The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[MatFog]

I have a 1969 1600 and just replaced the fuel tank (old one was rusted through, got a better condition one on ebay).

I'm having problems reconnecting the fuel return line - its the connection on the left of the first picture below. Maybe the thread is stripped, but it looks alright. It just can't seem to catch and connect. Been messing around with this one connection for maybe 25 mins. The fuel line (one on the right that goes to the fuel pump) connects ok.

Here are some pics:

http://imgur.com/a/X99Yd

Questions:
any tips or ideas on how to fix as is (make it catch)?
do I need a fuel return line at all? (there was discussion elsewhere that maybe you don't even need a fuel return line)

[theunz]

MatFog, these type of fittings can be very difficult to connect. Make sure they are perfectly in line with each other. Sometimes you need to slightly bend the line to get them to align. Good luck and don't force it. Mike

[svwilbur]

Matfog, looking at the second picture it looks like the pipe is not sitting flat on the receiving end. maybe you need to bend the pipe a little to the right and then possibly push it to the left if it is flat against it but misaligned as a result of the bending.

with the slight amount that the end of the pipe is ajar from the receiving connector it may not want to catch. get that inner pjpe lined up and then try spinning the connector down onto it again.

[C.Costine]

I have a 1969 1600 and just replaced the fuel tank (old one was rusted through, got a better condition one on ebay).

I'm having problems reconnecting the fuel return line - its the connection on the left of the first picture below. Maybe the thread is stripped, but it looks alright. It just can't seem to catch and connect. Been messing around with this one connection for maybe 25 mins. The fuel line (one on the right that goes to the fuel pump) connects ok.

Here are some pics:

http://imgur.com/a/X99Yd

Questions:
any tips or ideas on how to fix as is (make it catch)?
do I need a fuel return line at all? (there was discussion elsewhere that maybe you don't even need a fuel return line)

Mat, 2X that it is not lined up. It shows plainly in the first pic. When you remove a flare fitting, before it comes off, the fitting is pushed up the tube about 3/16 of an inch. before putting it back on you need to pull the fitting down so that the step inside is resting on the flare. If you have not done that the fitting is stuck on the tube and is difficult to align. Once you pull it down it will be free and will align readily.

[Mainer311]

Does anyone know how the ignition switch gets clamped into the aluminum steering column mount? I've been thinking about moving the ignition switch to the center console, and need to know how it stays in place. Does it just get clamped into the bore that it sits in?

[Gregs672000]

I have my switch in the center consul (early car) as my car has never had a good switch (was always in the center consul since I got the car 30yrs ago). It is a cheap aftermarket switch installed into a remade center consul plate... not sure that helps much...

[Mainer311]

The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.

[pebbles]

The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.

I think one is for acc which the early cars dont have, and who uses that anyway. If you have installed an electronic ign and have bypassed the ballast resistor, you could incorporate a three prong.
I am NOT an electrician, did i even spell it right? Lol.
Pmd on the mounting

[Curtis]

The only problem I have with that is, the contacts for the later 68-70 cars have 5 contacts, and the contact arrangements are sorta weird, so wiring an aftermarket switch is what I'm leary of. The early cars were much simpler in that department.

I use a Ron Francis switch in my low car. Looks stock but has accessory as well.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/departments.asp?dept=5

[Mainer311]

Thanks for the link. As I'm finding, the stock ignition spring feature is built into the lock cylinder, and once disassembled, no longer works. Looks like it'll be aftermarket after all, and much easier to mount!

[goldbug]

Brass in the engine block?



A little pitted along a path as well... sign of previous block repair?
It seems to obscure the water hole "circle shape" a bit.

[goldbug]

(whoops, quoted instead of edited)

[Nissanman]

That will probably have to be ground out/removed and a proper weld repair done.

[Mainer311]

Is it safe to bypass the entire carb manifold/heater core coolant circle? I only drive the car in the spring/summer/early fall. My heater controls have never been hooked up since I bought the car, and the hoses are pretty rotten. I'm just trying to prevent a huge coolant leak.

First choice: Can I safely plug the head and water pump?
Second choice: At the very least run a hose directly from the fitting above the temp sender to the water pump nipple?

I want to leave the original nonfunctioning sender in place, fill the top hole with my Autometer sender, and then plug up the water pump nipple. See below.

[oppositeLock]

What are good locations for lifting the car with a floor jack in order to place jack stands? I'm assuming the rear diff is solid for elevating to place rear stands (correct?). Is there a good central lift point for the front?