The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
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- MatFog
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2014 11:35 pm
- Location: Orinda, CA
Fuel Return Line - can't reconnect - do I need it?
I have a 1969 1600 and just replaced the fuel tank (old one was rusted through, got a better condition one on ebay).
I'm having problems reconnecting the fuel return line - its the connection on the left of the first picture below. Maybe the thread is stripped, but it looks alright. It just can't seem to catch and connect. Been messing around with this one connection for maybe 25 mins. The fuel line (one on the right that goes to the fuel pump) connects ok.
Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/a/X99Yd
Questions:
any tips or ideas on how to fix as is (make it catch)?
do I need a fuel return line at all? (there was discussion elsewhere that maybe you don't even need a fuel return line)
I'm having problems reconnecting the fuel return line - its the connection on the left of the first picture below. Maybe the thread is stripped, but it looks alright. It just can't seem to catch and connect. Been messing around with this one connection for maybe 25 mins. The fuel line (one on the right that goes to the fuel pump) connects ok.
Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/a/X99Yd
Questions:
any tips or ideas on how to fix as is (make it catch)?
do I need a fuel return line at all? (there was discussion elsewhere that maybe you don't even need a fuel return line)
- theunz
- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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- Location: Catoosa Ok.
- Model: 2000
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
MatFog, these type of fittings can be very difficult to connect. Make sure they are perfectly in line with each other. Sometimes you need to slightly bend the line to get them to align. Good luck and don't force it. Mike
Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
- svwilbur
- Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
Matfog, looking at the second picture it looks like the pipe is not sitting flat on the receiving end. maybe you need to bend the pipe a little to the right and then possibly push it to the left if it is flat against it but misaligned as a result of the bending.
with the slight amount that the end of the pipe is ajar from the receiving connector it may not want to catch. get that inner pjpe lined up and then try spinning the connector down onto it again.
with the slight amount that the end of the pipe is ajar from the receiving connector it may not want to catch. get that inner pjpe lined up and then try spinning the connector down onto it again.
Stacey Wilbur
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
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- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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Re: Fuel Return Line - can't reconnect - do I need it?
Mat, 2X that it is not lined up. It shows plainly in the first pic. When you remove a flare fitting, before it comes off, the fitting is pushed up the tube about 3/16 of an inch. before putting it back on you need to pull the fitting down so that the step inside is resting on the flare. If you have not done that the fitting is stuck on the tube and is difficult to align. Once you pull it down it will be free and will align readily.MatFog wrote:I have a 1969 1600 and just replaced the fuel tank (old one was rusted through, got a better condition one on ebay).
I'm having problems reconnecting the fuel return line - its the connection on the left of the first picture below. Maybe the thread is stripped, but it looks alright. It just can't seem to catch and connect. Been messing around with this one connection for maybe 25 mins. The fuel line (one on the right that goes to the fuel pump) connects ok.
Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/a/X99Yd
Questions:
any tips or ideas on how to fix as is (make it catch)?
do I need a fuel return line at all? (there was discussion elsewhere that maybe you don't even need a fuel return line)
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
- Mainer311
- Roadsteraholic
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- Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:30 pm
- Location: Methuen, MA, USA
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
Does anyone know how the ignition switch gets clamped into the aluminum steering column mount? I've been thinking about moving the ignition switch to the center console, and need to know how it stays in place. Does it just get clamped into the bore that it sits in?
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
- Gregs672000
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
I have my switch in the center consul (early car) as my car has never had a good switch (was always in the center consul since I got the car 30yrs ago). It is a cheap aftermarket switch installed into a remade center consul plate... not sure that helps much...
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
- Mainer311
- Roadsteraholic
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
- pebbles
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
I think one is for acc which the early cars dont have, and who uses that anyway. If you have installed an electronic ign and have bypassed the ballast resistor, you could incorporate a three prong.Mainer311 wrote:The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.
I am NOT an electrician, did i even spell it right? Lol.
Pmd on the mounting
David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
I use a Ron Francis switch in my low car. Looks stock but has accessory as well.Mainer311 wrote:The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/departments.asp?dept=5
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
- Mainer311
- Roadsteraholic
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
Thanks for the link. As I'm finding, the stock ignition spring feature is built into the lock cylinder, and once disassembled, no longer works. Looks like it'll be aftermarket after all, and much easier to mount!
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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- Roadster Fanatic
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- Location: Indianapolis area
Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
Brass in the engine block?
A little pitted along a path as well... sign of previous block repair?
It seems to obscure the water hole "circle shape" a bit.
A little pitted along a path as well... sign of previous block repair?
It seems to obscure the water hole "circle shape" a bit.
Last edited by goldbug on Sun Feb 19, 2017 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1969 SRL311 (resto project)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
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- Roadster Fanatic
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
(whoops, quoted instead of edited)
1969 SRL311 (resto project)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
- Nissanman
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
That will probably have to be ground out/removed and a proper weld repair done.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
- Mainer311
- Roadsteraholic
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
Is it safe to bypass the entire carb manifold/heater core coolant circle? I only drive the car in the spring/summer/early fall. My heater controls have never been hooked up since I bought the car, and the hoses are pretty rotten. I'm just trying to prevent a huge coolant leak.
First choice: Can I safely plug the head and water pump?
Second choice: At the very least run a hose directly from the fitting above the temp sender to the water pump nipple?
I want to leave the original nonfunctioning sender in place, fill the top hole with my Autometer sender, and then plug up the water pump nipple. See below.
First choice: Can I safely plug the head and water pump?
Second choice: At the very least run a hose directly from the fitting above the temp sender to the water pump nipple?
I want to leave the original nonfunctioning sender in place, fill the top hole with my Autometer sender, and then plug up the water pump nipple. See below.
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Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
- oppositeLock
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.
What are good locations for lifting the car with a floor jack in order to place jack stands? I'm assuming the rear diff is solid for elevating to place rear stands (correct?). Is there a good central lift point for the front?
'68 R16 + 5spd