottie]

DASH LIGHTS

**** Found my answer****
***No Need to reply***

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the lights have to be mounted in the gauge, and the gauge mounted to the car in order for the lights to work.... something about the gauge acting as a ground.

Is this correct?

Gauge lights (at least some of them) were working yesterday. Pulled the gauges to replace burned out bulbs. Now, when trying to turn on bulbs to see which ones are dead... none of them light up. Dimmer has worked in the past, and is currently cranked to the max.


Thanks for any help.

THIS IS CORRECT. BULBS WORK WHEN MOUNTED

[msampsel]

DASH LIGHTS

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the lights have to be mounted in the gauge, and the gauge mounted to the car in order for the lights to work.... something about the gauge acting as a ground.

Is this correct?

Gauge lights (at least some of them) were working yesterday. Pulled the gauges to replace burned out bulbs. Now, when trying to turn on bulbs to see which ones are dead... none of them light up. Dimmer has worked in the past, and is currently cranked to the max.


Thanks for any help.

On the old style gauges (with the flat dash), the bulbs ground to the gauge which grounds to the dash metal via the bracket.
Some who are rich and can get their dashes done with powder coat find their gauges will not ground too easy.

[Trav]

I started up the Roadster after having it sit for a good amount of time. And i quickly noticed the fuel pump area leaking gas on the driveway. So my question is... do i just buy a whole new one? Or do I throw on some new gaskets on the pump?

[Nissanman]

The pump is re-build able, definitely the cheaper option.
Have a look at the hoses, the output hose may be split/loose.

[spyder]

And check your oil for fuel dilution.

[Mainer311]

And if you buy a rebuild kit, make sure it contains the lower seal.

[Linda]

Rallye has info on the pumps, not all of which are rebuildable.
Linda