Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Ok... so I'm most likely taking on a project that will be a monster, but I've been draging this car around the country for 30 years and its time to "@##!" or get off the pot.

I will using every bit of information I can suck up from all the previous swaps so I hope everybody will continue to post because I'm going to read.

Here is a link and I will continue to update as the project progresses.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37264099@N08/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have ordered the motor mount set and jig from Michael and have been working on the frame.

If everything goes to plan I will have a rolling frame by summer and the body work begins.

Looks good! I like the work that you have done on the front notch in the crossmember and I see that you rebuilt the X-frame!

As for the transmission mount, use a GM transmission mount, part number 31108 G, it bolts right up to the Nissan 5-speed!



You will see images of this mount being used on the DVD that I am sending with the parts...

Michael

Nice simple rotisserie - I like the idea of adjustable height rather than just using engine stands. I suggest drilling a few holes in the vertical supports and using bolts as a safety stop, just in case the "lock-bolt" slips though.

I've only been dragging my roadsters around for 2-1/2 years, and I finally got one in the garage being disassembled.

K

kentobeanz wrote:Nice simple rotisserie - I like the idea of adjustable height rather than just using engine stands. I suggest drilling a few holes in the vertical supports and using bolts as a safety stop, just in case the "lock-bolt" slips though.

Can do thanks for the input... I would also like to install bottle jack for the height adjustment... just waiting for a good deal to come along.

Thanks

Tim

Tim,
Hopefully you can find some Roadster pals to help with your project so you don't get bogged down.
I know there are owners in your area.
Good luck!

Linda

Update... I received Michael's motor mount jig Saturday and went to work Sunday. By 4:30 I had the engine setting in the frame. The time saving from using the jig is huge. The next step is to mark and build the trans mount. When I take the motor back out I will also work on the oil filter recess.

Tim

Tim wrote:

Update... I received Michael's motor mount jig Saturday and went to work Sunday. By 4:30 I had the engine setting in the frame. The time saving from using the jig is huge.

Great work Tim! Glad to see that the JIG made things work easy for you!

Keep up the good work!

Michael

update...

The trans mount is tacked in along with the sensor cutout. The x-member will get a upper and lower support plate to insure strength.

The oil filter cutout is in.

Next is the lower radiator hose recess, Michael's alt. mount, FWD oil pan guard...

When I have the frame modification done I will start a new post to the rest of the restoration.

A couple of queries rolling around in the cavern I call my brain... what size exhaust? (this will dictate the tunnel size)... Is it possable to have a dual exhaust? exhaust hangar's? What size fuel lines? routing? Fuel tank... do I modify the original? internal or external pump? aftermarket?... on and on and on...

Tim.

Couple of quick questions...

1. Has anyone put together a checklist for the roadster swap.... something someone might use to insure they don't miss a step in the process.

2. What size exhaust is recommend for the S13 project? I have noted posts saying 2.5" or larger. My next step is to build the exhaust tunnel through the x-member, I was planning on a 3.5" hole for a 2.5" exhaust but I wanted input first.

3. Any difference with an exhaust that goes straight through the x-member as opposed to one that follows the frame curve?

P.S. I know the X-member looks a little ugly but if everything goes well it will look good with the reinforcment plates on.

Update... after being under the weather for several weeks I'm back in business. I have the finally located the turbo flange... it took me 5 tries to find the right spot. I have it tacked in place just in case.

I have the mounting flange tacked also... I will pop it off to make the exhaust port cut.

Question... how big should the port be? as big as I can get it? or no bigger than the mounting flange port?

Next is turbo intake/discharge runners and exhuast down pipe.

If anyone has input as the the best place to source the aluminum/stainless tubing it would be appreciated.

Well I've never messed with a SR20, but I have 12 years experience messing with other high HP turbo motors.

The exhaust size will depend on your HP goals and turbo size. 2.5" is the absolute smallest you would want to go. I would recommend going with a nice 3" with mandrel bend.

Your flange on the exhaust manifold should match the size of the turbo hot side. If you can port the hot side, go for it.

I have an awesome online store I get all my aluminum from. I'll find it and post it tomorrow.

I went with a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust. Bought mine in a kit from Summit. DIY stuff; aluminized steel.
Part Number: FLO-15902 Price: $85.95

Other sources are below (and lots more $$) :
Columbia River Mandrel Bending
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Burns Stainless
http://www.burnsstainless.com/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thks