The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[AidanDawn2000]

Anybody know the factory preset for the idle mixture screws on late style Solex 44s? I remember it being something like 1.5 or 2.5??
Thanks!

bump

[Mainer311]

No, I think that is the correct orientation.

So how do you bleed the rear brake cylinders when the bleeders are at the bottom?

[Nissanman]

Seems to work OK.

[Mainer311]

Seems to work OK.

How would you know otherwise if there was air trapped in the cylinder at the top? Doesn't make any sense to me.

[pebbles]

Seems to work OK.

How would you know otherwise if there was air trapped in the cylinder at the top? Doesn't make any sense to me.

A solid, lengthy stream of brake fluid. No spitting. Not much else can be done

[Mainer311]

Who here is running 510 rear brake shoes? Any fitment issues?

[Gregs672000]

Anybody know the factory preset for the idle mixture screws on late style Solex 44s? I remember it being something like 1.5 or 2.5??
Thanks!

bump

Every engine varies. What I suggest you do is to screw then down very lightly (DO NOT over tighten them as they are brass and deform easily), then back each one out say 2 turns and start the car and see how it idles (give it time if the engine is cold... do all adjustments on a warm engine). If it won't run keep turning each one out 1/2 turn at a time until it will. Check airflow/balance and adjust accordingly. Then, with the engine idling at about 1000 rpms, either attach a scope with a tach or listen carefully to the engine while you turn a mixture screw, noting if the RPM increase or decrease... work one at a time until you get the highest rpm, if needed re-adjust your idle back to 1000, then move on to the next screw. Recheck balance as you go along, and do a final adjustment to your idle screw so she idles about 800-1000 rpms.

Sneezing or backfiring from the carbs is an indication of a lean mix, stumbling and slow response is usually due to being too rich.

[AidanDawn2000]

Who here is running 510 rear brake shoes? Any fitment issues?

I Had to put the adjusters all the way in and then do some shaving to the ends of the shoes to get them to fit. After that though they worked great and paying $140 for the real ones is a bit ridiculous considering that they will have to be replaced often.
This is what I got http://www.datsunparts.com/2782

[devo]

Who here is running 510 rear brake shoes? Any fitment issues?

I Had to put the adjusters all the way in and then do some shaving to the ends of the shoes to get them to fit. After that though they worked great and paying $140 for the real ones is a bit ridiculous considering that they will have to be replaced often.
This is what I got http://www.datsunparts.com/2782

I'm running 510 rear shoes. I've had no fitment issues. They went right on.

[AidanDawn2000]

Anybody know the factory preset for the idle mixture screws on late style Solex 44s? I remember it being something like 1.5 or 2.5??
Thanks!

bump

Every engine varies. What I suggest you do is to screw then down very lightly (DO NOT over tighten them as they are brass and deform easily), then back each one out say 2 turns and start the car and see how it idles (give it time if the engine is cold... do all adjustments on a warm engine). If it won't run keep turning each one out 1/2 turn at a time until it will. Check airflow/balance and adjust accordingly. Then, with the engine idling at about 1000 rpms, either attach a scope with a tach or listen carefully to the engine while you turn a mixture screw, noting if the RPM increase or decrease... work one at a time until you get the highest rpm, if needed re-adjust your idle back to 1000, then move on to the next screw. Recheck balance as you go along, and do a final adjustment to your idle screw so she idles about 800-1000 rpms.

Sneezing or backfiring from the carbs is an indication of a lean mix, stumbling and slow response is usually due to being too rich.

Thanks Greg! I have an RPM function on my dwell meter so i'll give this a shot.

[Gregs672000]

bump

Every engine varies. What I suggest you do is to screw then down very lightly (DO NOT over tighten them as they are brass and deform easily), then back each one out say 2 turns and start the car and see how it idles (give it time if the engine is cold... do all adjustments on a warm engine). If it won't run keep turning each one out 1/2 turn at a time until it will. Check airflow/balance and adjust accordingly. Then, with the engine idling at about 1000 rpms, either attach a scope with a tach or listen carefully to the engine while you turn a mixture screw, noting if the RPM increase or decrease... work one at a time until you get the highest rpm, if needed re-adjust your idle back to 1000, then move on to the next screw. Recheck balance as you go along, and do a final adjustment to your idle screw so she idles about 800-1000 rpms.

Sneezing or backfiring from the carbs is an indication of a lean mix, stumbling and slow response is usually due to being too rich.

Thanks Greg! I have an RPM function on my dwell meter so i'll give this a shot.

Yes, those tend to work well for setting up carbs as you can easily see a minor change in RPM. I still pull out the ol Actron I had since age 16...

[AidanDawn2000]

I still pull out the ol Actron I had since age 16...

Haha Nice!
I got the dwell meter and a timing light for my 17th

[Pjackb]

I see a lot of cars without the two chrome bumper guards
Is this a mod or a different year bumper?

[dynaguy]

The guards are removable. Some, myself included, prefer the cleaner look without them. When I purchases the Stainless Steel repros, I specified without any holes for guards or license plate. Pat

[Pjackb]

Thanks,
To my eyes it looks 100 time better and cleaner without the guards I agree , especially with a 1500 grill