The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[tjp]

I know that this info is here somewhere but I am search challenged so here it is again:

What is the outer ring of the steering wheel made of?

Thanks

Anyone?

[notoptoy]

YES, if you have an issue with idle, and not full throttle response. If it is just to get full throttle, you probably need to adjust the throttle cable length. Though typically for me, I have problems with the Dog bones not being SHORT enough - and thus why 2000 SU dog bones will not work on early 1600 SU's

[pebbles]

I know that this info is here somewhere but I am search challenged so here it is again:

What is the outer ring of the steering wheel made of?

Thanks

Anyone?

Plastic? Not sure whether its Bakelite or acrylic however.....

[andyroo]

a) didn't know they were referred to as 'high speed' adjusters - they are just the linkage between pedal and carb
b) i would have thought that the reverse would be truer
fwiw

a. High RPM is what I meant to say.
b. Gotcha.

I'm just balancing my carbs and wanted to go the right direction from the start. Idle is good and balanced, higher RPMs the rear carb is not sucking as much air.

Thanks!

[drummerdood]

Hi - Anyone here used any of those cheapo paintless dent pullers found on ebay and amazon? For 15-20 dollars, thinking I might try one on the dent pictured below.

Dent.jpg

[notoptoy]

I have not tried one of those, so no real help there. However, in general the whole idea behind a PDR is that the paint is not compromised - i.e.- cracked or chipped. So the success would be limited for a dent like what is pictured. They are not good at removing creases is my understanding.

[Mainer311]

Yeah, that's a pretty serious dent on a pre-existing bend. A cheap dent puller won't even touch that.

[drummerdood]

Good to know. Thanks!

[goldbug]

Handbrake questions:

1. (Not sure correct name:) the lever/relay mechanism that mounts under the car towards the back of the floor.... How does that normally mount? Mine was held in via 2 metal strips on each side w/ bolt+locknut in all 4 corners; The holes looked enlarged/damaged when the mechanism was removed. I would have guessed it was originally captive nuts based on the rest of the underbody, but unsure.

2. It looks like there's some sort of nylon (or hard rubber?) cup pressed into the side of the tunnel on the left side (opposite the brake lever)... is that removable/replaceable? I didn't spend much time trying to pry it out and was worried it would easily disintegrate.

[toplessdottie]

Has anyone found a magical formula for keeping our tops (both full and tonneau) clean and looking less "dull?" I'm sure staying away from petroleum based products is good for longevity... right?

[Nissanman]

Here are the bits: -

The P/N 26 is a rubber seal that protects the pivot bush from debris.
I have never seen a replacement available but that doesn't mean there isn't one.



It appears that most of the fasteners that mount the bits to the body do have captive nuts - the best kind I might add

[goldbug]

So assuming #13 in the 2nd diagram is supposed to thread into captive nuts... it looks like I'll need to weld some in after I repair the enlarged holes in the floor. Anyone know if they should be on the top side or underneath the car?

The top side makes sense from a fastener/order perspective, but honestly I might just reinforce the floor in that area and use bolts w/ nylock nuts (not captive/welded)

[cktrap]

@copterpilot
far as I know for the pre 70 the weather strip is held on by a plate that goes i nside the weather stripping (for 70 just adhesive)
Should be ok with small pan head phillips screws

I've been digging through my parts for the retainer plates for the A pillar weather weatherstripping and found the above post. Is this correct on the 70 model. It's just adhesive?
Thanks
Keith

[mraitch]

i was in error originally - it is supposed to be just adhesive on the '70, but I made some plates from stainless steel as in earlier cars 'cos I don't like to use adhesive unless absolutely necessary.

[C.Costine]

So assuming #13 in the 2nd diagram is supposed to thread into captive nuts... it looks like I'll need to weld some in after I repair the enlarged holes in the floor. Anyone know if they should be on the top side or underneath the car?

The top side makes sense from a fastener/order perspective, but honestly I might just reinforce the floor in that area and use bolts w/ nylock nuts (not captive/welded)

Yes, on my '67 they are a kind of unusual captive nut on the top side. They are solid to the floor, as opposed to the ones that are loose in a little spot welded on housing.