The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[datseen]

Looks like my torque rod bolt closer to the front end fell off. Bushing is still in place. I've been digging around for the bolt size but couldn't find it. Can someone point me in the right direction.

[pebbles]

Looks like my torque rod bolt closer to the front end fell off. Bushing is still in place. I've been digging around for the bolt size but couldn't find it. Can someone point me in the right direction.

1/2-20 x 3 1/2.
I chose 3 1/2 because the shank was the perfect length (no threads in bearing),
To much thread protrusion however, but it can be trimmed if weight is an issue.

[datseen]

Looks like my torque rod bolt closer to the front end fell off. Bushing is still in place. I've been digging around for the bolt size but couldn't find it. Can someone point me in the right direction.

1/2-20 x 3 1/2.
I chose 3 1/2 because the shank was the perfect length (no threads in bearing),
To much thread protrusion however, but it can be trimmed if weight is an issue.

Thank you David. Before i saw your post i went to the hardware store and picked up something very similar based on the torque rod bushing drawing someone posted. I'll check the bag tomorrow and make sure it was 3 1/2 inches instead of 3. The nut was a bit tricky to get on... probably easier if the car was jacked up. I gotta get a jack.

[pebbles]

Two wheels on the sidewalk, two wheels on the street .).)

[theunz]

Sometimes we forget how much 40 or 50 years of tool collecting had simplified our lives. Mike

[tjp]

Did I read somewhere at one point that the inner door mechanicals are different between a 67 and a 67.5? Thanks

[notoptoy]

^ Yes, the door lock mechanism is different. In 67 and earlier, the lock was integrated into the inside handle. In 67.5 of there was a separate lock button on the top of the door. The inside handle also changed styles to the "cup" in 67.5

[svwilbur]

I need some help. I spent about 2 hours going through searches on here but can not find a post I know is out there. thought I bookmarked it but cant find it either.

the post I am looking for talked about all the components under the hood and what color everything should be stock from the factory.

preferably for a hi window.

stuff like
engine bay - body color

chassis - gloss black? (which are gloss or satin)
fan
fan shroud
radiator
horns
radiator overflow- gloss black
oil pan - some say black others say engine color, some prefer satin black so oil leaks show up)

harmonic balancer , crank pully ( some say engine color some say black?)

air cleaner - some say ford red is a good match

anything im missing?

any pointers to that url?

any auto store paints that are good matches for stock colors?


UPDATE:
I think I found the link I was looking for:

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... er#p198661
title was :

"painting of non body components"

it was in the "Restoration tips" area


there is also this post on
Engine bay color
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ner#p49244


and another good one:
Engine - What gets painted?
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... aint+color

[anhizer]

Anyone know what bolt size is correct for the air cleaner assembly to the SU carb? Its an "early" 1600 carb. I recently exhanged my old carbs with a rebuilt set from ztherapy and the original bolts i have (I believe they are M8x1.25) start to thread but then wont advance. I tried another set of M8-1.25 bolts and they also started to thread but got caught maybe a thread in. I'm guessing they need standard bolts (probably 5/16-18 or 5/16-24) but am not sure.

[goldbug]

Brake & clutch cylinders on the firewall: Are the mounting "bolts" coming through the firewall captive/welded (acting as studs)? I didn't see a big glob of weld near the heads on the other side, but can't say 100%.

Mine didn't seem to budge, but if I can remove them before dipping, I want to.

[goldbug]

Anyone know what bolt size is correct for the air cleaner assembly to the SU carb? Its an "early" 1600 carb. I recently exhanged my old carbs with a rebuilt set from ztherapy and the original bolts i have (I believe they are M8x1.25) start to thread but then wont advance. I tried another set of M8-1.25 bolts and they also started to thread but got caught maybe a thread in. I'm guessing they need standard bolts (probably 5/16-18 or 5/16-24) but am not sure.

When I measured mine a while ago I found them to be M8x1.25, ~15.6mm long, 12mm head, with a split washer (~15.4 mmwide, ~0.9mm thick).

[anhizer]

Thanks; that's what used to fit in there. I wonder if they made them in different thread sizes? I might email ztherapy and ask.

[Curtis]

Thanks; that's what used to fit in there. I wonder if they made them in different thread sizes? I might email ztherapy and ask.

My early carbs are SAE fine thread.

[theunz]

Brake & clutch cylinders on the firewall: Are the mounting "bolts" coming through the firewall captive/welded (acting as studs)? I didn't see a big glob of weld near the heads on the other side, but can't say 100%.

Mine didn't seem to budge, but if I can remove them before dipping, I want to.

I think they are a press fit, not 100% sure, but seems that the longer bolt for the brake cyl. brace are either knurled or slightly oversized.

[msampsel]

Thanks; that's what used to fit in there. I wonder if they made them in different thread sizes? I might email ztherapy and ask.

My early carbs are SAE fine thread.

Yes indeed my early ones is an SAE fine thread. Sometimes there is a hodgepodge of carb bodys
on an early car as my front carb is SAE fine and the rear is something else.
When in doubt I would take the carb bodies down to ACE and find the right ones for both carbs.
For me the carbs are easier to remove than the cleaner and is bolts.